Installing guitar strings on Fender vintage style slotted tuners properly
This is really easy once you know how to do it.
The one thing about vintage style Fender slotted tuners that a lot of people get flat out wrong - including many presenters in YouTube tutorial videos - is figuring out how much slack you need to get the proper amount of string wraps around the tuner post.
Why do you need to figure out how much slack to use?
The way strings are installed on these type of tuners is that the string is inserted into the center of the post. You can't just insert the string out of the package because you will end up wrapping too much string. This results in overlap and causes tuning problems.
The string must be snipped first, and that's where most guitarists run into the problem of figuring out how much string to snip off first.
Why is it such a problem figuring out how much string to snip off?
Guitar strings don't all come in one universal length. In fact, most string makers use varying lengths. Some ship their sets with really long G strings. Others ship sets with short high-E strings. There's hardly any consistency from string brand to string brand.
The absolute easiest way to determine the correct amount of string to snip every time is to do the following:
- Pull the string through the body so the ball end is as far as it will go.
- Pull the string through the nut
- Pull the string through the tuner post
- Hold the string at the tuner post with the left hand
- Hold the string at the nut with the right hand
- With the right hand, pull the string from the nut to the 2nd fret. The left hand stays where it is and you slide the string through your left hand fingers.
- Snip the string at the tuner post
- Insert string into the tuner post
- Continue to install string normally
When doing this, you will get the correct amount of string to clip off every single time. No more guessing.
Do you absolutely need to go back two frets? No. You can get away with going back one fret for fewer wraps around the post or three frets for more wraps. But generally speaking, going back two frets will get the correct amount of wraps around the post every time.
I made a video on this if you want to see how it's done.
Is the ESP LTD F10 the ugliest cheap electric guitar?
This guitar definitely won't win any beauty contests.
The first thing I'll say about the ESP LTD F10 is that in all honesty, it doesn't sound bad. Truly, it doesn't...
...but I swear, you could do so much better than this, even staying within the same brand. The F10 is cheap but the ESP LTD Viper-10 is cheaper by 10 bucks and looks better. Or, for the same money as the F10 you could get the ESP LTD MH-10, which again looks much better.
Why does ESP keep making the LTD F10? I have no idea. It is the fugliest guitar from the LTD brand and has been for years.
I can only assume this guitar is still made because it must be selling. There obviously must be buyers out there that really like that jagged double cutaway look.
Would I ever own this guitar personally? Not unless one was given to me. Like I said, even when staying within the LTD brand, there are other choices that look much better.
My personal favorite under $500 from the LTD brand is the black and gold EC-256 model. Gold hardware from stem to stern and full body and headstock binding. And it has push-pull electronics which you don't see often on models with gold hardware.
But as for that F10... no. Just no. Yes, it is the ugliest cheap new electric guitar for sale right now from a major brand.
If you want a guitar that will truly wow people with its appearance, Ibanez is killing it right now in that department. See the Ibanez Axion Label S671ALB in Blue Chameleon or in Black Aurora Burst Gloss. Where rock/metal guitars are concerned, those get noticed. Not cheap, but that's understandable since Axion is loaded with all the good stuff.
Fender "White Beauty" Stratocaster
I can tell that the Fender Blacktop Stratocaster HHH was distinctly inspired by another guitar.
Electric guitars with three humbucker pickups in them are more for looks than for sound. This is not to say that all guitars with three pickups are bad. Obviously, having three pickups works for the regular Stratocaster. But having a humbucker placed smack in the middle of the body doesn't really do much, tone-wise.
But it looks cool.
I call this Stratocaster a "White Beauty" because of the existence of the Gibson (or Epiphone) Black Beauty Les Paul Custom. That particular guitar is of course black, but also has three humbuckers and all the hardware is gold. This Strat is exactly the same except it's white (Olympic White, specifically), hence why I call it White Beauty...
...but I totally understand why the headstock is black. Were it color matched Olympic White like the body, that wouldn't look right. A gold Fender logo on a white headstock doesn't work. Squier in fact tried this with a few models in the past, and nope, not a good look.
This guitar carries its look fairly well. Usually it's true that Strats and gold hardware don't mix, but the combo on this guitar does work.
Fortunately, the price for one of these won't break the bank. It is a Mexico build so it's under 4 figures. And because of how unique it is, yes it does have collector value.
Technically, the name for this guitar is the Fender FSR Mahogany Blacktop Stratocaster HHH. It has a mahogany body, "Blacktop" because of the humbuckers and skirted amp knobs, and HHH because of the three humbucker pickups. But Fender White Beauty Stratocaster is a much better name for it, because that's what it is.
Does a 2-pickup version of this exist?
Yes. Well, mostly. There is a black-black-black (black body, black pick guard, black headstock) Fender FSR Mahogany Stratocaster with all-gold hardware. Two humbuckers, looks very cool. And it's 50 bucks cheaper than the White Beauty.
The 4 grits of sandpaper every guitar player needs
It's generally a good idea to have sandpaper around to perform minor guitar repairs and maintenance. But you need to know the grits to have and why.
Ask any luthier how many different grits of sandpaper you'd need for basic guitar maintenance and he'd probably say six. I say you can get away with four. I'll list them below and explain why you would need each.
220
Grit 220 is the roughest sandpaper as it has the lowest number.
The only time I ever use this stuff is for when I need to get rid of a high fret whenever I find one using a fret rocker and notched straight edge. In my experience, using any grit higher than this to cure a high fret just takes too long. A few quick passes of 220 gets a high fret leveled fast before moving on to the next grit.
HOWEVER... this is only for high frets that are really obvious. If you only need to remove a small amount of fret material to fix a high fret, start with the next grit instead, which is...
400
Grit 400 is what I use when the intent is not so much to remove material but smooth things out.
This is the grit I would go to right after using 220 on a high fret to get rid of the rough marks. Or, I use this first if smoothing out a slightly-high fret since 220 would take off too much.
600
Grit 600 is one I consider safe for use on some synthetic materials.
An example of what I mean is a guitar nut. There are times when a nut on a new guitar, while properly flush to the edge of the neck, will have sharp edges on the treble side. And you'll feel that every single time you slide down the neck to play an D major, E major, A minor and so on. Your index finger hits that edge and it gets annoying quick.
All it takes to cure this is masking off the wood around the nut, then lightly sanding the edge of the nut (not the slots) and ta-da, now it's properly smooth.
1000
Grit 1000 is the grit nobody talks about concerning guitar repair/maintenance for some reason. I don't know why this is because this stuff is great to have.
Some would say that right after using 600 you should go straight to using 0000 steel wool for polishing. I disagree. Having the 1000 is useful before going to the steel wool.
For example, that sharp-edged nut I just talked about? If all you have is a tiny amount of sharpness there and need to smooth an edge very slightly, that's where 1000 is great to have. This is especially true if you're too scared to smooth a nut edge with 600. If 600 seems like too much (trust your instincts), use the 1000 instead.
I also think 1000 is good to have for getting rid of a very small amount of fret sprout. Sometimes sprout happens in very little amounts where 600 would take off too much and anything over 1000 won't take off hardly anything at all. 1000 is that "happy medium" grit that really works well both for metal and synthetics.
0000 steel wool
I just mentioned this above. Not a sandpaper, obviously. But you need this, and basically for only one reason. Metal polishing. This stuff makes frets gleam like new and takes off no fret material. People see "steel wool" and get scared of it. Don't be. This is not like the kitchen scouring pads whatsoever. 0000 steel wool feels like cloth. Totally safe to use on guitar frets.
Just make sure to mask off the wood before polishing.
I keep going back to the Casio 593 (F-91W and A158)
Try as I might, I can't stay away from this thing. And I'm okay with that.
At 40 I decided to start getting into watches. Never did I buy anything expensive. In fact, the most "expensive" purchase I ever made to date was for a Seiko SNK803 back in 2016 for $56.11 total (which is now significantly more). I returned that watch because I couldn't get used to the busy dial it has.
There are only two watches I wear now. My Casio A158 gold tone and gray/black F-91W. These are both the exact same watch that use module 593. It's the A158 that gets the lion's share of wrist time.
It used to be that I wanted a watch that did everything, but now I value comfort and legibility over features. The A158 is basically the lightest, thinnest, easiest-to-read and most comfortable watch that exists that has a stainless steel bracelet on it. The only other watch that is lighter and even more easier-to-read is the F-91W.
Legibility is a big reason I keep going back to module 593 Casio watches. Out of every digital watch that exists, the module 593 watches have virtually zero display washout. I'm surprised people don't talk about this more. That display is so clear and viewable from any angle. You do not have to look at the display head-on to read it. It can be tilted way back and still be read with total ease.
The only watch I know of that has greater legibility than the A158/F-91W where lower priced timepieces are concerned is the analog Timex T20041 "Easy Reader".
And the only way after that to go even more legible is just about anything by Mondaine. It's more expensive but most models have crazy-good legibility with several sizes available to fit all wrist sizes from skinny to large.
One of these days I will buy myself a Mondaine. I just recently added it to my wish list. I do want one because I love the ultra-high contrast of the dial.
However, until that day comes, I'm fine wearing my nicked up A158.