Graffiti Yellow Fender Stratocasters
This is a cool color from Fender for those who want something different.
I'm writing this due to an email I received from someone who was thinking about buying a Fender ST62 Japan Stratocaster in this color and wanted to know some information about it. From our conversation I figured I might as well write something up on it here just in case anyone has interest in this particular color for the Strat.
The first time I saw Graffiti Yellow was on either a late 1980s or early 1990s Fender Stratocaster Plus model. It's one of those colors that's bright and bold, but not "neon" color as some people think it is. The GY color is ever-so slightly muted so it suits the guitar better.
The oldest GY Strat example I've seen only in pictures is from 1987. As for whether 1987 is the actual year GY was first offered, that I don't know.
GY at the time I write this is only available new on Fender Custom Shop models. Prior to that it was available on Fender Japan ST62 and the aforementioned Fender USA Stratocaster Plus model. The USA versions have a roller nut, Lace Sensor pickups and two-point bridge with offset block saddles. The Japan versions have the regular 6-screw bridge, traditional pickups and a traditional nut.
As for which one I personally like better, I'd take the Japan version because I prefer more traditional Strat builds.
You can find GY Strats from the late '80s all the way into the mid-2000s. As far as I know, GY was never a regular run production color. GY was always a limited run finish.
Was there ever a Squier in GY? I've never seen one. The closest Squier ever got to that color was Arctic White, but that's definitely not GY as it's several shades lighter.
Should Graffiti Yellow become a regular production color?
No. I actually enjoy the fact GY isn't a regular color option. It's a special thing to see a GY Strat because they don't appear that often.
However, it would be nice to see an FSR (Fender Special Run) Strat and/or Tele, preferably as one of the more affordable models. Fender Mexico could easily make a limited run of GY Standard Series guitars.
If not Fender, seeing a Squier FSR of GY guitars would be cool too. As said above, I've never seen one, and I believe if Squier did do GY as a limited run, it would be the first time it ever happened.
How I became a "Squier guy" part 2
It's been almost 6 years since I last wrote about this, so let's catch up.
Way back in 2012, I was a Strat guy and wrote about how I preferred Squier over Fender. Some things have changed since then while others have stayed the same.
The things that have changed since I wrote that article is that I don't own the Schecter anymore (sold it years ago), and I don't really care for Stratocaster guitars at this point. I switched over to the Jazzmaster, and as of recent have taken a strong liking to the Telecaster. At the time I write this, I have a Squier Vintage Modified '72 Telecaster Thinline on order that will be arriving in a few days.
In addition, I have gone through several guitars since that writing. And no, I did not keep all those guitars. Far from it. A general rule I live by is that if one guitar comes in, one must go out either as a trade or sold privately (usually as a trade-out). I am absolutely not one of those guys who has stacks of guitars in cases because I consider that ridiculous. Of the guitars I had but parted with, there were Stratocasters, Telecasters, Jazzmasters, one Les Paul and one Jaguar.
What has stayed the same, although I came to know this in a roundabout way, is that I prefer simple guitars, hence the reason I've had such a strong attraction to the Telecaster lately. The Tele is one of the simplest electrics to own. No vibrato system, 2 pickups, 2 knobs, 6 inline tuners. Nice and easy. Heck, I even got used to the slab style body shape. This is very different from the Jazzmaster guitar, which by nature is very complicated.
The one biggest change however from then to now is this:
Fender guitar feel and sound doesn't agree with me
In all the time I've been playing guitars, I've owned 4 Fenders. One American (Strat), two Mexican (Jazzmaster and Telecaster), one Chinese (the short lived Modern Player Stratocaster HSS).
There have been many times where I've tried out Fender guitars in guitar stores but haven't bought them. Strats, Teles, Jazzes, Duo-Sonics and Mustangs of varying models. I've had my hands on guitars from Fender USA, Fender Mexico, Fender Japan and Fender China. It's probably true I've played over 100 of them.
While Fender makes good guitars, I've been playing Squier for so long that I now know that Fender axes do not agree with me. The necks don't feel right in my hands, the sound doesn't agree with my ears, and no matter how hard I've tried to get along with a Fender, it's just never worked out.
Squier is owned by Fender and is licensed to use Fender designs. But the character of Squier guitars is different compared to Fender. A Squier axe might look like a Fender, but feels different, plays different, sounds different.
Neck
It's the neck where I feel the difference the most. The overall shape is different. Fender neck shapes are thicker, rounder and wider while Squier neck shapes are thinner, slightly "squashed" in the back and have a different shoulder shape. The fret wire size and shape is also different from Squier to Fender.
When I pick up just about any Squier in a guitar store, be it an Affinity, Vintage Modified, Bullet or Classic Vibe, it feels like home to me. I get that familiar Squier neck feel. It doesn't matter if the neck is sealed in gloss urethane, semi-gloss urethane or satin urethane. The feel is there.
When I play a Fender, I don't get that familiar feel. Whether the neck has a Modern C, Vintage Big C, U, V, Soft V or whatever shape it has, my fret hand just doesn't get along with it and I find myself fighting with the instrument.
Sound
Fender, obviously, has higher quality electronic components in their guitars compared to Squier. But most Fender electronics have tonal character that doesn't sound right to my ears. This happens regardless of model, be it Standard, Professional or Elite series.
Squier pickups are, obviously, cheap. But they have what I call "rat tone" to them. The single-coils are usually brash and trebly, and the humbuckers usually have a honky blare. No advanced tech is present in the construction of the pickups. What you get is what you get, and it's usually noisy and clacky. But the pickup sound has character, and that's what makes the sound of the guitar great and fun to experiment with.
Would my opinion change if I played a guitar Fender from the Custom Shop?
No.
There are two main reasons I don't care for USA Custom Shop builds from Fender for two reasons. Price and style.
Currently, the lowest priced FCS guitar available to me new is just shy of $3,000. Too much.
But let's say I did have the money. I still wouldn't want it because most FCS guitars are "relic" styled, which is a style that doesn't agree with me at all.
If I was going to spend big cash on a Fender, I'd get an American Elite model to avoid that relic crapola. Elite models sell for around $2,000 at the time I write this... BUT... the feel and sound doesn't agree with me so I go right back to Squier again.
It's more than just price now
Originally I went with Squier because the guitars were cheap. But now it's solidified as my "my Fender."
I've been through enough Fenders to know that the only way I'd ever truly like one is if one were built using Squier specific shaping.
In other words, I know now that when I want a Fender, I actually want a Squier.
How to find a long lasting cheap electric guitar
You can play cheap guitars and have them last a long time - if you know what to look for.
Take the Fender Custom Shop Merle Haggard Telecaster; it is a ridiculously expensive guitar. However, this Telecaster is very non-standard and without question costs a lot to make. It is tone chambered. It does have a center maple block with alder wings. It even has set-neck construction. No bolt-on.
Something you'll notice on the headstock of that guitar is the "TUFF DOG TELE" decal. This guitar is more than just a pretty face. It's built to take a beating. An absolutely ridiculous amount of urethane is used on this guitar, particularly on the fretboard. On most Tuff Dog Teles out of FCS, you can physically see the urethane prominently on each fret edge on the board. While true this makes it a nightmare to refret, the advantage is that it's basically impossible for this guitar to develop fret raising or fret sprouting...
...which is something you can get on some really cheap guitars for next to nothing.
And that brings me to things to look for on cheap guitars that should make them last longer compared to others.
Thick urethane maple fretboard finishing
It is typical on cheap guitars with all-maple necks to be finished in a very thick coat of urethane pretty much everywhere. Like with the Tuff Dog Tele, this does make refretting a nightmare, but at the same time makes for a very long-lasting neck. This is why made-in-Korea Squier electric guitars built back in the '90s with 1-piece maple necks still work fine today. The electronics may be falling apart by this point (easily replaced for cheap), but that neck is still going strong.
New cheaper guitars with all-maple necks still have the same way-too-much urethane finishing to this day, such as the Squier Classic Vibe '50s Stratocaster. Yes, the neck is super-shiny all over, but that's just the way it is and will in fact stand the test of time.
Does this mean all-maple necks last longer than those with rosewood fingerboards?
On cheap guitars, if the neck has the thick urethane finishing, yes. Fret wear will still be the same, but because the all-maple neck has the thick sealant on both front and back, that also covers the fret edges and helps to prevent raising and sprouting.
In addition, the thick-sealed all-maple neck is the easiest thing to clean. No wood treatment on your part is necessary since the whole thing is sealed and no open grain is present. All that's required are periodic simple cleanings with warm water and paper towels. Doesn't get any easier than that. The only unfinished parts of the neck would typically be where the bolts go in at the heel, the inside of the tuner holes and nowhere else. And since those two parts of the neck are never exposed, there's no need to treat them.
Am I saying to throw out your rosewood-fretboard guitars and go all-maple?
Not at all. I'm just saying if you want a neck that stands the best chance of lasting the longest time (aside from regular fret wear) on a cheap guitar, the all-maple neck with thick urethane sealant is it.
Consider the all-maple neck to be extra "added insurance" to give a cheap guitar the best chance of lasting longer, so to speak.
Sealed tuners with adjustable tension screw and attached with one nut
My preferred tuner is the older slotted style, but I totally admit one of the easiest to deal with is the sealed type with an adjuster tension screw on top, and tightened to the headstock via one big nut.
The Squier Affinity Telecaster has these, as does my Squier Bullet Telecaster. They are, said very honestly, a joy to deal with compared to other tuner types. Easy to adjust and easy to remove from the headstock for cleaning. They also hold tune just fine and work without complaint.
Without question, the best part about these tuners is being able to remove them just by loosening one nut. No tiny screws to deal with. It's the easiest of the easy whenever you feel like cleaning the entire neck including the headstock area.
Are these the longest lasting tuners on cheap guitars? Typically, yes. They're sealed, and that prevents gunk from getting in the tuner gears. The only thing that can really make a sealed tuner fail is not using it for extended periods of time.
Covered pickups
Some cheap guitars like the Epiphone Les Paul Special II have "open coil" pickups. These are pickups that are uncovered on the sides where you can see the coils and the ribbon holding them in place.
Yes, it looks cool and I don't deny that. But it also makes it really easy for dirt and gunk to get in there over time.
Another cheaper guitar, the ESP LTD EC100AT, has covered pickups. This doesn't mean the guitar is any better or worse, sound-wise. But it does mean it's easier to clean and maintain since the covers prevent dirt, gunk or whatever from getting inside the pickups.
The best thing you can have to make cheap guitars work better?
DeoxIT D5 is a small miracle for guitar electronics; this is especially true for cheap guitars.
On cheap guitars, it's usually the electronics where you will find the most cost cutting. Tiny potentiometers, really thin wiring, cheap switchgear and so on.
A very light spray of DeoxIT D5 on all pots and solder points truly does help a cheap guitar last longer because it does what it says on the can. Dissolves corrosion and improves connections.
Better than WD-40? For guitar electronics, absolutely. WD-40 is a lubricant and doesn't exactly dry quickly. DeoxIT D5 on the other hand is specifically formulated for electronics, dries fast, truly does help to keep the gunk and corrosion away and is altogether better.
This is great stuff for fixing and outright preventing scratchy pots and pickup selector switches. And since it's plastic-safe, it doesn't damage pick guards or other plastic parts on the guitar.
Yes, you will spend more for DeoxIT D5. It's worth it. Better to spend the money on a can of this and using it rather than having to rewire/resolder/replace electronics in your guitar over and over again.
Gretsch Electromatic Double Jet Broadway Jade GSR Limited Edition
I thought I saw the coolest looking Double Jet before, but this one is even cooler.
The last time I talked about the Gretsch Electromatic Double Jet was when I saw a two-tone version that I thought was a seriously nice looking guitar.
But this Double Jet in Broadway Jade is even better.
There's no gold hardware on this one, but that's fine because the chrome works so well here.
The look of this one is like a classic Chevy Bel-Air from the 1950s. Gleaming finish, gleaming metal and just an awesome appearance all-around.
As far as the particulars of the guitar is concerned, this body is fortunately chambered basswood to keep it light in weight. Fingerboard radius is 12", frets are medium jumbo size and pickups are Filter'Tron.
The sound is something I best describe as "twangy humbucker". It has a bit of a semi-hollow body humbucker sound to it, meaning more treble and mid with less bass.
Killer guitar as far as I'm concerned, and what a look.
The curse of the small and flat wristed, and how to work with it for watch sizing
There are certain rules I follow to work with how my wrist is shaped these days.
I got into watches in 2011. Then a few years later, I lost a bunch of weight and kept it off. Something I didn't expect to happen was that my wrist shrunk in size.
Back when I was fat, I didn't take a wrist measurement, but after I slimmed down I did.
The way you're supposed to take a wrist measurement for watch sizing is with a tape measure. The thickest point of the wrist is measured slightly loose to accommodate for watch band movement.
My wrist when measured tight is 6.5 inches, but when measured properly for a watch is 6.75 inches. That's only slightly smaller than the average man's wrist size of 7 inches.
No problem, just wear the watch tighter, right? Wrong. I have one of those wrists that's flat on top. And unfortunately, this is the absolute worst wrist shape when trying to find a watch that fits correctly.
Guys with regular rounder wrists that measure 7 to 7.5 inches around can basically wear any watch they want. But if the wrist is under 7 inches in size and a flatter shape, to say it's a challenge finding a watch that fits correct is an understatement.
Things I do to get watches that actually fit my wrist correctly
"Down under" NATO strap method
Take the Infantry IN-019, a dirt cheap diver - although I wouldn't dare take it in the water. This watch has a 42mm case size and 50mm lug-to-lug measurement. It fits me, albeit just barely.
In the standard way a NATO strap is worn, the excess and loops are positioned above the head of the watch. The alternative is to place that stuff under the wrist. For the small-and-flat wristed, this makes the NATO strap look a whole lot better.
The down under way of wearing a NATO strap can and usually does make big watches wear a lot better on small-flat wrists.
No leather, no resin
Steel bracelets and fabric straps work great on small-flat wrists.
With leather it's totally hit-or-miss. Mostly miss. The softer more pliable leather is usually the best bet, but the tradeoff is that it wears out quickly. I simply avoid it.
Resin straps almost never fit my wrist correctly unless it's something very thin and bendy. For example, the strap on the Casio CA53 fits great, but the Casio AE1000 strap does not.
Fabric works great on small-flat wrists simply for the fact you get the proper bend right at the watch case where the strap starts. This is why I can wear the G-SHOCK DW9052V without a problem. But the resin strap version of the same watch? Can't wear it. Doesn't fit right.
I have had good luck with steel bracelets provided the lug-to-lug of the case is under 51mm in length.
Hip to be square
I do regularly wear square shaped digital Casio timepieces that have a steel bracelet on it. They fit great, and square cases sit better atop a flat wrist compared to round.
Round cases, at least on my wrist, seem to move around too much even if the size is correct. Square cases for the most part stay put.
"Stubby" lugs are the best kind
Short, stubby lugs result in a shorter lug-to-lug measurement, which is exactly what a guy needs to find if he has a small-flat wrist.
Generally speaking, the Seiko SKX series is the standard example of something a man with a small-flat wrist can wear without a problem. Whether it's the 007, 009 or whatever SKX it is, you will see those short stubby lugs and know you can wear it.
I will eventually be picking one of these up. It's a 42mm, but the stubby lugs totally makes it work.
And yes, the Infantry IN-019 I have is a similar shape and lug design to the Seiko SKX. But the Seiko is obviously vastly superior in basically every way.
"All dial" is bad
If you see a watch where the bezel is really thin, that's an "all dial" watch.
This Skagen watch for example is all dial.
It's a nice minimalist piece that has a nice elegance to it, and it has a 40mm case size with short stubby lugs. But the drawback is that thin bezel. This means when a small-flat wristed man wears this, it looks like he's wearing a dinner plate on the wrist. Not a good look.
Compare that to the Timex Weekender Chrono. True, the lugs aren't stubby, but the bezel is much thicker. This watch looks smaller than the Skagen, but it's not. It's the same 40mm case size. That's how much of a difference bezel thickness can make in appearance.
It's also a huge plus that straps can be changed out very easily on the Timex. Throw on a NATO, steel bracelet, whatever, it will basically take anything.
This is another one I will be picking up at some point.
Study, study, study
I do tons of research before buying any watch and scour the internet for texts, images and videos before making the decision to buy. And even after I buy, I make darned sure I can return it easily if I find it doesn't fit right.
Most of the timepieces I buy aren't available to try in stores, so I have to buy online. Because of past research, I've avoided buying mistakes. That alone makes it worth it to spend the time researching, because it's really crappy to buy a watch, have it arrive in the mail, get all excited and then immediately disappointed because the stupid thing doesn't fit the wrist.