Schecter E-1 is still the coolest Explorer style guitar there is
If you're going to get an Explorer style guitar, this is the only one worth getting.
I've talked about the E-1 before from Schecter, and while there are other styles (such as Black Pearl which looks incredible), another is Natural Satin for ultra-smooth comfort.
Some guys like "woody" guitars, and the go-to finish for that look is sunburst. But then there are those that prefer an all-woody look with no paint. An example of this is the Fender Classic Series '70s Stratocaster. I personally don't like that guitar because it looks too much like a coffee table (and yes, I did in fact play one in person, it really does look like a coffee table).
Schecter does all-woody right with the E-1 in Natural Satin. Very nice grain line with all hardware being black, which in this application works.
It was also very smart of Schecter to use block inlays on the fretboard, as it complements the pole pieces of the pickups nicely. But then it goes right back to black at the headstock with all-black tuner hardware - which was also smart.
The satin finishing was also a very smart move. For the Fender I mentioned above, part of the reason it looks so much like a coffee table is because of the gloss finish. Satin finishing has a muted semi-gloss appearance, which on all-woody guitars really works well.
I firmly believe the E-1 is the best Explorer style guitar that exists. And yes, it's better than a Gibson Explorer. Looks better, sounds better, performs better. You're truly getting something genuinely good with the E-1.
I hope Schecter continues to make the E-1 for a good long time. Everything about it is correct where an Explorer style axe is concerned. Right look, right hardware, right everything.
Are headless guitars any good?
Actually, yes, they are.
For the longest time, headless guitars have been expensive just because they have a nonstandard build. After all, it's not "just another Strat".
However, as of recent, they've become quite affordable while still giving you a guitar that plays and sounds great.
Why go headless?
The simple answer to this is ergonomics.
Many headless guitars have a nonstandard shape designed to be ultra-comfortable during play seated or standing.
Obviously, neck dive never happens with a headless guitar.
Tuning with the picking hand may seem odd at first, but it is actually faster, easier and more precise compared to tuning at the headstock. Strings tuned at the bridge are absolutely as straight as possible, and because the nut isn't there, string binding basically doesn't happen.
Also, let's not forget that headless has the easiest access to the truss rod. Just look at the photo above. It doesn't get any easier.
Should you go headless?
If you find that every guitar you play has something about it that is "a little off" and just doesn't feel right, a headless guitar like the one above will probably feel correct. There will be nothing "cutting" into your body, the neck never dives, and you never have to reach far to make adjustments during play.
And fortunately, getting one of these is cheap where not-so long ago it was well over 4 figures to get one. So if you want to try out an ergonomic axe, go get it.
Simple easy fix to a common guitar looper problem
The cost for this fix is exactly $0.00.
A problem with all loopers for guitar players be it a Ditto, DigiTech JamMan, BOSS RC-3 or otherwise is that when you record a loop, play it back and then attempt to play a lead over it, it's too loud.
There are two ways to fix this. One does not work and one does.
Easy way that does not work
If your looper has a volume control, you record your loop, then turn down the volume control. But then you end up with something that doesn't sound natural, so this solution really isn't a solution.
Easy way that DOES work
Turn down the tone control on your guitar.
Seriously, that is all you need to do.
Where this method does not work is for metal music since distorted guitar has a "flat" volume where using the tone knob makes little difference in overall volume to the ear...
...but then again, looping with metal riffs doesn't work anyway because that specific guitar sound was never suited for it. Everything else is, but metal is not.
The only way you can loop with metal (sort of?) is by stereo separating the channel. As in rhythm riff on the left, lead riff on the right. Most looper pedals don't do that. Yes, the stereo looper exists, but it's more trouble than its worth because you would probably have an easier time simply multitracking your riffs in software and panning instead.
Line 6 Updater actually works really well
I just updated firmware on a guitar amp for the first time ever, and it actually went very well.
The guitar amp I own is a Line 6 Spider V 60. Line 6 as a company is pretty good about releasing firmware updates for both their software and electronics products, so I decided to go ahead and download the Line 6 Updater from their software page and give it a go.
Before I get into that, I am ordinarily the type of person who sincerely believes in, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." This means if for anything electronic, if it for whatever it is (phone, computer, software, etc.) works just fine, don't screw with it.
This is a little different however in that when you update a Line 6 Spider amp, you sometimes get added features you didn't have before. For the v1.05 update on the Spider V 60 amp, the factory patches have been improved, and you get a new "Phones Mode" global setting that now allows the headphones jack to act either for headphones or a stereo line out. This in effect gives the Spider V 60 amp a new way to output direct-to-mixer whereas it didn't have this feature before, totally for free...
...so I said okay, let's do this.
I downloaded the Line 6 Updater software and ran the firmware update. It took about 2 minutes for everything to complete, but it did work on the first try with no screw-ups.
I can now say confidently that yes, Line 6 Updater actually does what it's supposed to do and actually works.
Color me surprised.
How it's done
Line 6 did make this really easy.
Connect the amp via USB to your computer. No software drivers should be needed. However, if you do need the drivers, you can get those and install first from the Line 6 software page.
Run the Updater installer.
You will be prompted at some point to create a Line 6 account. This is free, and optional. I went ahead and did it.
Look for the latest update to your Spider amp and click on that.
The software will tell you what firmware you have installed on the amp right now. If it's a number lower than the latest version, then install the latest version.
That's basically it. Just let the software do its thing and leave the amp on and running until all is completed.
Casio W59 is better than Casio F-91W
Bigger buttons = better watch. At least when comparing the W59 to the F-91W.
For small-wristed folk such as myself that prefer smaller digital timepieces, the go-to brand is Casio for that sort of thing. And the go-to watch in that brand is, of course, the F-91W.
However, as good as the F-91W is for a simple and good wristwatch, what works against it are its buttons. They work, but can be annoying to press as they are just a smidgen too small.
Choices of other Casio models that have the same functionality as the F-91W that have bigger buttons are the W800H, the F105W, and the one I'm talking about that I just bought, the W59.
Here's the thing about each of the three models and why I feel the W59 is the best of the lot.
W800H: Nothing wrong with this watch at all. It's the strap. Too long. For larger-wristed folk, this is the ideal good cheap Casio digital because it has everything you'd want from an F-91W with a larger case, and in addition shows the full date with year on the main display. I would own one of these myself were it not for that long strap.
F105W: I own this one and it's about the same size as the W59, but my complaint is that the color of the LCD is a gray that's slightly darker, most likely to accommodate it's "electroluminescent" backlight. It does have bigger buttons compared to the F-91W, but that slightly darker display annoys me.
And then there's the W59.
When you want an F-91W with bigger buttons that are easier to press, this watch nails it. Slim profile, ultra lightweight case, proper beep tone that can be heard easily, and you get slightly better water resistance at 50M instead of the F-91W's 30M. That doesn't count for much, but hey, it has it.
There's also something else about the W59 as well. Style. This model carries the same late-1980s look as the F-91W does with its blue border and red text on the display. Also, the W59 strap actually looks better because it has that cooler looking textures to it.
Where legibility is concerned, W59 is really good. Because it has the older style night light, the LCD color is a lighter shade of gray that makes for great contrast. Very easy to read the time, just like the F-91W.
After wearing the W59, I do consider it better than the F-91W. Same functionality, same great legibility, same great reliability, bigger buttons. Works great.