Coil tap vs. Coil split pickups - which sounds better?
You probably don't even know the difference between the two. You will after reading this.
Take the 2015 Gibson Les Paul Studio in Desert Burst (definitely the best color for the 2015 model year). This guitar does have, in Gibson's own words, coil tapped pickups.
What's the difference between tapping and splitting?
Coil split: A coil isolation technique. In a dual-coil pickup, one coil is literally turned off when split.
Coil tap: A coil winding technique. During the wire winding process of pickup construction, another wire is routed in, usually at the midpoint (e.g. if there were 1,250 winds on a pickup, this wire would be introduced at around the 625-wind mark,) then the rest of the original wire winding process is completed. That midpoint wire introduced is the tapped part, and when engaged will have the pickup produce a distinctively different lower-output sound compared to the regular wire at the end of the pickup windings.
Which sounds better?
Surprise answer! Neither, because they're totally different from each other.
I'll explain.
What is a coil tapped humbucker supposed to sound like?
Many players think "coil tap" means "single-coil sound". That is not universally true. You can set yourself up for some big disappointment if you think all coil tapped humbuckers are supposed to sound like single-coil pickups when tapped.
The fact is that some coil tapped humbuckers sound single-coil-like when tapped, while others don't and instead just sound like vintage low-output humbuckers; it depends on how the pickup manufacturer voiced them during construction.
For example, certain coil tapped humbuckers only do one thing. Lower the output when tapped. That's it. It's almost like switching on or off a boost, with tapped being "boost off".
Then there are other coil tapped humbuckers where it's tapped in such a way to have a very single-coil-like character to it (usually depending where the midpoint wire was introduced during pickup construction.) But rest assured, that humbucker is absolutely not acting like a single-coil pickup when the tap is engaged.
What is a split coil humbucker supposed to sound like?
Like a single-coil pickup, because you are in fact physically turning off one coil when you split.
If you want a humbucker that physically switches to a single-coil pickup via a push/pull knob or other switch, you absolutely want split and not tap.
But in the end...
If you want single-coil tone, which is probably what you were after in the first place, use a guitar with single-coil pickups in it and just skip the split altogether.
On a Gibson, that means to use a Les Paul that has P90s in it. Or if you want to save money, Epiphone makes them too (the "1956" Epiphone Les Paul in particular is quite nice).
Will the P90 Paul have single-coil hum? Of course it will. But it will also have that awesome "growly" P90 tone you're chasing after. And the pickups will also be mated to potentiometers with proper resistance for P90s (which should be a linear taper 300K for the volume pot.)
By the way, I'm not saying not to buy the Gibson Les Paul Studio. If you want one, get one. Just don't expect those tapped humbuckers to sound like real P90s or emulate real Telecaster tone, because that's just not happening.
Also, just as a final side note, Gibson does have this thing called "Tuned Coil Tap" with certain pickups they make, which they directly describe in their words as:
...a gentle, but distinctive, midrange scoop - without thinning the sound or dropping the output [and] also [retaining] most of a humbucker’s hum-rejecting properties.
That is Gibson's words on what that type of tap does to the tone in their guitars with pickups that have Tuned Coil Tap. It's not-exactly-single-coil, not-exactly-humbucker in tone representation. It is, more or less, a "filtered" tone (via capacitor) when the tap is engaged. Is it any good? Heck if I know, because I wouldn't bother and just use guitars with real single-coil pickups in them anyway, which, in fact, I do.
Anyway...
Now you know that split and tap are absolutely not the same. Just remember the following: For single-coil-like sound out of a humbucker that you can toggle on/off, split. For a lower-output voicing option out of a humbucker that you can toggle on/off, tap.
Vintage guitar of the week #16 - 1959 Fender Jazzmaster
Time to talk about an old Jazzmaster.
Concerning a real-deal 1959 Fender Jazzmaster, you're probably thinking, "there is no way a Fender made in '59 can look good today". With a Jazzmaster, it's actually routine that yes, most do in fact still look (and perform) very nicely, and I'll tell you exactly why.
The Jazzmaster way back in the day was Fender's flagship guitar. It was the guitar built to compete with other jazz electrics of the time, and probably had a price tag to match. Not too many people cared for it, but was picked up a few years later in the early '60s by the kids who were making this newfangled noise called surf music.
Really, really old Jazzmasters are usually in really, really good condition. Something you have to remember is that with the exception of surf music players and a very small selection of grunge players in the '90s, nobody wanted this guitar. People saw the crazy switchgear all over it, "weird" vibrato system, "odd" shape and wanting nothing to do with it.
There were several guys who actually bought a Jazzmaster in the '50s and early '60s, only to pluck around on them only a few times, then put in a case and not touch the guitar for decades.
Prior to 2012 when Squier put out the Vintage Modified Jazzmaster (I'm on my second one currently,) I never even touched one of these guitars. The only time I ever saw one was in a guitar store waaaaay in the back where nobody could see. This was back in my teens in the '90s. I barely knew anything about guitars back then, but I do remember seeing that "weird" guitar.
Is it worth it to buy a 57-year-old electric guitar?
I can't say for sure. But what I can say is that out of all vintage Fender electrics, a Jazzmaster is the one I would trust to actually still work like it should today.
While 1959 isn't the oldest Jazzmaster (that would be 1958,) the thing to know about '50s and '60s Jazzmaster guitars is that Fender put a lot of effort into building them. Again, remember that this was Fender's flagship guitar at the time. This was supposed to be a premium jazz instrument and the best electric guitar they could possibly make. Combine that with the fact that many '50s Jazzmasters even to this day were barely played, and that's why I'd trust one over other Fender electrics of the time.
I'll put it another way. The Jazzmaster is the only '50s Fender electric I'd even consider touching from that era. 1958 Strat electronics only had 3-way switching, and I've explained before why I can't stand vintage Tele wiring. The Jazzmaster however pretty much has the exact same electronics today as it did way back in '58.
There are a lot of players who dream about owning a '50s era Fender. I'm not one of them, but if I were, functionality of the instrument counts a lot with me. I know vintage Jazzmaster wiring would agree with me, but vintage Strat and Tele wiring absolutely would not.
If I ever do have the disposable cash to pick up a real-deal vintage Jazzmaster, I'd have to weigh that decision carefully, because in all honesty, I could get a new one built by Fender Custom Shop for the same price (probably for a few thousand less, actually.) This ticks off collectors when I say this, but I don't care because I'm a player and not a collector. Guitars aren't "investments" to me. I buy them to play and not to sit in a case in the closet for 20 years.
Anyway, in the end, yes the '59 Jazzmaster would be a solid purchase for a collector.
Rich's continuing Casio watch adventures
Finding "that perfect Casio watch" is a bit of a tall order. But it can be done if you do some research.
I like Casio wristwatches. I've bought a few over the years, and it's a fun hobby because they're cheap and plentiful.
Who wears a watch anymore?
I do, because pulling out a phone just to get the time is stupid when you can get that information from your wrist faster and easier. That, and smart watches at this point are still stupid because at best, they can only hold a charge for about 5 days before needing a recharge. Oh, and another thing. You have to be really, really careful with a smart watch because they are so easy to ding up. It's just a stupid idea to own one presently. I'm sure they will improve, but that's in the future and not now. Presently, the old style Casio digital wristwatch is still the way to go - if you get the right one. And that's where my Casio watch collecting adventures come into play.
What I want out of a watch...
...is something that shows weekday/day/month on the face, has an alarm, a countdown timer and a nylon or Casio-specific metal watch band.
Now as far as the nylon band version of something like this, I already own it:
This watch is loaded with goodies. 10-year CR2025 battery, 5 alarms, over 30 time zone configurations, countdown timer, weekday/month/day on the face, water resistant, amber backlight, rugged construction. The only thing more rugged than this is a Casio G-SHOCK.
My complaint about this watch however is the way the face is configured. The time can be read just fine, but the smaller weekday/month/day above the time (which can alternate between showing that or auto-scrolling between 4 time zones) has one fatal flaw. The small black separator right above it casts a shadow just enough to where it interrupts the display.
My solution to this was to get another watch, this time with Casio-specific metal band (which means one where length can be adjusted by sliding connector and not adding/removing links,) this one:
While this watch does not have as many features as the AE1200 series, it's very, very close to being perfect. So close it's not funny.
Okay. This one has weekday/month/day on the face, amber backlight, a single alarm instead of 5, no time zones, stopwatch and countdown timer - but - it has a few things the AE1200 doesn't have. The alarm can be set to sound on a specific date. Nice touch. The display is far easier to read than the AE1200, yet is slimmer. The watch can be configured to flash the backlight whenever the countdown timer expires or the alarm sounds. Another nice touch.
So what's the flaw? While the band is stainless steel, the case is frost-painted. While the watch looks really nice, it can get dinged up almost too easily. That's the flaw. If this watch had a stainless steel case, it would be perfect.
An example of two watches that supposedly do have the stainless steel case, but almost no features is the Casio A168W-1 and the A158W-1. Both have identical feature sets. The difference is that the 168 is slightly larger and has the "ElectroLuminescence" blue backlight (similar to Timex's "Indiglo") while the 158 has a standard and fairly useless single bulb backlight. However, I'd still buy the 158 over the 168 just because it has more retro flavor to it.
Both these watches only show time and weekday and day on the face, but not the month. They also both have stopwatches, single alarm and that's pretty much it.
If either of these watches had weekday, month and day on the face all at once, I'd buy one in a heartbeat even though neither has a countdown timer.
For some (for many, actually,) the 158 and 168 are perfect because it's metal everywhere but the face, meaning this watch can have the crap beat out of it for years and still look relatively decent with just a little polishing. You can't clean resin cases like that, but you can with metal cases.
However, I wanted something more that had it all, which leads to this:
This, hopefully, will be the watch. I say hopefully because I have it on order right now.
To note, there are two versions of this. The all-silver-face version is the A500WA-7. Same exact watch, except all silver and the top right map is gray instead of blue.
The A500WA series is basically exactly the same as the AE1200, feature-wise. Same 5 alarms, same multiple time zones, same amber backlight, same countdown timer and so on. The difference is the case, the battery (CR1616 instead of CR2025, which lasts 3-5 years instead of 8-10,) the band and the face.
This watch has no plastic dividers on the face, and the little mini round clock seen on the AE1200 (which by the way is useless) is deleted. This means no cast shadows from plastic dividers since it doesn't have any.
Is the case metal? No. It's what Casio called "chrome plated." I don't know if that means chrome-like plastic or real chrome. But what it does mean is that it can take a beating more than paint can, so I decided to have a go, buy the watch and see what I get.
While the band is significantly wider than the B640WD-1A's is, I already know this watch and have a good idea of what it will feel like when on the wrist.
Am I totally done buying Casio watches after I get this one?
Easy answer. Yes.
I didn't buy all my Casio watches all at once. My watch buying adventures has been something that's been going on for years. When I do buy one, I make sure it's as close to what I want as possible.
I really meant it when I said the B640WD is very close to Casio watch perfection, which is why I kept it. Same with the AE1200 I have. That one is also close to perfection.
This time around, it's the A500WA, and it's my last try at trying to score that watch that I'm totally satisfied with. I'm sure Casio will introduce some new models later that I'll check out in the future, but for now, my hopes are riding on the A500WA. I hope it's a good one.
Why bother going through all this crap?
It's like I said at top, collecting Casio watches is a hobby of mine. It's easy, fun, and most importantly, cheap. :)
On a final note, you'd be surprised how good a metal band watch can look. A classy timepiece with a metal band never goes out of style.
And if you think the metal look is good, Casio of course also has gold with band color to match.
The gold version of the A158 is the A159WGEA-1EF and A159WGEA-5EF.
The gold version of the A168 is the A168WG9.
And, of course, the gold version of the watch I just bought is the A500WGA-1 (black border) and A500WGA-9 (gold border).
Yes, the gold versions always cost more, as they are produced in limited numbers. But Casio arguably does make the best gold-look digital watches that exist. Depending on your taste, that means you may spend over $40 for one. For some, it's totally worth it just for the look.
Cheap guitar of the week #32 - Epiphone Les Paul Special II Rocksmith Bundle
This is the way people learn guitar these days, so you might as well get off to a good start.
Being that Christmas is just a tick over two months away, now is the time to buy a beginner's guitar, guitar pack or bundle, which is what this post is about.
Take an Epiphone Les Paul Special II. You can buy the guitar alone or as a beginner pack with extras like case, amp, picks and so on. There's also a "Slash" beginner's pack that costs a little more, but I admit does look pretty cool.
When you want to get it all in a single bundle that covers everything, that's where the Rocksmith bundle makes the most sense.
Now before continuing, neither Fender nor Squier has a Rocksmith bundle (and they really should), so when shopping for something like this, it's basically all Epiphone Les Paul. Sure, you could piece together a bundle if you wanted to, but in the end it's better to just get the whole thing all at once.
Here's some of what's out there so you know what this bundle costs.
- Playstation 3: Epiphone LP Special II Player Pack Bundle with Rocksmith
- Playstation 4: Epiphone LP Special II Player Pack Bundle with Rocksmith
- Xbox 360: Epiphone LP Special II Player Pack Bundle with Rocksmith
- Xbox One: Epiphone LP Special II Player Pack Bundle with Rocksmith
Okay. Now that you've seen the price, it is true if you bought the guitar pack itself and then Rocksmith for PS3, for PS4, for the 360 or for the One separately, the price is basically the same when put all together.
However, it's decidedly inconvenient to buy it that way.
The only time I would say to buy the guitar pack and Rocksmith separately is if the person you're buying it for is using a PC or Mac and not a gaming console. In that case, you buy the guitar pack and then buy the PC/Mac version of Rocksmith separate since there is not a Rocksmith bundle for PC/Mac users.
Is this Epiphone Les Paul any good?
Yes, but these are the questions buyers of this guitar bundle really want to know:
Is it an adult-size guitar?
Yes.
Could my kid use this in a band?
Yes.
Is the amplifier the bundle comes with loud enough to play with a band?
No (which to any parent is a blessing,) as this is a starter bundle we're talking about here. For a band, you'll need something louder. A Fender Mustang II V2 40-watt would do the job. And if the kid wants something louder than that, make him or her buy it with their own money.
Would this guitar be good enough for taking lessons with a human guitar teacher?
Yes. If you send your kid to take guitar lessons, this Les Paul is plenty good enough for that.
Is the guitar "upgradeable"?
That's a bit of a loaded question. The simple answer is yes, any guitar can be upgraded with better pickups, better tuners and so on - HOWEVER - if buying this as a first guitar for a kid, I strongly suggest not messing with the instrument. If the kid "gets the bug" for wanting to tear apart a guitar and modify it, the better option is to buy a second cheap guitar (preferably a used one off Craigslist) solely for that purpose.
Why do I recommend that method? Because you never get another first guitar.
I still have my first guitar that my father bought me when I was 15. I'm obviously older now. And the reason the guitar still works properly is because other than replacing things on it that just wore out over time, I was smart enough not to mess with it. Other guitars I've messed with, but not my first one.
My suggestion is to specifically instruct any kid you give this guitar to not to modify it in any way. Don't take off the knobs, don't take out any screws, don't do anything except set up the action (or take it to a guitar store and have a tech do it,) change strings and NOTHING ELSE. That will make the guitar last a long time.
Oh, and one other thing. Again, if it's a first guitar, DON'T let the kid trade it out. Like I said, there's never another first guitar. Keep it.
Is there any other choice besides this bundle?
No. Only Epiphone has the Rocksmith bundle option. Fortunately, it's a good bundle for what it is that isn't missing anything. The bundle is designed to be a no-brainer purchase, so even if you know absolutely nothing about how guitars work, you can still buy with confidence, give it as a gift and not worry about it.
The only thing I would do is something I just mentioned a moment ago. If the kid sticks with the the instrument, it is a good idea to take the guitar to a guitar store for a proper setup, which shouldn't run you more than $25 to $30.
And if you don't want to take your kid into "the danger zone" with all those expensive guitars everywhere in the guitar store to drool over, pick a day to take the guitar to the store while your kid is at school, have the store do the work, then take it back home.
5 things that only guitar players believe (that nobody else does)
If you play guitar, the sooner you get what I'm about to say out of your head, the better off you are.
Being I just featured a vintage Fender Mustang recently, I should also say the best looking Squier Mustang is one in Vintage White. You'll like that one. I'm also saying this for another reason, and you can guess what that is when you read the list below (hint: it's the first reason).
1. "The logo on my headstock matters."
Non-musicians absolutely do not care what brand of guitar you play. In the mind of the guitar player, everyone knows the difference between a Fender and a Squier or a Gibson and an Epiphone. Wrong. Only guitar players care and nobody else.
I've said this before and will say it again. DO NOT play for other guitar players. What other guitar players think of the brand of guitar you play DOES NOT MATTER and never did.
2. "Old, beat-up guitars look cool."
If you're in a restaurant and are handed a dirty, rusted spoon to eat your soup with, do you say, "Hey, thanks! This is the coolest looking spoon ever!" Of course not. You recoil in disgust.
Only guitar players think that dingy, grimy, busted-up, nasty looking guitars actually look good. Everyone else thinks they look like total crap, and in fact, the non-musician would believe that since you own a beat-up guitar, you must be too poor to afford a proper, clean one.
Yes, I am saying that a shiny new under-$300 Squier makes you look like you have money while the $over-3,000 Fender "relic" makes you look poor. Let that sit in your mind for a moment.
3. "People like guitar solos."
People hate guitar solos. In fact, there's a fair amount of people who hate guitar solos so much, that even if you play a single note with the slightest bit of vibrato to it, they wince.
A guitar player thinks a solo sounds great. A non-musician thinks it sounds like a cat in heat. I'm not kidding.
4. "I am the most important musician in the band."
Not unless you're the lead singer.
The lead singer is the frontman. Always. If you're not the one singing the lead vocals, you are never top banana. Get over yourself.
5. "Jimi Hendrix was the greatest guitarist ever."
No, he wasn't.
Aside from that, nobody, and I mean nobody outside of guitar players even know who Hendrix was. You ask any girl under the age of 30 if they know of him, and she'll reply right back with, "Jimmy who?"
The same can be said for any famous guitar player you know. Non-musicians don't know who Eric Clapton, Jimmy Page or Eddie Van Halen are. They do however know a good song when they hear one if it has a catchy beat and good lyrics to it. It's the song that matters most and not the artist.