5 easy ways to tell if an electric guitar is junk or not when in the guitar store
If you buy enough electric guitars, at some point you run into that "played and sounded great in the store, but then played and sounded like crap when I got it home" scenario. This happens to a lot of guitar buyers, and yes I've had it happen to me a few times. And remember, this can happen with any guitar regardless of how cheap or expensive it is.
Fortunately there are a few really easy things you can do while in the guitar store to determine whether a guitar is junk or not.
1. Bring a pocket flashlight
Ever notice that most guitar stores have dim lighting? There's a reason for that.
A standard trick many guitar stores do is purposely make the surrounding lighting dim so you can't see imperfections on a guitar. All lights are using pointing at the walls and not the floor, making it difficult for you to see finish scratches, body dents and other obvious issues.
Bring along a pocket flashlight and shine the light over every inch of the neck and body while sitting down with the guitar and inspecting it. If this makes the sales staff nervous and they try to distract you, that's a huge red flag that there's something wrong with the guitar they don't want you to see.
Which type of pocket flashlight is is the best? The higher the lumens, the brighter the light. Go for the one with the highest lumens rating and you'll get the brightest light. For example, if your pocket flashlight has a 1,000 lumens rating, trust me, that thing can throw some serious light. And they're not that expensive.
What's the bare minimum lumens rating that's any good? 100. Personally, I keep my minimum to at least 300 lumens, but a 100 will do the job if size of flashlight is a concern.
2. Look for obvious mismatched components
If from the pickups in the guitar there's one that looks newer than the others, that's a red flag because the guitar has been modified.
If from the knobs there's one that doesn't match the others, that's a red flag.
If from the pick guard screws there are some that are different than the others (remember, they're all supposed to be the same size), that's a big red flag because it means the guy who owned it before didn't even put it back together correctly after his "modifications".
If from the bridge saddles one or more doesn't match the others, that's a red flag because the set is mismatched and put together poorly.
3. Crank up the distortion to check for "scratchy" knobs
The easiest way to tell if the volume and tone pots are OK or not is to plug in the guitar, turn up the amp, add distortion, but don't play. Cycle through the knobs turning it from 0 to 10 and back again several times, and do the same for the tone knobs. You will instantly hear if the pots "scratch" at all. If they do, you know there's a problem and you shouldn't buy it.
Another thing you can do is the same test after lightly plucking the B string, because sometimes "scratchy" pots can't be heard unless there's some signal going through the pickups.
4. Check for hairline fractures at the nut
A cracked nut is one of the biggest reasons anyone trades in a guitar, because once that happens, a players just trades in the guitar in instead of repairing it.
Hairline fractures of a nut are especially difficult to see if the nut is black, and this is one of the instances where your flashlight will come in very handy, because you probably won't be able to see the crack without it.
Do new guitars sometimes have cracked nuts? It's rare, but yes it sometimes happens.
A note specifically concerning Les Paul style guitars: They are more likely to have nut issues compared to Strats specifically because of the way the strings are mounted after the nut. On a Strat guitar, the direction of the string after the nut is straight. On a Paul guitar, the direction is angled, and it's a very well known fact that causes greater nut stress. This is a big reason to always examine the nut closely on a Paul guitar before buying it.
5. Check for clicks and creaks
Sit down with the guitar unplugged. Do a 3-fret bend on the B string, then the same on the G string, then the same on the D string.
If you literally hear (and may even feel) the guitar clicking, creaking or making cracking noises, don't buy that guitar. The neck is either installed improperly, or something in the bridge isn't set up right, or the nut has problems.
If you hear "kinking" noises, that may just be old strings and you'll hear that come from the headstock end of the guitar. But if there are click/creak/crack noises from the body side of the guitar, just put it down and don't buy it no matter how bad you want it.
On guitars like Squier Bullet Strats, the click/creak/crack noises, should they be present, are almost always caused by the fact neck pocket was not cut correctly from the factory. And even with neck securely tightened at the bolt plate, this is an issue that can never be fixed. Remember however that this is not a universal problem with the guitar. Both my China-made Bullet Strat and Indonesia-made Bullet HH do not have any click/creak/crack issues whatsoever.
On guitars like Epiphone Les Pauls, click/creak/crack noises almost always come from the bridge, because a traditional Tune-O-Matic style bridge does "travel" (even on Gibson models), meaning it moves and at times will not stay put. This is fixable with the simple installation of a new bridge with set screws to eliminate the traveling issue. However, you are better off finding a Paul that doesn't have a bridge-travel issue, because why buy a guitar if it needs extra money spent right after you buy it just so it's playable?
A quick checklist specifically concerning STRATOCASTER guitars
I'm a Strat guy as most people know (both for Squier and Fender), so I'm fairly educated on how to spot problems with them, be they new or used.
Pickup movement
Pinch a single-coil pickup between your fingers and rock it back and forth. It should barely move or not at all. If it easily gives way and can be rocked back and forth with almost no effort, the mounting springs are worn out - OR - the springs were replaced with tubing and it has worn out.
Push a single-coil pickup down towards the pick guard. If it sinks in easily, once again the tension springs are bad or it has tubing that wore out.
Whether a Strat is new or old, the pickups simply shouldn't move. Yes it's true they will always have some give to them, but if the movement is really obvious, that's a red flag that someone "modified" the underside with an "improvement" that obviously didn't work at all or was installed completely improperly.
This one's easy. Examine the strap buttons. If the screw is sticking out, immediately point this out to a sales guy and request a screwdriver to tighten it. He'll let you.
If the screw won't tighten, the hole is stripped. Fortunately this is an easy fix as all you have to do is full the hole with wood putty, let it dry and set, drill a small pilot hole smaller than the hole itself and screw the original screw back in. It doesn't matter what the putty color is as the button itself will cover it easily.
The second way to check for a stripped strap button hole is to pinch the button with your fingers and attempt to twist it. If it moves easily, the hole is probably stripped.
You can use this as a bargaining maneuver to knock the price down of the guitar, because if the strap button hole(s) are worn out, that's extra repair you have to perform on the guitar after it's bought.
Remember: Traditional strap buttons on Stratocaster guitars are not supposed to move at all.
Check the back of the headstock for exposed holes
Again, this one is very easy. Look at the back of the headstock. See any exposed holes? That means the tuners were swapped out and it's most likely true the "cheap" ones were put back before the guitar was traded in.
This can be used as a bargaining maneuver to knock the price of the guitar down.
Check for cracked tremolo block
This specifically applies to older Squier Strats, although on rare occasion some Fenders suffer from this as well.
The only way to examine a tremolo block is to take off the back plate. Shine your flashlight in there and look for stress cracks on the block. If you see any, they will be easily visible right where the claw springs meet the block, and that tremolo block is junk and will need replacement.
Older Squier Strats have this happen often because they're made of zinc and not stainless steel or brass. It is an easy repair - BUT - you may have a difficult time locating a block that actually fits correctly as the American blocks usually never fit the Squier models.
If repairing the bridge system concerning the block, you may be better off buying a whole new bridge system, because after all, it's cheap and actually costs less than just the block itself.
Check for slanted bridge screws
I've seen this happen on brand new Squier Stratocasters in particular, and it's a very easy thing to miss. This particularly applies to bridges mounted with 6 screws on top (typically labeled a "vintage bridge" setup) and not the two-point bridge.
Look at all 6 screws. If there's any screw head that's not flush to the bridge and is slanted or leaning slightly, don't buy that guitar because the screw was not installed properly. It's not an easy fix either because you have to take the whole bridge off, fill the hole with the bad thread with wood putty, let that dry and set, drill a pilot hole and attempt to get the screw to thread itself straight on reinstallation. I say "attempt" because most of the time it simply won't thread straight and the same problem will come back again.
Why are slanted bridge screws a problem? Because it can cause creaking/clicking noises when bending strings or using the tremolo bar. Every time you bend hard using either method, the bridge will move slightly and make noises you won't like at all. In addition, it can cause finish cracks and chips over time where the bridge is mounted to the body.
Why I never got into Les Paul guitars
When I was a kid just starting out on guitar in the very-early 1990s, the Strat was the guitar. None of the guitar stores ever featured the Les Paul at the time. You never saw them in the glass case that some guitar stores had. Most of the time, all you ever saw there were premium American Stratocaster guitars.
The Gibson Les Paul was considered the "old guy's guitar" and nobody wanted it. Nobody except old guys, that is. Now it's true that Appetite for Destruction had been released in 1987 by Guns 'N Roses, and the lead guitar player Slash was seen playing his Les Paul guitars very prominently in all GNR music videos - but - the sound everyone wanted in the early 1990s was grunge, punk and metal. Grunge and punk guys played Strats, Jags and Mustangs. Metal guys played basically anything but Gibson and stuck to brands like Ibanez and Jackson instead because they were much better suited for the job (and still are).
It was in the later 90s that players really started buying up all those old Fender guitars from the 60s because grunge brought back that whole "earthy" garage-band sound. This was way before anyone had the idea of "relic'ing" a guitar. People just wanted those old Strats, Mustangs and Jags because everyone had their fill of 80s glam crap, wanted to go back to the the old stuff, and did.
After vintage Fenders started getting a lot of recognition, the Les Paul naturally followed, but I never got into them for very specific reasons.
Why I don't like Gibson Les Paul guitars
1. The body shape cuts into my ribs
I don't like the Les Paul body shape for the same reason I don't like the Telecaster, that being the rear of the body is hard-edged. No contour cut like the one on Stratocaster body exists on a traditional-shape Les Paul body.
2. Overpriced to an insane level
When the Paul tripped over the $2,000 mark, that's when it got insane because that's more than most homeowners pay for annual taxes on their property each year. The guitar is simply not worth that much no matter what anyone says.
The price of a USA Gibson Les Paul Standard is so high that it's actually offensive.
3. I don't like a guitar I can't thrash
I'm a hard player, and I know for a fact I'd snap the headstock right off a Gibson Les Paul just playing like I normally do. All it takes is one wild bend on the G string and *CRACK!*, busted headstock.
Why would the headstock break? Because it's well known to be the weakest part of the Paul guitar, even on brand new ones. The #1 guitar repair is fixing busted Paul headstocks. Ask any luthier.
I have zero interest in buying a $2,500 guitar only to discover it can't survive a bend I can do on a $119 guitar easily.
The only Paul made by a Gibson company that can handle my playing style is the Epiphone Prophecy Les Paul. But I'd hate playing it because it's a "metal guitar" with overcomplicated electronics and a super-flat 14-inch radius fingerboard. No way would I be comfortable playing that. Metal guys love that guitar, but as I just said, I don't do metal guitars. I may play that style from time to time, but I greatly dislike any guitar specifically designed for that genre of music because, well, they suck.
4. I'm not interested in experiencing "Expensive Guitar Buyer's Remorse"
The Gibson Les Paul is the granddaddy of all electrics where you absolutely do not get what you pay for.
As a collector, sure, the Paul is worth the price tag if you buy it, play it only 2 hours a year, keep it for 10 years and then sell it for twice the price. That I can understand.
But I'm not a guitar collector. As a player I need a machine I can use and abuse. And the Paul definitely is not it.
If I owned a USA Paul, I would break it in less than a year just from playing the crap out of it. There are Paul owners who say "a Les Paul is forever". Well, those guys must play very lightly or barely play at all because I can certainly prove easily a Paul is not "forever". Before the end of the first year owning the Paul, I can guarantee you I would break something on it. Then the rumbling pangs of regret would set in. "Geez, I just broke a $2,500 guitar.. um.. now I'm sad."
Whenever anyone has let me play their Les Paul, I can see the nervousness in their eyes because I'm actually playing a guitar how it was meant to be played - but you obviously can't do that with a Paul because they can't handle it. Whenever a Paul is in my hands, I have to constantly keep reminding myself, "Okay.. this is a Paul. Have to be careful with this fragile stupid thing.. man this sucks! Someone give me a Strat..."
Tip: Never let me play your Paul, because I'll probably break it. And then you would be sad. And probably never talk to me again.
5. I see nothing but an overpriced toy when I see a Gibson Les Paul electric guitar
When I see a Paul, I don't think, "Wow, I've GOT to have that!" That thought has never crossed my mind any time I've ever seen a Paul guitar. Nowhere in my brain is any lust for a USA-made Gibson Les Paul Standard. Or any other Gibson Les Paul model for that matter.
There was a time in history when the Gibson Les Paul was the "working man's guitar". Well, Gibson lost that title years ago because a working man can't even afford one now.
Pauls are the guitars I see in guitar stores that are only for cork-sniffer types.
moon over parador
Moon Over Parador (1988) is one of those movies where I seriously cannot remember whether I saw it in the theater, rented it or saw it on TV. Part of my brain thinks I actually saw this in the theater; another says no, I must have rented this (I did sometimes rent movies I ordinarily never would just because I was in the video store and had to rent something so I wouldn't leave empty-handed); and yet another part says I must have seen this on TV as one of those filler movies during the summer. I just don't remember.
What I do remember is that yes I actually did see this film and not much else.
Being I remembered the name of the movie and that I'd seen it before, I re-watched it.
This is a dumb movie and did awful at the box office. It cost an estimated 20 million to make and only grossed 11.4 million. I've no idea why anyone thought this story would make a good movie, because it just doesn't work. But the funny part is that even as bad as this movie is, it's entertaining. It starts off painfully slow, but once it gets going it's not bad. Most of the humor throughout is feel-good type, and the ending is also feel-good as well, so the ending of it is satisfying - even if totally unbelievable (as in literally, not as in being amazed).
As far as plot holes go, there was nothing obvious, save for one part which is almost a hole and barely covers itself up. I won't get into too much detail concerning what it is (just in case you want to watch this movie), but I'll just say that when the assassin revealed himself, I immediately thought, "WAIT A SECOND.. how did that guy know who the President really was and know what he wanted to do?" I actually had to think about this, and then remembered, "Okay.. it's possible that the lead character could have covertly communicated with the guy over the course of the night, revealed who he was and then made his plans that way." That is a huge stretch to assume that much, but like I said, it was possible, although just barely.
There's another part that doesn't work either, and that's the very end of the movie. There's a weak attempt made in the story in which you are attempted to be led to believe that the lead character might have been making the whole thing up. The reason this doesn't work is that the time of day is the exact same at that point in the movie as it is in the beginning of the movie, so it's assumed when he was telling the story that less than an hour had passed. And there's absolutely no way the lead character could tell a story that detailed in that span of time, so the "Did he make it all up?" factor just did not work. At all.
Like I said, dumb movie. I will admit it does have a few good moments, and the characters were actually not too bad. But the story totally sucked. If you have absolutely nothing else to watch, see Moon Over Parador. You could do worse.
Things guitar players should buy in bulk
There are things you should buy in bulk and other things you shouldn't. What I'm going to concentrate on here is stuff you should buy in bulk as a guitar player.
Picks
When you find the pick you really like you should buy them in a big bag. You won't find these in guitar stores and you have to purchase exclusively online to get this big bag of picks, but it's totally worth it because you won't have to buy another pick for years.
My preferred pick, the Jim Dunlop Tortex, is available to be bought in a bag of 72 picks, and the price is usually $20 or less. If you do the math on that, your cost is about 28 cents per pick.
Here are some links to get the big bag of 72 in all the sizes of Tortex Standard picks, from thinnest to thickest.
Note: Sometimes certain picks will show no listings currently available. That's fine. Just come back to this web page in a week and try again, and they will probably be there, so keep this web page in your bookmarks.
Where to place picks so you always have one at the ready:
- In every new pack of guitar strings you buy. Whenever you go to change out your strings, there's a fresh unused pick ready-to-use. For every new pack of strings you get, always throw a pick in the package so it's there when it's string changing time.
- In your guitar case or gig bag. Toss in 5 picks in your case or bag.
- Taped behind your headstock. You can use one of those pick holder things on your headstock, or do it the cheap way and just tape three picks behind the headstock. Tape is better - especially if you have more than one guitar.
Polish Cloths
You probably have a polish cloth, but it's most likely old and worn out. These cloths are not something that "get better" as they age, and you have to keep these things fresh.
Guitar polish cloths can be bought in packs of 12. The cost will be anywhere from $20 to $30, or around $2 per cloth.
Important note: From the link above you will see Fender cloths, Jim Dunlop cloths, Washburn cloths, Dr. Lixx, and so on. There is no one cloth that's better than the other. Buy the cheapest one because they're all the same.
Bounty Basic White Paper Towels
Everyone needs paper towels for cleaning. However, you would be surprised how difficult it is sometimes to find quality plain white single-sheet paper towels.
When it comes to cleaning things like bridge saddles, headstocks and fingerboards, a polish cloth isn't enough because you need something you can get wet with water to clean properly; that's where the paper towel comes in.
The only proper paper towel to use is the plain white single sheet. No printed patterns, no scented sheets, no "select-a-size" with those weird cuts in the paper. Just plain single white sheets.
And the best sheets to get are Bounty Basic brand in "White" (meaning no "fun prints"). The best way to buy these are in packs of 6 or 12 rolls.
"Bounty Basic White paper towels aren't available in my country"
I bet you they are and are probably just being sold under a different brand name. Just look for paper towels that are single-sheet-only, white and plain with no patterns printed on them. If they are not available in your local department store or supermarket, seek out a janitorial supply store as they will have them.
Note: Avoid buying more than 12 rolls
A 6-roll package, while light in weight, is a big package. A 12-roll package is huge. And then there are listings where you can buy 2 12-roll packages for a total of 24 rolls. Don't buy that because it's way too big and won't fit in your kitchen, so you'll have to store all the unused rolls in the garage where they will get ruined from moisture. At the absolute most, buy 12 rolls. I personally buy only the 6-roll packages because it does last a really long time.
Why I use nickel-plated strings
Fender electric guitars do typically work best with .009 to .042 gauge string. Both Squier and Fender do ship electric guitars from the factory with that size string installed on the Stratocaster and Telecaster. In addition, the string is always nickel-plated, commonly abbreviated as NPS (nickel-plated steel).
My string of choice for my Stratocaster guitars is the Dean Markley 1972 Vintage Reissue, and I have very specific reasons why I use that string.
They bend easier. A big reason I'm able to do the crazy bends I do on a Strat is because of NPS strings.
They don't break as often. Because they can bend more, they don't break as much. At least not for me.
The "semi-bright" tone sounds better for barre chords. NPS strings aren't known for being super-bright (as in 'trebly'), but when playing chords they have what I best describe as a "more even" sound to them.
I can "ring out" notes better with NPS strings. On the neck position I can get the classic "blue tones" I love, the bridge/mid and mid/neck "quack" pickup selector positions sound proper, and my bridge position setting "growls" like I want it to with NPS. With plain steel the tone to my ear is just too "tinny".
I'm not interested at all in special strings that will "last forever"
This is my most important point and I have a few things to say about this one.
Here's what happens with each type of 'special' string:
Cryogenic
These are strings that were frozen (usually by being dipped in liquid nitrogen) during the manufacturing process. Supposedly, the cryogenic process adds "brightness" to the string and extends the life of it.
Are they "brighter"? Yes, but only for about 2 weeks and then they dull right out.
Do cryogenic treated strings last longer? Yes, but there's a few tradeoffs to this. No matter how often you clean them, the sheen will dull out. In addition, as the steel gets older it will dent. Regular strings will just snap. Cryogenic treated strings usually don't and will instead keep working, but dent in the places where it would have snapped. You'll see this happen on the 1 and 2 strings the most where a portion of the string will have a little "squiggle" to it over time. The string is still there and while it didn't bust, it will dent. There's nothing wrong with this, but it just looks weird.
Stainless Steel
These will never rust, and that's a fact. However over time what happens to them (particularly on the 1, 2 and 3 strings) is that they turn black from all the gunk that gets on them. It doesn't matter how much you clean your strings as the blackness will happen. Stainless steel may not rust, but it does tarnish, and that's where the blackness comes from. It can happen even with the guitar just sitting there on a stand and not being played.
Note: Stainless steel strings do have a legitimate purpose. If you play slide guitar using a steel slide, stainless strings work very well with that. Consider that with a steel slide you're dragging steel-on-steel which will get strings rusty real quick. Use the stainless kind and rust isn't an issue at all since it won't occur.
Coated
These are the type of special strings I'm going to talk about the most.
Coated strings are only good for as long as the coating holds out. Once the coating starts to wear off - and it will - it dulls right out.
Changing strings regularly beats any coated string
You may have heard some people on YouTube lately touting that the Elixir Polyweb string "with anti-rust plain steels" is supposedly the best string ever.
Well, that's debatable.
Elixir says that their coatings prevent gunk from getting into the wound strings.
Is this true?
Yes, but only to a point.
It's like I said above, as long as the coating holds out, it will keep the gunk out. But once that coating starts to wear off, in comes the gunk, dead goes the tone and there's not a thing you can do about it.
Is it true Polyweb strings last longer?
Yes and no.
Yes in the respect they won't rust as quickly or collect as much gunk. No in the respect that they will snap in the same amount of time an NPS string would. Why? Because the coating is what it is - a coating. It doesn't strengthen the steel whatsoever. Some players say the coating "bonds" the steel, but I totally do not buy that at all because I can bust through a set of Polywebs in the same amount of time as I would an NPS set.
How long does a coating last?
Depends on the player. The more you play, the faster the coating wears off.
Do the math and you probably won't buy coated strings for your electric guitar ever again
The Dean Markley 1972 strings can be bought in a box of 12 for $35, which is roughly $3 per pack of strings. Coated strings are always more expensive and usually more than triple the price of NPS. Using the Elixir Polyweb example, you will spend a bare minimum of $113 for 12 sets, meaning each set cost you roughly $10. You're literally paying $1.60 per string with Polywebs.
If you play your electric guitar regularly, coated strings do almost nothing for you since you're going to change them out on a regular basis anyway. The only advantage you'll get is that they'll feel smoother and I'll talk about that more in a moment.
On acoustic guitars, coated strings do actually serve a legitimate tonal purpose as they do not "screech" nearly as much when you drag your hand across the strings when playing chords; this is absolutely true.
On electric bass guitars, coated strings are also very good for the exact same reason you'd put them on an acoustic guitar. Less drag "screeching", more tone.
If the intent with your electric guitar is to display it as a showpiece, such as hanging it on the wall and rarely if ever playing it, or maybe prepping it for sale as a collector's item later, coated strings will serve you well since you'll probably never wear off the coating. The coating will work better than stainless steel because it won't tarnish, only require a periodic wipe-down to keep the strings shiny and playable, and last for years. And when I say "rarely if ever playing it", that means you play the instrument less than 2 hours total over the course of a year, and when you do play it you never do any crazy bends or anything else that would decrease the life of the coating.
The smooth touch of coated strings is negated by the fact most have no nickel in them, requiring you to bend harder. Yes, coated strings are smoother to the touch, no question. But for the ones with no nickel content in them, what's the end result? Fingertip soreness from having to fight against the fact the string doesn't bend as easily. So sure, when not bending the strings feel great, but when you are, you'll be in a world of hurt when you're done playing.
The old way is still the best way for players
Traditional NPS strings have the same problems they've always had. They're only good for a few weeks before they need to be changed out and rust easily. I don't deny that at all. However they still are the best choice for most players. A new, fresh set of strings always looks and sounds the best, and part of being an electric guitar player is that you have to change your strings a lot, and that's just the way it is.
Guitar collectors just love-love-love the coated strings because it allows them to not have to change the strings as often, and that's fine. As for the rest of us who actually play our electrics a lot and know we have to change out strings regularly, coated strings don't do a thing for tone or sustain on electric guitars.
On a final note, I don't use the 1972s for any "vintage" reason, but rather because to my fingers they have the smoothest touch for NPS, have the right tension for how I play, bend correctly on a Strat-style guitar as far as my preference is concerned, and sound right to my ears. Nobody ever recommended to me to use Dean Markley strings. I ultimately decided on using them for everything just from good old trial-and-error. I tried a bunch of different brands, and the 1972s suit me best.