Why does anyone keep buying the same stuff over and over?
This happens with pretty much anything one considers "good".
While I don't hoard, there are times when I will either re-buy something or buy something "in twos" just because I like it so much.
Going back to a Squier Jazzmaster is an example of me re-buying something I really like. I bought one before, wore it out, traded it out, and a few guitars later bought it again just because it really suits me.
Sometimes I will buy a thing that's not a re-buy, but rather an updated version of something I really liked before. At the time I write this, I have a Casio B640WD-1A wristwatch on order. Expensive? Not in the slightest. But it has every feature I want out of a watch. It took me going through a few Casio watches before I found this specific one that has weekday/month/day on the face, alarm, stopwatch and countdown timer. It's basically an F-28W with added features.
Then there are times when I will revert back to older stuff just because it works best. My most "extreme" example of this is a pair of Garmin nuvi 200 GPSes I own. I had to hunt far and wide to find the right pair of these, so here's the quick story on that.
Given the fact you can use free OSM maps to update older Garmins now, you can use any GPS you want. I like a very specific model of 200, that being a 3.5-inch white-sticker model where the serial starts with 1GF.
I could write out a long list of reasons why the 2x0 nuvi (meaning 200, 250, 260 or 270) is so awesome, but here's the quick list:
- Best touchscreen out of any nuvi model, possibly ever. No hard presses required on 3.5-inch 2x0 models, backlight is strong and bright.
- Very fast route calculation that runs circles around later generation units, including brand new ones.
- Grabs a better GPS signal lock compared to newer units, and does it faster.
- No dopey menu animations at all. It is truly a joy to use because none of the menus scroll, slide or "bump" whatsoever.
- Best 2-D map out of any nuvi series. 3-D works great, but the 2-D, as in "Track Up" view, is top notch stuff. You'd have to use one to know why.
As noted above, it took me months to find two of the white-sticker/starts-with-1GF-serial 200 models.
Why own two? One gets used regularly, and the other is a backup that sits in the glove box. If the first one fails, I have another ready-to-use.
Also, I knew that if I didn't buy a pair of 200s now, the chances of getting one in the future will be slim to none, given that most people throw these things out. I'm happy to own the pair of 200s I do, even if they are a bit beat up.
If it was good before, it will most likely be good again
If you had something before, be it a guitar, pedal effect, piece of technology or whatever it was and you know it's good, then yes, go ahead and buy it again.
Sometimes newer isn't better. Sometimes the older stuff is the only way to go.
The best scenario is when you can re-buy something that is still being made right now brand new.
Is it worth it to spend extra on a re-buy?
That depends.
The best example of this is my pair of nuvi 200s. Total cost for both was $63. Worth it? For me, yes, because I know exactly what the unit is capable of. I know there is nothing better.
A re-buy I will most likely never do is buying a copy of my first Squier Strat guitar. I know exactly which guitar to get, what serial number style to look for, etc.. I also know what problems I will encounter with it, which parts I can replace, which parts I can't, and so on. What would start out as an under-$250 purchase would balloon to a lot more just from all the stuff I'd have to buy to make it a workable instrument. Worth the hassle? Not really.
Is it worth it to buy doubles?
Again, that depends what it is.
Buying two identical guitars is a bad idea, because one will get played and broken in, while the other never gets played, sits in a case and eventually becomes ruined from non-use.
Buying a double of a guitar effect pedal is fine because that doesn't require any breaking in whatsoever; your backup pedal will obviously sound just like the first.
Buying a double of a tech item is fine if it is not totally obsolete.
This one takes a little more explanation.
Obsolete means "not modern". Totally obsolete means "unusable".
My two nuvi 200s are both obsolete as they were made about 7 years ago, but are still very usable. All they needed were new memory cards, a firmware update and a modern map data image.
The Casio wristwatch I bought, even though brand new, is obsolete because it has decidedly retro styling and retro functionality. But it's totally usable as a timepiece.
Something I have in my possession which is totally obsolete is an old HP laptop running Windows 98. It is a useless machine that would be a chore to use if I had to. The only reason I've not thrown it out is simply because I keep forgetting to do so (but probably will after I write this).
In the end, it's perfectly okay to buy obsolete stuff as long as you have a practical use for it. If that involves a re-buy or two of something you had before, so be it. Use whatever is needed to get the job done the way you want it done.
Cheap guitar of the week #30 - Squier Vintage Modified Telecaster Custom
What's the deal with a Telecaster in this specific configuration? Believe me, there are real reasons it exists.
The Squier Vintage Modified Telecaster Custom is a bit of an oddball in the world of Telecasters because it has a configuration that most people don't understand the purpose of.
Quick note before continuing: The Fender version of this guitar is the Fender Classic Series '72 Telecaster Custom, so if you like this guitar and want a Fender version of it, the Classic Series '72 is what you want; it obviously costs more than the Squier does.
What is the Tele Custom?
It's basically a Tele with Les Paul-like controls and a replacement of the mini-single-coil to a humbucker.
For the observant, you will notice that every new Fender American Standard Telecaster right now comes installed with a "Broadcaster" rear pickup and a "Twisted Tele" front pickup. The Broadcaster is classic Telecaster twang, no question about that. But the Twisted Tele is specifically voiced to be more Stratocaster-like. Why? Because of player demand for a front Telecaster pickup that has a usable sound to it.
The old-school way of getting a usable sound out of the front side of a Telecaster was to rip out the mini-single and just drop a humbucker in there. It was good enough of an idea that Fender decided to make a dedicated model with that specific configuration.
Is a humbucker in the front position better than a modern Twisted Tele pickup? That I'm not sure of. I can personally work with either, but I will admit that having a Fender Wide Range Humbucker in the front position is nice to have.
The only thing that takes getting used to is the knobs. The guitar has "skirted" Fender amplifier knobs, and you get these whether using the Squier or Fender version of the guitar.
The difference between these and Strat knobs is that amp knobs are skinnier and taller. Not really a big deal, but it takes a little getting used to. They work fine otherwise.
Great guitar all around, and I'm glad a Squier version of this exists. This guitar does serve a very specific purpose; it's for Tele players that want a front side pickup with balls to it. Squier offers it for cheap, and cheap is good.
Return of the Squier Jazzmaster
I acquired another Jazzmaster to replace the one I traded out. Yes, I know you have questions. I have answers.
Okay. This is going to take some explaining.
Rise and fall of the original Jazzmaster
In November 2013, I bought a Squier Jazzmaster and kept it all the way up until late August 2015 where I traded it out for a Telecaster.
The question you have right now is why I traded out my red Jazzmaster, and the answer to that is simple. I wore out the frets just from playing the thing so much, although this could have also been due to the Dunlop strings I was using, which might have been fret-wreckers for all I know. As I talked about recently, I've since switched to Fender strings due to quality issues with the Dunlops.
Rise and fall of the Telecaster
I traded out the Jazzmaster for a Squier Affinity Telecaster in Metallic Red. Due to its very skinny 1.60-inch nut width (the normal nut with is 1.65-inch), I could not get along with that guitar. I thought I could, but that just wasn't happening. My wrist would hurt playing that thing. Not good. Had to go.
Rise and fall of the Stratocaster
Since I had the Tele for under 30 days, I traded it back for full store credit, then ordered up a black-on-black Squier Vintage Modified '70s Stratocaster. This is a guitar that did have a 1.65-inch nut width, and I thought going back to a Strat would be the proper thing to do.
Even though I paid the tech at Sam Ash to modify that Strat to get tone control on the bridge-only pickup setting (which worked fine, by the way), I could not get along with that Strat's tone. The best way I can describe it is "muddy" sounding. My 26-year-old Squier II Stratocaster has pickups with way more treble response to them.
Since I had that guitar under 30 days, I once again go back to Sam Ash, traded out that Strat for full store credit and ordered up another red Squier Jazzmaster. I had learned my lesson, should have just bought another Jazzmaster to begin with, so that's what I went with.
And yes, this means I lost money by spending cash on the in-store tech doing that tone control mod since that wasn't an original part of the guitar sale. While I didn't lose a bunch of money, still, it's money lost I won't get back.
Enter the second Candy Apple Red Jazzmaster
A few days go by (the guitar was in the warehouse and they had to retrieve it), then the guitar arrives at the store. I go to look at it. It's almost correct, but the top horn wheel controls are sunk in too much. This is not correct and I know this for a fact, given my first Jazzmaster absolutely did not have this problem. This new Jazz was the same guitar, same build origin (Indonesia), same series (Squier Vintage Modified). Nothing should have changed, but those top wheel controls were messed up.
I tell the store to order up another red Jazzmaster, but the guitar in that particular finish is backordered and will take 3 weeks before another shipment shows up.
I ask if they have a Sonic Blue they could get. The store says yes and can have it in 2 days.
Since waiting 2 days is a lot better than waiting 3 weeks, I tell the store to order up the Sonic Blue Jazzmaster.
Sonic Blue vs. Candy Apple Red
This is where things get really interesting.
The Sonic Blue Jazz arrives, and I go to the store to inspect it. Also in the store is that same Candy Apple Red Jazz with the messed up wheel controls; it was still there.
What I decided to do was try both guitars in the store, side-by-side. Even though the wheel controls were messed up on the red one, I wanted to try both anyway (if I really wanted to, I could have fixed those wheel controls myself with aftermarket parts.)
Were the wheel controls on the blue Jazzmaster sunk in as well? Yes, but slightly less than the red one. However, they're high enough to where I can operate them properly for the most part, so it's not a bother.
I park my butt in front of an amp and go back and forth between both guitars for about 10 minutes. Then I grabbed the little wrench tools the guitar comes with and made minor bridge and saddle height adjustments, then tested both again for probably another 20 minutes.
Never in my life had I tested any electric so thoroughly in a store before taking it home. But this time I did because I didn't want to have to come back to the store yet again for yet another return.
The Sonic Blue Jazzmaster was the winner here for 3 main reasons.
1. Much lighter in weight.
The red Jazzmaster was a bit of a boat anchor. Heavy. The Sonic Blue Jazz for whatever reason was much lighter. Almost Stratocaster-like in weight. I'm guessing the red Jazz was about 8.5lbs and the blue Jazz about 7.75lbs or close to it.
2. Better neck - after bridge and saddles were adjusted.
There were 2 bad frets on the red Jazz that caused fretting out. Not good. But the blue one had action that was a bit high. However, after lowering the bridge and saddles slightly, the blue one was better and did not have any frets with problems like the red one did.
3. Better nut cut
The 1 string on the red Jazz had a little bit of that sitar-like sound going on no matter where the height was set, indicating an improper nut slot height for that specific string. The blue Jazz did not have that issue.
In the end, the Sonic Blue Jazzmaster was the better guitar, so that's the one I took home.
Same as I remember, but better
Even though I've the same model as my first Jazzmaster, this one is better because I know the guitar a lot better now.
For example, Jazzmasters and Jaguars are buzzy; that's just the way they are. Even for expensive models like the Johnny Marr Jaguar or '65 Reissue Jazzmaster, they will buzz because it's part of the guitar's character. To expect a buzz-free Jazz or Jag is foolish. What I have now that I didn't before is experience with the Jazzmaster. This means I know when the guitar is buzzing too much.
I know now is that the sound of big Jazzmaster single-coils is a force to be reckoned with, because when I went without it, that sucked.
I got my first taste of big singles with the Epiphone Les Paul Special I P90, and liked it. While the P90 is not the same as a Jazzmaster pickup (there are several significant differences between the two), that guitar gave me enough confidence to try out a Jazzmaster later, enough to eventually purchase one.
When I traded out my Jazzmaster, I quickly realized that the sound from Stratocasters and Telecasters just isn't the same. All the midrange in my tone was gone. Strats and Teles have their place, to be sure, but skinny singles just don't compare to big singles.
I could have switched guitar brands and went with Epiphone as they have most guitar models with P90s that are affordable. If I wanted a Jazzmaster-like sound with a Jazzmaster-like vibrato system out of an Epiphone, the Wildkat is it. Totally. But as you'll see from the price tag, it's priced a few ticks higher than a Squier Vintage Modified Jazzmaster is.
I could have also jumped ship over to Gretsch if I wanted a solid-body with "jangly" tone. The G5435T with Bigsby, while not exactly cheap (it's the same price as a Fender Mexico Standard), it does have the vibrato I like and the Filter'Tron pickups. Those aren't singles, but still sound great.
As you can probably tell by now, Squier Jazzmaster is the only guitar of its kind at its price point that is able to do what it does so well. If you go with any other option, you will spend more for less. And believe me, I've looked around and examined the options.
It's good to have a Jazzmaster again.
Vintage guitar of the week #13 - 1969 Fender Stratocaster in Lake Placid Blue
Very expensive. But very cool.
The '69 Strat in LPB is not cheap at all. If you want this Strat, you will need deep pockets.
Now of course, this is one of my favorite Strat designs because of the "swoop" STRATOCASTER logo on the pegboard and WITH SYNCHRONIZED TREMOLO beneath it. That is just a very, very cool look. The only way to get it new right now is with a Malmsteen Strat. I so wish that Fender would put that logo treatment on a Mexico model like the Roadhouse. That guitar has the same pegboard, but Fender will not put the full logo treatment on it. And I've no idea why.
Anyway, aside from the logo treatment, what makes the '69 worth its price tag is if it's all-original, isn't a refin and uses a 4-bolt neck and not 3-bolt. It does however have "F" tuners. Some players don't like those, but I can get along with them just fine. These are the same tuners used on the Fender Classic Series '70s Stratocaster now, so if you've ever played one of those (which I have,) you know what the tuner feels and acts like.
If in addition it's not a refin, a naturally aged Lake Placid Blue usually results where the finish darkens, the blue diminishes and the green starts to come out more. There's just something about naturally aged LPB that gives a Strat a very elegant look.
Like I said, this '69 is expensive. But if it looks correct, it's unmolested and all-original, it should have quite a few years of life left in her.
Switching guitar string brands, and why I sometimes do it
Sometimes it's necessary to switch guitar string brands. I just did.
Most of my followers know that my string brand of choice is Dunlop DEN0942. I've recently switched over to Fender Super 250's, and I'll explain why.
Dunlop's VCI stopped working
VCI means Vapor Corrosion Inhibitor. In every pack of Dunlop DEN strings there's this little silica packet that's supposed to prevent corrosion so every new set of strings has no rust on them.
As of recent, every pack of strings no matter where I buy a Dunlop set from has had rust on the strings, namely on the unwound B and G.
Fender Super 250's also use VCI. No silica packet is involved, but I've not seen any rust on them yet.
Dunlop availability is a problem
It's really annoying to want to buy a new pack of strings, only to find it's not only difficult to find in local guitar stores, but also difficult to find online. Dunlop has this problem with their DEN strings.
Does Dunlop have this problem all the time? No. It seems to be a month-to-month problem. On some months, DEN strings are available pretty much everywhere, and on other months, available pretty much nowhere.
Fender (finally) fixed their guitar string quality problems
I don't know what company manufactures Fender guitar strings these days, but whatever company is doing it does a far better job compared to how Fender strings used to be.
There was a time, not all that long ago, when Fender guitar strings were bad. And I mean bad. As in "snaps in less than a week" bad. As in "rusted right out of the pack" bad. As in "never stays in tune" bad. As in wrecks-your-frets bad. Fender guitar strings used to be all those things.
I was hesitant to try the Super 250's again for all of these reasons. But fortunately, the quality of the string has greatly improved pretty much across the board.
Now again, I don't know who makes the Super 250's for Fender. For all I know, Dunlop could be making them. Or maybe D'Addario. Maybe some other company. I don't know.
What I do know is that I now consider the Super 250's good.
Even though the 250's don't break in as fast as the Dunlop strings do, they are a lot easier to come by (availability is never a problem,) they're affordable and the build quality has gone up several notches.
Sometimes it's necessary to revisit a string
I stayed away from Super 250's for years because of the problems I mentioned above. But because of the problems the Dunlop strings were having, I decided to give the 250's another go, and things ended up all right. (If they hadn't, Dean Markley NickelSteel would have been my next choice.)
What I notice with guitar string brands is that they have good and bad years.
During the good years, the strings are always great for every pack you use.
During the bad years, something happens in the string manufacturing process, the string starts to not feel right, build quality declines, and you know it's not you but rather the string that's the problem. That's when you switch brands.
My tips for guitar string shopping when seeking out a new brand to use
1. Go cheap; stay cheap.
Spending more on guitar strings only does one thing, and that's make you poorer faster. Purposely use cheap strings. One brand will stand out above the rest that will work for you.
2. Buy what's readily available.
Whatever is always available in the guitar store and/or always available online is the brand you go with. If you buy one of those boutique brands that are tough to locate, not only are you spending more but waiting more just for them to show up in the mail.
3. Hop between as many brands as you need to before you find the right one.
I got lucky with the Fender Super 250's and came across a brand that worked for me. But I was ready to hop over to another brand if they had not worked out, and I would have kept on doing it until I found the right strings.
Trust what your eyes and fingers tell you
When you look at strings you usually buy brand new out of the pack and say to yourself, "That doesn't look right...", that's not you that's the problem. Or if the strings look right, but when you play they don't feel right (maybe too loose or too tight?), again, that's not you that's the problem there either. Something changed in the way the string was made. Something bad.
If your eyes or your fingers are telling you something is wrong with the string, then something is wrong with the string - especially if the problem keeps happening from pack to pack of whatever brand you use.
Switch string brands if you have to. And don't be afraid to revisit a brand you've not tried in a while, because that brand might have improved since you last used it.