How often should guitar strings be changed?

Asking when strings should be changed is a loaded question because it can be answered in many ways. However, there are a few things that will make it pretty obvious when you need to change your strings.

Note before continuing: I'm only concentrating on steel guitar strings here and not nylons. I don't use nylons so I couldn't advise on those.

Blackness

If you see blackness start happening on the unwound strings, as in the high E, B and G, that's almost always rust. And rust is bad to dig in to your finger pads.

When you see rust, change those strings out immediately.

Also, if you see black "strips" on a brand new set of strings, those are rusted and should not be used. Take them back to the shop, show them the rust if you need to, get another set and inspect them before you leave the store. Chances are if one set is rusted, a whole bunch of them are rusted.

Dents

This usually only happens on strings that are really old. It's when parts of the string start getting fret dents where you will see little "humps".

If the strings aren't rusted (or of it's a stainless steel or coated type), you technically don't have to change them, but you should because strings with dents result in nasty fret buzz.

Constantly going out-of-tune

Over time after being picked a lot, a steel string starts losing its stability and will be more difficult to keep in tune.

This is a bit of a weird one because your strings may still look good. But even if they look good, if they constantly go out-of-tune and are over a month old, it's time to change them.

Things that do NOT require your strings to be changed

Feeling sticky

Sticky-feeling strings is either the result of you not washing your hands before playing, or the guitar being in a room where dust is flying around and collects on the strings, or you're putting something on the strings that acts like dust and makes them sticky (like talcum powder/baby powder).

Nut "kink"

Some players think that the moment you hear a string make a kinking noise in the nut, the strings must be replaced.

Not true.

It is totally possible to install a brand new set of strings and hear the kinking sound at the nut. And that means the nut slots need to be cleaned out. You can clean nut slots with dental floss. If there's still kinking after that, lubricate the slots with lead shavings from a pencil.

Loss of sheen

New strings are shiny. Used strings aren't. However, your strings will go from looking shiny to being not-shiny quickly after your hands get on them, and that's just the way it is.

As long as there's no rust, no dents and the strings aren't old, no string change is required.

How soon will it snap?

In my experience, I encounter the most early string breakage from bad string sets. I don't snap strings often, but when it does happen, it's almost always from strings that are just junk.

Now when I say "junk", I'm not referring to any particular brand of string. Sometimes it just happens where you'll buy a pack of strings and they will just be bad right out of the box.

What I personally do to avoid that crapola is purposely buy strings online, because in a guitar store, you never truly know how long a pack of strings has been in the shop.

For example, you may see your brand of string that you like in the store, and the packaging looks very new. Well, those packs of strings for all you know might have been sitting in the back storeroom for over a year, and the store only opened that box last week. If you have ever had two packs of strings break really quick one right after the other (and yes that has happened to me), it's pretty much guaranteed you bought those strings from the store and they're really old - even though they looked new.

When I buy my preferred Dunlop DEN0942 strings, I get them from Amazon, and to date I've not received a bad set yet. However, for the same string I buy from my local guitar store, I've had several bad sets.

Why does Amazon deliver better sets of guitar strings? Because they constantly rotate the stock when it needs rotating. That, and if they keep getting complaints that some company working with Amazon is selling bad strings through them, Amazon cuts them right out and gets someone else that delivers proper quality merchandise.

Do I spend more on strings when buying through Amazon? No. The time and fuel cost it takes to get to my local GC, along with the fact that at times I will get a bad set of strings from them (or no strings since they have stocking issues with my particular brand choice), I actually save money when I buy from Amazon.

Why I still use RAR instead of 7z

Nerdy computer crap time.

Long ago back in the days before the modern internet when most people used 486 PCs (or maybe a PC with a Pentium if you were fancy), I used BBSes. And pretty much every BBS had a files area where you could upload or download stuff. The vast majority of that stuff was in archive files.

First it started with ZIP files, then LHA and then finally ARJ before the BBS fell out of favor with the masses once internet came around.

Even though ARJ was vastly superior compared to more or less everything else at the time, ZIP became popular again because of Windows. Specifically, it was Windows XP because that OS and every Windows since has native support to extract ZIP archive files where you can just double-click on one to open it up.

Time goes on, and two other formats start getting popular, RAR and 7-Zip or 7z for short.

RAR was never free unless you used the mobile version. 7-Zip has always been free...

...but I'm still using RAR, and I'll explain why.

7z, while the superior format that crunches data better and does it faster, suffers from a few things that make it inferior compared to WinRAR.

First, you can't preview images in a 7z file. If you have a 7z archive full of JPG images, open it up and double-click, you'll get an error in Windows that says the image can't be viewed. WinRAR on the other hand has no problem previewing images.

This has been a very longstanding complaint of 7z users, and to date, nothing has been done about it, and it's probably true nothing will be done about it.

Second is the ridiculous .001, .002, .003 file extension crapola for 7z archives split into volumes.

The way RAR does it is that when you split an archive into volumes, the file names are file.part01.rar, file.part02.rar, and so on. And the cool thing is that with all the files in the same directory, you can click on any one of them and the whole archive will be opened up.

The way 7z does it is file.7z.001, file.7z.002, and so on. And, of course, .001 is not an automatically associated extension when you install 7-Zip, so double-clicking on the file doesn't do anything. You have to know to go into 7-Zip options and set that .001 association.

All 7z archive files should end with .7z, period. But they don't. When you split, you get the numbered crap.

Third - and this is a biggie - 7z has no internal way of making a recovery record. This one takes a bit to explain.

The absolute best feature of RAR is that you can add in a recovery record that allows the archive to be repaired if the overall file(s) get corrupted. When you select the option to use a recovery record, it will increase the size of the archive by a percentage you specify (usually 1% or 2%). If at some point the archive gets damaged, it can read the recovery portion and fix it so the archive works again.

7z has no recovery record option whatsoever. The only way to do it is by creating a PAR file and then appending it to the 7z. Screw that. I mean, yeah, it works, but why bother when it's built right in to RAR?

Why bother archiving anything?

Whether you use RAR, 7-Zip or something else, there are a few good reasons to archive things.

1. It's the easiest way to put a bunch of files into a single file. Collections of photos, videos, documents, a combo of all three, whatever.
2. It's the easiest way to archive projects. For example, recording sessions usually produce a good amount of files. After making a bunch of them, your hard drive gets clogged up with these things. Putting each project in an archive and then dumping elsewhere (DVD, memory card, external drive, etc.) makes managing that stuff a whole lot easier.
3. It's the easiest way to securely store stuff. If you have sensitive documents you don't want other people seeing, stuffing them into an archive with a strong password in front of it and file encryption on top of that (which both RAR and 7z have) would be a very tough thing for someone to bust into. Not impossible, but really difficult. If there is anything you're putting in webmail or the cloud right now you consider sensitive, archive it first, choose to use a password and encrypt the file names, then upload it to the cloud.
   

There are legitimate reasons to use archive files. RAR makes it easier for me to archive stuff.

Said honestly, if 7-Zip had the ability to preview images properly, I'd probably switch to it even though it doesn't have a recovery record option. When I archive my digital camera photos, I like easy preview access from within the archive, but 7-Zip just doesn't do that. I could deal with the no-recovery-option and the stupid .001 files, but no image previews? Total deal-breaker.

Guitar case options for the Jaguar and Jazzmaster

If you just bought a Jazzmaster or Jaguar or already own one, unless you have a case with some extra vertical length, you'll notice the one you have will fit a Strat or Tele, but not the offset body guitars.

The Jag/Jazz's extra length means you have to buy a longer bag or case. If you've shopped around, you've probably noticed some fairly high prices.

Fortunately, you have a few cheaper options.

Let's examine these from cheapest to most expensive.

Option 1: Short Scale Bass Gig Bag

Example: Fender Urban Short Scale Bass Gig Bag

Not the cheapest bag because it's Fender-branded, but this fits the Jazzmaster very well. If you put a short-scale bass and the Jazzmaster side by side, you'll notice the bass is barely longer than the Jazzmaster is. How do I know this? I own a short scale Jag bass and a Jazzmaster.

This bag will absolutely fit the Jazz while at the same time won't flop around in the case since the length of a Jazz is so close to a short scale electric bass guitar.

If you put a Jaguar guitar in this case, yeah it might move around a bit, because that guitar is shorter. However, the point is that the guitar will fit in it.

Option 2: Hardshell

Example: SKB Jaguar/Jazzmaster Type Shaped Hardshell Case TSA Latch, Over-Molded Handle

The first thing you're probably wondering is, "What's a TSA latch?" There are certain locking mechanisms the TSA at the airport will and won't accept. This SKB case has the latch type that is TSA approved, so if you plan on flying and taking your guitar with you, this is the case you want.

But even if you don't plan on flying, it's still one of the best Jag/Jazz guitar cases money can buy.

No, it is not a pretty case. Not at all. But it's rugged and about $40 less than a Fender-branded case.

If you absolutely must have the true Fender look, sure, get the Fender case. But if you want something that can truly take a beating, the SKB case, while uglier, is far superior.

That's it?

For ones worth buying online, yes.

If you want something real cheap, the best thing to do is to call up your local guitar store and ask if they have a Jaguar or Jazzmaster in stock. If yes, go to the store and try the guitar in whatever gig bags they have in stock to see which fits right. When you find one that fits, buy it...

...but don't be surprised if it's not the cheapest bag in the shop, because those usually never fit the Jazz/Jag guitars. You will have to spend a little extra to get a proper-fitting bag.

Adventures with strings on a short scale bass guitar

When you watch this video, you'll say to yourself, "Hey, that's sounds pretty good!"

Yeah, it sounds good now. But to get it sounding good wasn't easy. Actually, that's not true. It was easy once what made it sound bad was figured out.

If you want a bass that always sounds right, use the Fender standard scale length

A Fender standard scale length for an electric bass guitar is 34 inches (864 millimeters).

Compared to the 6-string guitar world which has a few standard scale lengths, in the electric bass world, the Fender standard scale is the only one that matters. Why? Because it's the only one where pretty much any string sounds correct on it.

Overtone issues with short scale electric bass

The most famous short scale bass is a Hofner 500/1, a.k.a. the "Beatle Bass". And yes, there are less expensive models such as the Hofner Violin Bass in Ignition Sunburst.

Anyway, the point is that the 500/1 has a 30-inch scale length, and that very specific length is what defines a short scale electric bass guitar.

Any electric bass billed as a short scale, such as the Squier Vintage Modified Jaguar Bass SS I own, will have that 30-inch scale length.

The #1 problem with a short scale electric bass is that they have overtone issues, and unless you know what causes the overtones, it will drive you frickin' nuts.

"What overtones are you talking about?"

The specific overtone I'm talking about is when you fret a single note, and it sounds like two notes are being played at the same time, with one being slightly off key.

No matter what you do to that bass for adjustment, that overtone absolutely will not go away. You can adjust the string saddle height, change the nut, change the electronics, change the pickups, change the tuning keys, etc. Doesn't matter. That overtone will still be there.

There is a cure for it, however. And it's the last thing you would think about.

Properly balanced strings cures everything

The tension of the vast majority of bass guitar string sets is designed for the Fender standard 34-inch scale.

Unfortunately, what a lot of string makers do is that for short scale sets, they simply take a standard long scale set, shorten it, sell as a short scale set and call it a day...

...and that's where the overtone problem comes from.

What happens is that when you string up a short scale set that was originally meant for long scale, the balance goes completely out, resulting in overtones.

The solution to this problem is to buy a string set that is specifically balanced to a short scale bass instrument, and ta-da, the overtones go away.

Namely, La Bella 760FS-S. These are flatwound strings, which is my preferred bass string winding type (much easier on the fingers). The -S on the end of the model name means short scale. 760FS-M is medium (standard Fender length) and 760FS-XL is extra long scale.

And yeah, this is a set of strings that will run you $35 to $45 depending on where you get them from.

Why so expensive? Well, when you buy flatwound strings, they cost more to make, so you will spend more on them. Any decent set of flatwounds will be a minimum of $30 for a 4-string set because they are not your typical cheapo $15 roundwound set.

The La Bella set in particular is a stainless steel balanced flatwound set. That means the string will never rust, and the only time you would ever have to change them is if the string started denting. And unless you're a really hard player, it takes a very long time before that starts happening. As long as the strings are kept clean and the bass maintained properly, the 760FS-S set is easily a string that will last at least 2 to 5 years for those who play often, and 10+ years for the hobbyist player.

Tautness

There is only one problem with a balanced short scale set. Its solution to curing overtones by having greater balanced tension makes the instrument feel decidedly different when playing it because of the tautness of the string.

A properly balanced flatwound short scale string set feels tight because it's supposed to. If you want the string to be more bendy without feeling floppy, La Bella makes those too, but not in a short scale set as far as I can tell.

Ultimately, the La Bella short set, while tight-feeling, is the best option available for a short scale electric bass guitar.

Next time around, I'm going with standard Fender scale

Had I known you needed properly balanced strings on a short scale bass, I never would have bought one.

The next time I buy a bass, it's going to be a 34-inch scale. Probably a Squier or maybe a Fender bass if I can find a good used one that's in good shape, not wrecked and priced right.

A 34-inch scale bass gives me way more string choice and I should never have to worry about balance/tension issues. Or at least not worry about them too much.

Some say the Fender Precision Bass and Fender Jazz Bass are overrated. Trust me, they're not. When you want a bass that's the most hassle-free you can buy that works the way it's supposed to, you get one in Fender or Squier flavor, plug in, play and it will sound correct the first time. As long as the thing plays comfortably and sounds proper, that's all anyone wants out of a bass.

How cheap can you go to get almost every classic Fender design?

A big decision concerning guitar buying is how a guitar looks. Does it influence my guitar purchases? You bet it does. The finish color matters to me as does the logo treatment.

On my Squier Vintage Modified Jazzmaster for example, that guitar just looks expensive, and even the headstock logo was done correct with the "swooshes" on either side of the logo.

My list is based on the following criteria. Each must:

1. ...look like something that would have been made in the 1950's or 1960's.
2. ...be under $500 USD.
3. ...be instantly recognized as a classic design.

There are 5 affordable designs people can instantly recognize, given the right color combination:

• Stratocaster
• Telecaster
• Jaguar
• Mustang
• Jazz Bass

Jazzmaster is excluded because it's the Jaguar people know. I play a Jazz personally, but I know that non-musician people wouldn't recognize it as "that guitar that Kurt Cobain played", arguably the only reason anyone even recognizes a Jaguar or Mustang to begin with.

Precision Bass is excluded because the most classic P-Bass look, which is sunburst with maple fretboard, is something only Fender makes, and it's over $500 USD.

Let's begin.

Stratocaster: Squier Classic Vibe Stratocaster 60s - Candy Apple Red

I'm not particular to the CAR finish on a Strat body, but when it comes to getting the classic Fender Strat look of the 60's, this guitar totally nails it. Even the most non-musician you know would recognize this shape in this color.

A very close runner-up is the Squier CV Strat 50s in Sunburst, as it totally looks like a vintage instrument. However, you may be put off by the fact it has a 1-ply pick guard (no black outline), which is how they did make them in the 50's. If you can get past that, that guitar truly has a classic vibe to it.

Telecaster: Squier Classic Vibe Telecaster 50s - Butterscotch Blonde

It has been said many times by many players that this is the best guitar Squier makes. And it just might be. This guitar absolutely captures everything about what a classic Telecaster is supposed to be and goes far beyond just the way it looks, as many seasoned players on a blind test mistake this guitar as an expensive Fender model.

This is a can't-go-wrong Tele. Butterscotch Blonde finish, maple fretboard, oval button style tuners, brass saddles and black pick guard totally complete the classic look.

Jaguar: Squier Vintage Modified Jaguar - 3-Tone Sunburst

Non-musicians recognize this shape as "the guitar Kurt Cobain played" as far as how it looks. When you want to get a recognizable Jag for cheap, you get the Squier version and specifically get the 3-tone burst finish to complete the look.

Mustang: Squier Vintage Modified Mustang - Sonic Blue

I'm going to be totally honest here. I don't like this guitar, and that's for two reasons. First, the tuner buttons are a white plastic. But even if I could deal with that, I never liked the Mustang pickup switches (which are above the pickups).

However, this is again a "guitar that looks like one Kurt Cobain played." When you compare the Squier version to the actual Cobain Mustang model, you'll see it's very close in the way it looks, which is what counts here.

One could get a Cobain-like Mustang out of a Squier just by getting a red tortoise shell Mustang pick guard that can fit a humbucker, dumping in a black Seymour Duncan JB bridge humbucker (which is what the Kobain model uses), and you've basically got it while still staying well under $500 USD.

Jazz Bass: Squier Vintage Modified Jazz Bass - 3-Tone Sunburst

This won't necessarily be recognized by non-musicians, but bass players will recognize it instantly. A Jazz Bass in 3-Tone burst with the tortoise shell pick guard is something a lot of famous bassists have used for a very long time.

How much for it all?

Before taxes, about $1,650 for all five guitars at the time I write this. With taxes, somewhere between $1,700 to $1,780 depending on where you live.

And yeah, this is where you really start to see the value of Squier. Four 6-string guitars and one 4-string bass, two of which are premium grade (for Squier) and three mid-grade, for less than the price of one Fender American Deluxe Stratocaster.

Remember, with the exception of the P-Bass not included, you've got all the classic Fender designs in all the most-known looks that non-musicians can recognize. Furthermore, Classic Vibe and Vintage Modified series are darned good guitars.

Do you need all these guitars?

Of course not. The point of this was just to see how much it would cost to get almost every classic Fender design, and now you know how much that is.

"I know a cheaper brand..."

You probably do, but I guarantee you that it doesn't match the headstock look. The body can be copied, but when it comes to the headstock, that's where the cheaper brands just don't match up. When you want Fender design for cheap, you go Squier and there's just no way around that.

"I can get China copies for cheaper..."

You probably can, but those guitars are absolutely awful. It's not worth it, and you run the risk of having the guitar seized at the border on shipment into the US - where by the way you lose all the cash you spent and don't get it back. Again, not worth it.