Are multitrack recorders any good?

It is true that if you wanted to, you can use your PC (Windows or Linux) or Mac to record multitrack audio completely for free using Audacity. That app may be ugly and not the most user-friendly thing in the world, but hey, it's free.

A problem when recording to the PC is that it's tough to get your guitar tone to sound right, and this is especially true if you use pedals. If using a Line 6 POD, then sure, you should be able to get a good sound when plugged in direct to your sound card, but with pedals it's not easy. Typically, pedals when connected directly to a computer sound very "buzzy" and there's not much you can do about that.

What's a multitrack recorder?

These are standalone devices that can record multiple tracks of audio, which some of you may call "layers", as in you "lay down" one track, then lay down another, and so on. Multitrack recorders are completely self-contained and do not require a separate computer to operate.

There are a few distinct advantages to owning a standalone multitrack recorder.

Compact

You can take a multitrack recorder almost anywhere. It goes where you go. You can't do that with a PC, and even if you have a laptop, it's not like you want to lug that thing around whenever you want to record.

Convenient

A standalone multitrack recorder is the easiest way to record your band. Bring it along to practice, plug in, mic up and start recording.

Yes, it's a studio!

Today's portable multitrack recorders are stuffed full of features that used to cost many thousands of dollars. Built-in effects, filters and a whole bunch of other cool stuff.

Computer connectivity

I know of no multitrack recorder that doesn't have PC connection options when you need to export audio, so it's there when you need it.

Here's a few multitrack recorders you can check out

• BOSS Micro BR-80 - One of the smallest multitrack recorders you'll find. The only real drawback is that it's mainly made for guitar players and not recording full bands, but if you write a lot of riffs, you'll love owning this.
• Korg Sound on Sound Unlimited Track Recorder SR1 - This is also a small-sized multitrack recorder with unlimited overdub capability, and has tons of effects and drum patterns as well that a lot of people like.
• Tascam DP-008 Portastudio - Tascam and its PortaStudio line has been around for a very long time and almost wrote the book on how portable multitracking should be done. Years ago I used to own compact cassette-based Portastudios, and they were great. Tascam is still holding up the tradition with modern digital models like the DP-008.
• ZOOM R16 - Not cheap, but worth the price. Very friendly operation, easy menus and one of the best for recording bands with.
• BOSS BR-800 - The big brother to the Micro BR-80. Sort of complicated to use, so read the description carefully before considering this one - but it's a powerhouse.

How to avoid Stratocaster-Les-Paul syndrome

I don't have a problem with people who play Stratocaster or Les Paul guitars. If that's what you like, that's fine. What I do have a problem with however are guitar players who are absolutely unwilling to try something different every once in a while.

I own Strats (both by Fender and Squier), and I've played Les Paul guitars (both by Epiphone and the real-deal Gibsons). However I've also tried other electric guitars that break out of that Stratocaster-Les-Paul thing, and some of them are pretty cool.

Before I list off the guitars you should consider trying out, the key to avoiding Stratocaster-Les-Paul syndrome is just a willingness to try different guitars that AREN'T Strats or Les Pauls. I'm not saying you shouldn't buy a Strat or a Les Paul. What I am saying is don't limit your options to just those two guitars.

Here's a few you may really like (and most of them are very affordable):

1. ESP LTD M-53 - This is primarily a rock/metal guitar. Has the reverse headstock, looks good, has the HSS pickup configuration and easy controls.
2. Squier Cyclone - Definitely different. Somewhat similar to a Fender Mustang, but without the complicated electronics and a really good looker to boot.
3. Dean Z-X - It blows my mind how Dean can sell a guitar this good that looks awesome for as cheap as they do. Fantastic looking burst, and fits just about any style of music you'd want to play.
4. Dean VX - Like the Z-X, except in a V-shape. Very cool.
5. ESP LTD V-50 - Another V guitar, but with sharper body edges. Probably the "most metal looking" guitar you can buy for the lowest possible price. I remember when buying a guitar in this shape used to cost $500+, but now it's half that price.
6. Squier Jagmaster - Very cool guitar to have for that awesome retro look, and probably one of the most comfortable body shapes Fender has ever put out. You wouldn't think so to look at it, but it's very comfy when playing sitting or standing.
7. Peavey PXD Tomb - If you want something that will get you noticed on stage (or even with just with your friends), you should get this. The body has a wild-but-nice shape and the headstock looks like bat wings (seriously!) Very cool. Stupidly simple operation. One pickup, one volume knob and that's it. Gorgeous all around.

Rich's top 6 recommended guitar effects pedals

I'm of the belief that there's basically no such thing as a "cheap guitar" anymore. Yes, there are inexpensive guitars, but just about all of them are well-made. What this means is that the price of an inexpensive guitar is cheap, but it doesn't feel, play or sound cheap. Some may tell you differently, but I can say with 100% certainty there are inexpensive guitars well under $300 that are built just as well as those costing $1,000 or more.

One place where you shouldn't go cheap in price however is with effects pedals. Cheap pedals are literally built with parts that will break easily, have knobs that will start to get "scratchy" quickly when you adjust them, have poorly-constructed in/out ports and so on. With a guitar effects pedal (commonly referred to as a "stomp box"), the thing has to be built right the first time. After all, you are operating it most of the time with your foot, and it should be able to be used without worry of the pedal falling apart on you.

"But Rich, you don't use effects pedals"

No, I don't. I use a DigiTech GSP 1101. However, if I were going to buy pedals (which I most likely will be doing at some point), this is what I would get and this is what I recommend.

Each pedal below will have a link next to the image so you can check it out to see the price, specifications and so on.

Rich's recommended stomp boxes

MXR M169 Carbon Copy

Digital delay is nice, but the analog pedals are much easier to operate, and in my experience sounds better through an amp compared to digital. This particular MXR is built like a tank and can take a lot of abuse.

BOSS DD-7

If analog delay isn't your thing and you want the digital which gives you more options, the only one worth having is the DD-7.

MXR M135 Smart Gate

I'm a Strat player, and the 1st, 3rd and 5th position pickup settings on a traditional SSS pickup configuration will exhibit 60-cycle hum when the distortion or overdrive is on unless you have special noise-cancelling pickups (which Squier Strats don't have). To get rid of this noise from an amp, you use an adjustable noise gate. The M-135 does the job nicely to get rid of that hum.

MXR M234 Analog Chorus

Electric guitars when played clean (as in with no distortion) usually don't sound that great no matter what guitar you have. To "fatten up" the tone, a chorus pedal helps out a great deal and everyone should have one. I like the M234 in particular because it basically gives you everything you'd ever need out of a chorus pedal. And yes, this is again one of those instances where analog sounds better when going through an amp.

BOSS DS-1

A classic distortion pedal. If you've been around other guitar players, I guarantee you've seen this familiar orange box on the floor. A must-have for anyone's pedal collection. It's simple, easy, works, sounds good and it's well-made.

If there's any pedal you should buy first, the DS-1 is it.

Dunlop Crybaby 535Q Multi-Wah

Tons of guitar players use a wah pedal, and if you're wondering which you should get, the Crybaby 535Q is it. I suggest this one over other wah pedals because of the "Q Dial" that allows you to shape the wah sound to your liking. Other wah pedals only give you one non-adjustable sound.

Rich's 5 recommended rock songs for beginner guitar players

(Quick notes before starting this: If you're shopping for a starter guitar all-in-one pack that includes guitar, amp, cables and picks, go here. Or if you're ready to upgrade to another guitar but want to keep it cheap, go here.)

It is absolutely mandatory that you learn rhythm before lead. What this means is to completely ignore the solos in songs and concentrate on the melodies, as in "the riffs", instead. The songs below are my picks for beginner guitar players to learn. Yes, most of them are very easy and some don't even have solos in them, but that's the whole point. Remember, no guitar player is worth anything if he can't play a riff in proper time.

1. Black Sabbath - Paranoid - Originally released in 1970, this is probably the most-played rock song of all time for guitar players. Note: The tuning of this song is slightly higher than the standard E, so you will have to tune up your strings slightly.
2. The Ramones - Blitzkrieg Bop - Originally released in 1976, this is a classic punk song that's easy to play and has no solos whatsoever. But that doesn't matter because the song is great just the same.
3. Green Day - When I Come Around - Released in 1995, this is a simple song with a very simple solo. It also has a slower tempo that's easy for beginners to pick up.
4. The Troggs - Wild Thing - Released in 1966, this is probably the simplest song in the list. If you happen to have a band with other beginner musician's like you, this should be the first song you do because it's just that easy.
5. Blur - Song 2 - Released in 1997, this is a very dirty-sounding song, but the riffs are easy to learn and the song has a good groove to it. This is another easy one for a band with beginner musicians in it.

5 songs that sound easy but actually aren't

1. Led Zeppelin - Rock And Roll - This is one of those songs where on the surface it sounds simple but in fact has several "layers" to it that give it its sound. Rock And Roll is not for beginners but rather an intermediate-level song.
2. Deep Purple - Smoke On The Water - The intro riff to this song is one that most people play incorrectly, as it's actually played by plucking fingers on higher frets. Also, the solo isn't easy and when the lyrics start, that's the part that confuses a lot of players. This, like Rock and Roll is an intermediate-level song.
3. Led Zeppelin - Stairway To Heaven - This is absolutely not a beginner's song. It requires knowing how to fingerpick properly, an understanding of proper chord structure, knowledge of how to play an acoustic guitar properly, switching from acoustic to electric, and a whole bunch of other things. There are fortunately many YouTube tutorials on how to play this song, but for a beginner this is a very frustrating one to learn. I would consider this song advanced-level, and also know this one is very tough to perform live, so I wouldn't go near it.
4. ZZ Top - La Grange - A whole bunch of guitar players play this one wrong - even the ones that know what they're doing. There are subtleties throughout this song that require studying it closely in order to get it right. The reason it's not for beginners is because it's a swing and not a straight rock beat, which for beginners is a little too much. This is an intermediate-level song.
5. Guns 'N Roses - Sweet Child 'O Mine - There have been countless beginners who have tried this song and realized quickly that this song isn't simple, because it isn't. I place this song into the advanced-level category mainly because of the intro that requires high-fret playing, knowing how to get that sound properly and the solos involved as well. If you're a beginner guitarist, tried this song and said, "Wow, this is hard to do..", you're right. Eventually, yes you will be able to play this - but it'll take a while. Go with the simpler songs first and master those before trying to learn Sweet Child O' Mine.

Rich's recommended guitar gear for beginners

I get asked a lot what I recommend for beginner gear because a lot of beginner players see my videos featuring Squier brand guitars, known as "student guitars" by many, and want to know what they should use to get a sound like I get.

Well, in order to get my sound, it requires a lot of practice. However it is true you should get off to a good start by getting the right gear that's not too expensive.

Effects (expensive)

What I use is a DigiTech GSP 1101. This is a highly sophisticated guitar effects processor. I prefer rack units because everything is in one unit instead of being separated into many pedals.

I honestly don't recommend this for beginners because it's complicated by nature. Everything is in the DigiTech and for a beginner it can be very overwhelming. You are better off going with the simpler stuff first.

Effects (inexpensive)

The best type of effects to have are those that work with your amp, with your computer or with headphones. Pedals are great and all that but sound terrible when going to the computer, so you want something that can do it all.

My standard recommendation here is the Line 6 POD. There are several models available.

If you're looking for something very inexpensive, start with the Pocket POD Express. This thing is very easy to use.

The next step up from the Pocket POD Express is the Pocket POD Guitar Multi Effects Processor. This one has more features in it and also has an easy-to-read digital display right on the front of it. This POD is arguably the most feature-filled effects processor for the cheapest possible price.

After that comes the POD XT, and then the POD X3. You're getting into expensive territory here, and these are somewhat complicated to use compared to the lower-priced PODs.

Amplifiers

Beginners want a practice amplifier that's small, easy to carry around and has some good volume to it.

The first thing to know is to not shop for tube-type amplifiers. Tube-type even in the smallest form are all expensive. You want to go with a solid state combo, or better yet solid state combo with on-board effects to save some money (if you have an amplifier with effects, then you probably don't need the Line6 POD). The "combo" means that the amplifier head and the cabinet are just one box instead of two.

Here are my recommendations for small combo practice amps:

• Peavey Audition
• Kustom KG1
• Fender Frontman 10G

What amp do I use?

I use a significantly larger Fender Frontman 212R. This is a very LOUD 100 watt solid-state combo amplifier and it's heavy - but still smaller than a traditional half-stack and has enough volume to be played in a club easily. It has spring reverb, two channels (clean and distorted) plus an additional "More Drive", meaning this amp can do rock, hard rock and heavy metal easily. It crunches wonderfully at any volume.

I would only suggest getting the 212R if you plan to play out. If you want something for your bedroom or college dorm room, the 212R is too big for that.

What about half-stack and full-stack amplifier head/cabinet setups?

Nice to have, but not cheap. Shop around for them if you wish, but remember that the cabinets are big, even if just a half-stack setup and you need a truck to move that thing around from place to place. If it's just you using it and you have no help to move those big 4x12 cabinets around, you'll regret having bought one.

What about tubes?

I don't recommend tubes for beginners. And personally I'm very anti-tube because the technology is unreliable. Solid state never gives you any problems. You never have to wait for the amp to warm up (turn on and go), you don't have to "juice it" just to get "that sound" out of it and solid state can take much more punishment than tubes can.

You may hear some guitar players blab on about how tubes are the only thing worth using and so on. Remember this: If you've seen my videos, not a single one of them was recorded using any tubes. All of that was solid state. And for you heavy metal fans out there, Pantera's Dimebag Darrel didn't use tubes either as his amps and effects were all solid state.

Guitars

One of the questions I am asked the most is, "What guitar should I get?"

This answer is based on what type of music you like to play. This will tell you what pickup configuration you should get.

Pickup Configurations

The three most common pickup configurations are SINGLE-SINGLE-SINGLE (SSS), HUMBUCKER-SINGLE-SINGLE (HSS) and HUMBUCKER-HUMBUCKER (HH).

It does not matter what the color of the pickups are as that does not affect their sound.

Which pickup configuration is right for you?

If you plan to play mostly rock and metal, the best configuration is HH.

If you plan to play mostly blues and jazz, the best configuration is SSS.

If you're NOT SURE what kind of music you want to play, buy a guitar with an HSS configuration, as it is the one that can play the most styles of music. The humbucker in the bridge position allows for rock and metal, and the middle and neck single-coil pickups allow for blues and jazz.

"OK, I know what configuration I want. What guitar should I get?"

For SSS, the Squier Bullet Strat is the best for the money. It's inexpensive and well-constructed. There are also many color choices available.

For HSS, the Squier Bullet Strat HSS is the best for the money. Again, it's inexpensive and well-constructed.

For HH, here are a few you can check out that are inexpensive and well-made:

• ESP LTD Viper-10
• Epiphone SG Express
• Ibanez GRX20
• Jackson JS1R Dinky

My suggestion is to try out as many guitars as you can before buying, even if you're not that good of a player. Concentrate on how the guitar feels both while sitting down and standing up.

Is it better to try a guitar in a store rather than order it online from the internet?

YES. ALWAYS. No two guitars are made the same even if they are the exact same brand and model. Whenever you can, try the guitar in the store first before buying it.

Picks

Guitar picks come in many shapes and sizes, but what matters the most is the thickness and if it's smooth or textured.

The best thing to do is to go to your local guitar store and buy a bunch of cheap picks. Buy some thin ones, thick ones, medium-thickness and so on. Get whatever is cheap. It is most likely true all the picks you get will be smooth to the touch.

When you get home, experiment with the picks you bought and see which one you like best based on how it feels when playing. It will probably take at least a week before you know which one you like the most.

Does the pick slip out of your fingers when playing?

If the answer is yes, then you need a textured pick. If the answer is no, continue to use smooth picks.

Do you play mostly rock and metal?

If the answer is yes, you will probably prefer thicker picks compared to thinner ones because rock and metal music usually requires harder picking.

What do I use?

I use a medium-thick textured pick to avoid slippage. The pick I always buy is the Dunlop Tortex in .88 size (the green one), commonly known as simply "Tortex 88s".

"I like the Tortex but I don't know which one to get"

If you think getting the Tortex is a good idea but are unsure which would best suit your playing style, buy the .73 size (yellow), .88 size (green) and 1.0 size (blue). One of those three should be to your liking. The .73 is easy to bend. The .88 bends a little, but not much. The 1.0 is very difficult to bend by design and has the least flexibility of the three. Many rock and metal players prefer the 1.0 because of this because it makes for easier "chugging" when playing riffs.

"Will I have to custom order Tortex picks?"

You shouldn't have to. They should be in your local guitar store.

"Is Tortex the only textured pick out there?"

No, there are other brands. The next time you are in the guitar store, ask the guitar sales guy what brands of textured picks he has for sale.

I made a pick out of a CD. What thickness is that?

That's about the size of a 1.0mm pick. Maybe slightly thicker. If you did make a pick out of a CD and said to yourself, "Yes, this is the right thickness for me, but I want a textured version of this", buy the Tortex 1.0 (blue) and the 1.14 (purple). One of those should very closely match the thickness of the CD-made pick.

How do I know when to replace picks?

When the tip starts getting very round. On the Tortex, when you play with it, the lettering will wear off and that's normal - but that's not an indicator you should throw it out when that happens. Only replace picks when the tip becomes so round that it becomes difficult to play with it. Believe me, you will know when it's time to replace a pick.

Strings

The first thing to know here is that there is a big difference between ELECTRIC and ACOUSTIC strings. What I'm going to concentrate on is here ELECTRIC, as in the kind that go on electric solid-body guitars like the Squier Stratocaster.

Remember, you should NOT put electric strings on an acoustic guitar, and the reason is because they will buzz like crazy from being too light and have a very thin sound. Acoustic strings are made from different metals (like bronze) so they can ring out more and project better on an acoustic instrument. Similarly, you should not put acoustic strings on an electric guitar because the sound will be "muddy".

If you are just starting out on guitar or you're just unsure which type of string will work best for you, I suggest buying two sets. One set of .009 to .042 (known as "9 gauge") and a second set of .010 to .046 (known as "10 gauge"). The higher the number, the thicker the string. This means 9 gauge is thinner and 10 gauge is slightly thicker.

If you have absolutely no idea what brand of string to go with, I suggest the following:

For 9 gauge: D'Addario EXL120

For 10 gauge: D'Addario EXL111

Which gauge should you try first? The 10 gauge.

"How will I know which gauge is better for me?"

The gauge that hurts your fingers less and sounds best to your ears will be the one to go with.

When you know what your preferred gauge is, try different brands

There are many brands of guitar strings. Ernie Ball, DR, Elixir, Fender, GHS and so on. Experiment with different brands to see which you like best.

Does price dictate the quality of string?

No. What matters concerning price is the technology of the string and what the string is made out of. Some are plain steel (cheapest), some have nickel content (average-priced), some have a special coating on them (expensive), and so on.

Go with the plain and nickel-content strings first like the D'Addarios mentioned above, and don't spend too much until you're sure what gauge and feel you like before any other consideration.

"When I find the brand I like best, should I buy a whole box of them?"

NO. Only buy what you need. If you let guitar strings sit for too long even when still in the box or sleeve, they will rust. On average, a new set of strings in its package left alone even in a perfectly dry room will start to rust in 30 to 60 days. You'll see the rust on the thinner strings first and it will look like dark lines along the string - and that's no good to install on a guitar at that point; they will have to be thrown out and the money you spent on them is wasted.

"How will I know when to change strings?"

When the strings sound dull, or they lose their tuning quickly, or they start to show discoloration/rust.

Special considerations for specific guitars

Stratocaster guitars from Fender or Squier come from the factory installed with 9 gauge strings, and it's generally true that Strats do play best with 9's on them.

Les Paul and SG guitars from Gibson or Epiphone usually come from the factory with 10 gauge strings installed because they suit the neck better.

If you have a guitar that isn't a Strat or Les Paul type, try the 10 gauge first.