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When guitar effect pedals get too complicated

Tue 2019 Aug 13

Sometimes the simpler pedals are just better.

Take the BOSS DD-200 delay pedal. It's big, and has 7 knobs and 2 buttons on the front.

This thing has 32-bit AD/DA with 32-bit float processing and a 96kHz sampling rate. It also has 12 modes, a phrase looper that records up to 60 seconds (meaning yes it can do double duty as a looper), has full MIDI I/O with mini TRS jacks, a micro USB jack for firmware updates...

...and can even run on just three AAA batteries, which I think is a nice touch because 9V batteries suck.

This is a crazy do-everything delay pedal. Every single thing you ever wanted a delay pedal to do plus things you didn't even know one could do are in this pedal.

But holy crap is this thing complicated. Powerful, yes, but complicated.

But then there's the "Waza Craft" reissue DM-2w.

DM-2w Delay is a reissue of the famous original DM-2 from 1984. It's 100% analog. It has the original 20 to 300ms delay time, but also has a custom mode for up to 800ms. It does accept an expression pedal for delay time via foot control. There's not much else to it.

Given the choice between the DD-200 and the DM-2w, my choice would be the DM-2w.

While the DD-200 has everything and the kitchen sink, the DM-2w would be more fun to use.

Granted, the DM-2w is nowhere near as clear and clean as the DD-200 is. Not by a long shot. But in the end, the simpler DM-2w with its quirky simpler nature is more fun.

On a final note, I'm not saying the DD-200 is bad, because it isn't. It's actually awesome. You can do a whole lot with that pedal and get some insane delay tones out of it. But again, the fun factor point goes to the DM-2w for me.

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Jackson almost has a winner with the Dominion DX2

Thu 2019 Aug 8

This is closer to being the Dominion that needs to exist, but not quite.

I said back in 2018 that Jackson has this cool curvy Dominion guitar, and that they really needed to release a sub-$500 version of it.

Why did I say that? Because it's one of the best guitars Jackson has that's unique to the brand, and a more affordable version would put this axe in the hands of more players.

The price for a DX2 from Guitar Center at the moment is not $500. But it is less in price compared to the similar 2018 model, so that's at least a little good news.

This guitar could have been $499. If the DiMarzio pickups were dropped for plain Jackson-branded, and the quartersawn neck was dropped for bolt-on plainsawn, it could be that price.

Yeah, I know this is a "signature" guitar. Whatever. Don't care. What I see is something from Jackson that's not a Dinky, King V or Soloist that's unique and cool... but priced too high for younger players to afford.

Why do I think this is such a great axe from Jackson?

It's a 24.75" scale hardtail like a Les Paul but with a 12"-to-16" compound radius fingerboard, a full 4-knob electronics layout, simple 3-way switching, a neck with a silky smooth satin rear finishing, and a body with a contour cut on the rear for extra comfort.

In other words, a really good combination of things many players, myself included, would like.

The Dominion is genuinely a good guitar.

Or it would be, if it were more affordable.

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The weird Starcaster - Squier Contemporary Active

Tue 2019 Aug 6

Yeah, this is where things get weird.

Okay. So first there was the Squier Classic Vibe Starcaster. Very nice.

Then came the Squier Affinity Starcaster. Still nice, and very good that you can get a semi-hollow body electric at the price it sells for.

Now there's the Squier Contemporary Active Starcaster.

Not sure how to feel about this one.

Yes, it is still a semi-hollow body, but it's sealed. This makes the guitar look almost too plain. Clean and streamlined, to be sure, but still a bit plain.

I do dig the fact the headstock stripe is color-matched to the body color. This is the only Starcaster that does this.

It does look upscale... except when you get to the headstock and see that cheap string tree. But I guess that's not too bad.

The truss rod is dual-action. That's a plus, and a big one.

The neck has a 12-inch fingerboard radius. Also a big plus.

While it does have active electronics, it's not required to play in active mode all the time. It can be run all-passive too, and that's good.

The chrome is actually black chrome. I do dig that.

The body is bound, but done in a weird way. Almost like the binding is too thin.

Ultimately, what we've got here is The Starcaster Where No Starcaster Has Gone Before. This is the first time I've seen such a radical redesign on this particular Fender shape.

Does it work? Yes, it works. But it's definitely an acquired taste.

I do appreciate that Squier did such a daring thing with the Starcaster. It's nice they pushed the envelope with this one. But time will tell whether players will warm up to it or not.

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Squier Classic Vibe Starcaster vs. Affinity Starcaster

Thu 2019 Aug 1

It's half the guitar but still a great deal on a semi-hollow body electric.

To begin, yes the Starcaster has made a return as a Squier.

There is the "full" Starcaster in Classic Vibe flavor, and the Affinity flavor.

The Classic Vibe is more expensive than the Affinity. CV has chrome cover pickups, body binding, pick guard, four controls instead of just two and vintage style slotted tuners instead of sealed.

There are two things the Affinity model of the Starcaster has over the Classic Vibe.

First is the headstock treatment. Some people really don't like the black stripe. The Affinity eliminates that stripe.

Second is the fact you get a semi-hollow with dual humbuckers for such a low price.

The Affinity Starcaster is a 2019 semi-hollow electric selling new at a 2010 price. That's actually quite impressive.

Whether you go Classic Vibe or Affinity, both of these are very decent semi-hollow electrics for what they sell for.

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How to update ZOOM R8 firmware

Mon 2019 Jul 29

I had someone message me about this recently so I decided to put an article together since the process may be unfamiliar to some.

Disclaimer

Follow these instructions to update your ZOOM R8 at your own risk. I won't be held responsible if you lose all your data.

Step 1. BACK UP YOUR MEMORY CARD FIRST

The R8 erases the memory card during the update, so you have to back it up first.

Take out the memory card from the R8.

Plug it in to a PC or laptop.

Copy all the contents of the card somewhere on your computer where you will remember it.

REPEAT: COPY ALL THE CONTENTS. AS IN THE WHOLE CARD. ALL OF IT. If you don't, YOU WILL LOSE ALL YOUR PROJECT FILES.

The card will contain a folder called ZOOM_R8, and within that 3 more folders LOOP, PROJECT and SYS. This is where all your stuff is.

Depending on how many projects you have on your memory card, it may take a long time to copy it all locally to a backup folder on your computer. This is normal.

When copying the card to a local backup location on your computer, DO NOT MULTITASK. Don't use your web browser. Don't run any other programs. Don't let your screen "sleep". Let the copy happen without any interruptions to make sure everything is copied over with no file corruption.

It is suggested, although not required, to make two copies of the memory card.

Step 2. Download the firmware update

Go to the ZOOM web site and download the latest firmware update for the R8 model. It will be a ZIP file.

Step 3. Open the ZIP and extract the firmware file

Windows natively supports ZIP files. Double-click the downloaded file ZIP to open it.

The first thing you will see in the ZIP is a folder. Double-click to enter it.

In this folder will be 3 files. The only one you want is R8SYS.BIN.

Copy R8SYS.BIN to a place where you will remember it.

Step 4. Put your R8's SD card in your computer and copy over the BIN file

When you insert the SD card to your computer, it will be automatically assigned a drive letter. Usually it will be E, but it may be something else like F or G, whatever drive letter is available first to Windows.

Copy R8SYS.BIN to the root of the SD card, which means "not in a folder". If for example the SD card is assigned to drive letter E, copy R8SYS.BIN directly to E.

Step 5. DID YOU BACK UP YOUR MEMORY CARD FIRST?

I hope you did, because in the next steps you're about to erase it.

Confused? Read step 1 again.

Step 6. Remove SD card from the computer and put it back into the R8

Self-explanatory.

Step 7. Connect USB power to the R8

Don't perform this update on battery power. Use USB. You can use a USB cable plugged directly to your computer if you don't have anything that plugs into the wall.

Step 8. While holding PLAY, power on the R8

Press the LEFT ARROW KEY on the R8 to highlight OK.

Press ENTER on the R8 to continue.

Wait. The upgrade process takes 1 to 2 minutes to complete.

Step 9. Power off the R8 when safe to do so, wait 10 seconds, power back on

You will see the splash screen with the updated firmware version momentarily, then the R8 will bring you to the main project screen.

...but as you will notice, all projects that were on the memory card are gone.

You did remember to back up your project files first like I told you, RIGHT?

If you didn't, this tutorial is over and it sucks to be you because you didn't follow directions!

If you did, good! Proceed to the next step.

Step 10. Prepare to copy back all your project files to your SD card

Take the SD card out of the R8 and put it into your computer.

Delete all files on the SD card. Yes, it's OK to do this. STOP. Read what I just said again. I said delete the files on the SD card. I did not say "delete your copied backup files". Don't be stupid by deleting the backup. You're just clearing the card to copy over your backup data.

Step 11. Copy back all your project files to the SD card

Copy the backup you made earlier to the SD card. It should be a folder called ZOOM_R8, with the three subfolders LOOP, PROJECT and SYS.

When copying your data, DO NOT MULTITASK. Don't use your web browser or anything else while the copy is taking place to ensure no files copy over incorrectly.

When the file copy is finished, proceed to the next step.

Step 12. Put the SD card back in the R8

Self-explanatory.

Step 13. Power on the R8

Your R8 should now be exactly the way that it was with all your project files ready-to-use.

"Is this process the same for replacing the SD memory card in my R8?"

Yes.

If the SD memory card in your R8 is over 3 years old or you just want to bump up to something with more memory capacity, this is how you go about it:

Get a new memory card. The R8 supports up to 32GB. Anything bigger than that won't work. You can use SD or a microSD within an SD adapter. You do not need "ultra high speed" or "extreme" cards because this is only audio and not video files. A 5-pack of 32GB cards will ensure that you don't have to buy more cards for a good long time.

Put a new card into the R8 and format it using the R8 directly.

After that, follow steps 1, 11 and 12. That's it. The only difference is that instead of copying your project files to your old card, copy them to the new one, put in the R8, boot, done.

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