Fender Wide Range Humbucker info
Some confusion exists about this pickup, so here is some general information to clear the air.
There is a particular dual coil pickup available in certain guitar models from Fender and Squier called the Fender Wide Range Humbucker (WRHB for short), of which there are bridge and neck versions for their respective positions when installed in the guitar.
Six guitar models have this pickup, all Telecasters (as it is a Telecaster-only thing):
- Fender Classic Series '72 Telecaster Custom
- Fender Classic Series '72 Telecaster Deluxe
- Fender Classic Series '72 Telecaster Thinline
- Squier Vintage Modified Telecaster Custom
- Squier Vintage Modified Telecaster Deluxe
- Squier Vintage Modified '72 Telecaster Thinline
For these guitars, "custom" is solid-body with single + humbucker pickup configuration, "deluxe" is solid-body with two humbuckers, and "thinline" is a semi-hollow body construction with the "F" hole and two humbuckers.
I personally own the Squier VM '72 Thinline.
Quick history on the WRHB and where it stands now
The original WRHB pickup used CuNiFe (copper, nickel, iron) magnet pieces, and the end result was a dual coil pickup that basically sounded like a single-coil. Fender even used 1M potentiometers just like in the Jazzmaster and Jaguar to make them even brighter. As such, original WRHBs are sometimes referred to as having a "big single-coil" sound for this reason.
WRHB was not used much in Fender's lineup. It was a pickup that disappeared almost as fast as it was introduced.
Only one company in the world, Telenator, made reissues of the original WRHB using the CuNiFe magnet pieces, but they shut down. Why? Sourcing issues. Getting those CuNiFe magnet pieces is difficult and very costly. The pickup was also made for a very niche market, meaning you really had to know what a WRHB was all about and be willing to spend the big cash on it since it was such a boutique pickup.
The modern Fender-made WRHB is absolutely not the same as the original. Night and day difference. Different magnets are used with different pots, resulting in a totally different tone.
Those who are familiarized with the original '72 WRHB will not like the modern version because it won't sound like what they're used to. That doesn't make the modern pickup bad. It's just different.
What is the WRHB like these days?
To my ear, the modern WRHB sounds like a "vintage voiced" AlNiCo II humbucker - which is just fine, because high-output humbuckers are muddy garbage with very weak treble response.
Do I know for a fact that the modern WRHB uses AlNiCo II magnets? No, I don't. Nobody seems to know. There's a lot of talk about this pickup but no solid answers. This is why I say "to my ear", because regular high-output humbuckers are muddy messes while the WRHB is definitely not - which is to its benefit. It has a lower output, greater treble response and a nice midrange to it.
What did the multimeter say?
I measured the output of each pickup myself. The bridge side DCR (DC Resistance) measured 8.1K, and the neck side 7.8K.
What does this mean? It means the modern WRHB has a DCR consistent with most humbuckers that are "vintage voiced".
The WRHBs are very close in DCR to the Seymour Duncan Pearly Gates bridge and neck pickups. That doesn't mean they're any better nor worse. It just means the DCR is very similar.
What are the main differences between the Fender and Squier Telecasters with the WRHBs in them?
The Fenders all have the '70s-specific 3-bolt neck joint with micro adjustment at the rear plate pointed tip, along with "bullet" truss rod cover, and '70s-specific "F" slotted tuners. Solid-body is made from alder, semi-hollow is made from ash.
The Squiers have a more traditional 4-bolt neck joint with no micro adjustment, normal truss rod adjustment, and oval slotted tuners. Solid-body is made from basswood, semi-hollow is made from ash.
On both Fender and Squier, Custom and Deluxe models use 4-knob controls with skirted amp knobs and an upper bout toggle switch, and Thinline uses a 2-knob control layout with blade selector.
On both Fender and Squier, Custom and Thinline use the traditional slab Telecaster body shape, while Deluxe has a contour cut in the rear like a Stratocaster.
What's the best version?
That I can't say because it depends on personal preference. But I'll tell you why I personally bought the Squier VM Thinline Tele.
The Squier Thinline ticks a lot of boxes for me. It has the oval slotted tuners (which are just as good as Fender versions,) the semi-hollow construction is lighter in weight which I like, and I prefer the simpler 2-knob + blade over the 4-knob + toggle of the other models.
In addition, there's no difference with neck finish from Squier to Fender for these particular models. All of them have necks finished in gloss urethane - which is period-correct for '72. Usually with Fender all-maple necks you get gloss on the front and satin urethane finishing on the back, but for these it's all gloss all around.
However, I will totally admit that visually, the Fender looks better. And it's all because of that bullet truss rod cover. That just looks cool - particularly on the Fender Deluxe model shown at top. That's the kind of thing that brings a smile to your face when you see it. No, it doesn't enhance playability whatsoever. It's just cool.
In the end, whether you get a Fender or Squier in solid or semi-hollow form with the WRHB pickups, what you're getting is a guitar with familiar Fender feel along with vintage voicing. If you have a guitar now with humbuckers where the tone is too hot and muddy to be usable, getting one of the Telecasters listed above will make you a happy dude.
What is the best Fender signature guitar?
There are 29 of these guitars that Fender offers currently. Which is the best one? Let's find out.
To note, what I'm talking about specifically are Fender Artist guitars. These are guitars named after particular famous guitar players designed to the artist's specifications, or to what Fender believes best represents the artist.
I'm specifically concentrating on the electric guitars, as there are Artist models for the electric bass and acoustic guitar. I'm also concentrating on in-production models, meaning not special run models from the Fender Custom Shop.
Of the 29 electric guitars in the Artist series lineup as of April 2018, there are models for Stratocaster, Telecaster, Jaguar and Jazzmaster. No Artist models for the Mustang nor Duo-Sonic are made at present.
These are all 29 models in alphabetical order, and I'll tell you my favorite of the bunch after the list:
- Brad Paisley Road Worn Telecaster
- Buddy Guy Standard Stratocaster
- Chris Shiflett Telecaster Deluxe
- Dave Murray Stratocaster
- Eric Clapton Stratocaster
- Eric Johnson Signature Stratocaster Thinline
- Eric Johnson Stratocaster Maple
- Eric Johnson Stratocaster Rosewood
- EOB Sustainer Stratocaster
- George Harrison Telecaster
- James Burton Telecaster
- Jeff Beck Stratocaster
- Jim Adkins JA-90 Telecaster Thinline
- Jimi Hendrix Monterey Stratocaster
- Jimi Hendrix Stratocaster
- Jimmie Vaughan Tex-Mex Strat
- Jim Root Jazzmaster
- Jim Root Stratocaster
- Jim Root Telecaster
- Johnny Marr Jaguar
- Kurt Cobain Jaguar
- Kurt Cobain Jaguar Left-Hand
- Richie Kotzen Telecaster
- Ritchie Blackmore Stratocaster
- Robert Cray Stratocaster
- Stevie Ray Vaughan Stratocaster
- The Edge Strat
- Troy Van Leeuwen Jazzmaster
- Yngwie Malmsteen Stratocaster
Rich's pick: Eric Johnson Stratocaster Rosewood
While true I'm not a Strat guy, I have to pick this one as the best Artist model from Fender for one simple reason. It is the best player's guitar.
The best parts about this guitar are things you don't immediately notice. It has a 12-inch fingerboard radius instead of 9.5 for easier note bending without fretting out. It has no string trees because of the compensated tuner posts. The neck uses quartersawn maple instead of flatsawn, which is a stiffer board that handles humidity shifts much easier (meaning you won't have to adjust the truss rod as often).
Out of all the signature guitars Fender makes in regular production runs, this is the one where you get the most for the money as it is designed to be played and not hung on a wall to look pretty. Other Artist guitars really don't give you any significant advantage over non-Artist models, but this one does.
The closest equivalent to the EJ Rosewood is the American Elite Stratocaster. That guitar is about the same price as the EJ, has a 9.5-to-14 inch compound radius fingerboard, but is also more modernized than the EJ is with the 2-post bridge, noiseless pickups, a different neck shape, and there's a string tree present among other things. Not a bad guitar by any means, but different.
Personally, I would get the EJ. I dig the look, and the changes made to it over a regular Strat genuinely improve the playability of the guitar without wrecking tradition.
If you want the best Artist signature guitar Fender makes, the Eric Johnson Strat is it. Rosewood or maple, your choice. I picked the rosewood because I think it looks better.
Rich's other picks
The EJ Strat Rosewood is #1, but these are also really good:
- Eric Clapton Stratocaster - One of the earlier Artist model guitars from Fender that's still being made today. It's a bit on the "techy" side, but then again it always was an advanced type of Strat with modernized electronics. Still a good guitar today.
- Jim Adkins JA-90 Telecaster Thinline - A very "growly" Telecaster with P90s in it, along with lightweight semi-hollow body construction. It's a bit Gibson-esque (you'll understand why when you see it), but still good.
- Johnny Marr Jaguar - Arguably the best Jag Fender has made since the original in '62. It has changes to it that totally make sense to make it a better player's guitar. Very good if you can get your hands on one.
The worst watch straps for summer
Most people pick the totally wrong type of watch strap for summer wear.
I live in Florida, and it gets hot here. At the time I write this in April 2018, it already feels like Summer even though Spring isn't over yet. Summer technically doesn't start until June 21 this year.
I've already had to switch over to a warmer-weather-friendly watch I own, the Casio G-SHOCK DW9052V-1CR.
I'll explain why it's a really good summer watch, but before I get into that, let's list off the worst first.
The worst watch straps for summer
Leather
Whether it's real or fake leather, this is a sweat magnet. The outside of the strap heats up real easy, and since the material doesn't breathe at all, sweat happens even when the sun isn't directly shining on it.
Suede
This is one of those materials that sounds nice but in practice is terrible. Suede reacts terribly to moisture, so of course it's a terrible strap material for summer. True, it's softer and will wick sweat quicker, but that also makes it stink quicker. And have you ever tried cleaning suede? Not fun.
"Solid" resin
This is in reference to any resin strap where the only holes present are for sizing at the buckle post. All resin straps of this kind regardless of watch price act similar to leather. The strap will heat up and sweat collects underneath because it's a material that doesn't breathe.
Non-ratcheting metal bracelet
A ratcheting metal bracelet similar to the Rolex Glidelock (I'll talk about this more in a moment) is one you can adjust on-the-fly without tools of any kind, where you can adjust size with a few ratchet clicks.
The vast majority or wristwatches with metal bracelets aren't like this, so what happens is that unless you wear a bracelet loose, the wrist expands in the warmer weather and the sweat makes the metal stick to the skin. Yes, it can be easily cleaned off, but the fit is terrible.
The best watch straps for summer
1. NATO
Dirt cheap, easily available and breathes well.
2. Thick nylon
My G-SHOCK as mentioned above has this, and another Casio I own also has it, the SGW100B-3V. Not a G-SHOCK but still a very good watch with 200m water resistance.
3. Ratcheting metal bracelet
This search will show you the ratcheting bracelets available that work similar to Rolex Glidelock. If you own a Seiko SKX007, SKX009 or SKX011, you're in luck because ratcheting metal bracelets are readily available that are direct-fit replacements from that search.
It's not a cheap bracelet as they start at around 60 bucks, but it is the best possible upgrade you can put on a Seiko diver, as the weakest point of the watch is the bracelet.
4. "Breathable" resin or silicone
This basically means a rubber/resin/silicone strap with perforations so sweat collects less. See perforated watch straps.
These are cheap straps with a lot of holes in them, and yes it really does work well to combat summer heat.
Rich's pick: Thick nylon
Diver watches are usually over 100g in weight, so I don't really like wearing them. NATO I can do on a few timepieces I own, but I don't like the extra bulk of that strap...
...which leaves the thick nylon. And that's fine because Casio does actually make a well-made thick nylon strap for the DW9052V and SGW100B-3V models I own.
As an example of how good these straps are, this day I wrote this it was very humid and the air was super thick. No way could I put on a metal bracelet watch without it sticking to the wrist from sweat moisture, so that wasn't happening. I strapped on the DW9052V. At one point of the day the air was so thick that the normal size for the strap I use was actually making the watch stick to the wrist too much, so I loosened the strap one notch, and the watch was comfortable to wear. Later on when the humidity went down, I was able to tighten it back to the normal size. No problem.
The thick nylon strap handled the sweat with ease, and also rinsed off super easy too in the sink afterward since it's a G-SHOCK that can obviously get wet and handle it.
For me, the best summer watch is the G-SHOCK with thick nylon strap. It is the one material that's actually breathable, wicks sweat properly and washes clean without issue...
...but that's not to say the other choices of NATO, ratcheting metal bracelet or breathable silicone are bad. I just prefer the thick nylon.
How to add guitar volume knob tension the easy way
Regardless of what electric guitar you own, sometimes loose knobs happen, and this is the easy way to fix that.
When I say "loose knob", I'm not talking about the nut that holds the potentiometer in place, as the fix for that is to simply tighten the nut. Rather, I'm talking about when the turning tension has very little resistance where you need to add tension.
The knob that almost always develops this issue is the volume control because that's the control used most on an electric guitar.
The poor man's method using stuff around the house
All you need is matte tape and a knife.
Take off the volume knob, then add a few layers of tape to its underside.
After that, cut off the excess tape that's sticking out.
After that, cut a hole in tape for the post to go through.
That's it.
Self adhesive felt pads work much better
If you buy a variety pack of self adhesive pads, you will have a much easier time compared to using matte tape. These are ordinarily meant for furniture use to protect hardwood floors, but that's actually a good thing because it significantly decreases the chance of marring plastic pick guards or body wood for guitars without pick guards. In addition, it's real nice that you have both round and square pieces, allowing you to experiment with what works best for your guitar controls.
If your volume knob works but is loose, better to add tension instead of replace it
The first reaction by most guitar players is to replace the potentiometer when it gets too loose. I disagree with this because if it works, better to just keep it and add tension because the sound of your guitar will change slightly even if you buy an exact replacement.
I can understand replacing a volume pot if the wiper on the inside is bad, causing "scratchy" sounds whenever using it. But if the wiper is good, the pot works and the only thing bad with it is the loose tension, again, better to just add tension.
Gretsch G5220 Electromatic Jet BT in Casino Gold
Gretsch proves once again that they really know how to do gold right.
Take the Gretsch model G5220 Electromatic Jet BT with the "V" shape stoptail. There is a finish available for that model called Casino Gold, and it's frickin' gorgeous. The price is also gorgeous as it's under $500 at the time I write this.
Bound body, bound neck, bound headstock, gleaming chrome, and of course the gold completes the package here. This axe is just a nice blend of gold and chrome with the silver pick guard rounding everything out.
The "BT" in the name refers to the Broad'Tron pickups. The sound is somewhat atypical Gretsch as the tone leans more towards an SG. In other words, it's a rather powerful pickup that's made its way into the G5220.
Body is mahogany and chambered to keep the weight down, and that's good because otherwise it would be a bit too heavy.
The neck is described by Gretsch as a "thin U" shape with gloss finish.
Scale length is the Gretsch oddball 24.6". This is ever-so slightly shorter than the Les Paul 24.75" scale, so if you're used to Les Paul fret spacing, this is a good guitar to get. Fingerboard radius is also the same 12" as a Les Paul.
Overall, great axe. Classy look with pickups that sound very good when overdriven. Kind of like a tiger in a tuxedo of sorts.
Cool guitar overall. And that gold... oh yes, it's good.