The real reason arcade games were killed
Arcade video game machines were a thing at one point, and now they're all but extinct. There's a reason they were killed, and it's probably not what you think it is.
To begin, if you like arcade games and want one of your own, the only one worth buying is a cocktail table machine. Once of those machines comes typically comes with 60 games. All the classics. Ms. Pac-Man, Galaga, Frogger, Donkey Kong, Galaxian, Dig Dug, Mr. Do, Space Invaders, Burger Time, Centipede, Gun Smoke, etc. They're all there.
There are 3 main reasons why that machine is the best to buy. First, it's new and has a warranty. Second, it ordinarily only weighs 60 pounds (very light compared to a full cabinet and easy to move around). Third, and most important, it's a table, meaning it can be used as actual functional furniture. In addition, it makes the vintage gaming experience much more enjoyable. Have a seat, put a drink on top of it, play and enjoy. Kids would also have fun playing this machine, and of course, cocktail table is the best for 2-player.
One more thing. The price for the machine is a steal compared to an actual real vintage arcade machine. Remember, it's new. No restoration required. No ancient half-working electronics.
Anyway, on to my thoughts on why video arcade games were killed.
On this Black Friday, the hot sellers are of course video game consoles. Nintendo Switch, Xbox One X and Sony PlayStation Pro are the big deals of the moment.
What are the hot video game titles? Pretty much anything Mario, Star Wars or LEGO. Yeah, it's basically the same stuff you saw 10 years ago just with new titles.
At the time I write this, arcade machines aren't dying. They are absolutely dead and have been dead for years. It used to be that you'd find at least one video arcade machine or pinball machine in every department store and diner in town. It also used to be that every mall in America had a dedicated video arcade room, usually also with pinball machines. All those are gone.
The heyday for video arcade machines was the early '80s. Being I was born in the mid-'70s, I only got to see the tail end of arcade machine popularity in the late '80s and early '90s. And I did get to experience some fairly large arcades. Riverside amusement park (now known as Six Flags New England) had a monster sized arcade with somewhere in the neighborhood of 50 or more machines. And that is not an exaggeration. Rows and rows and rows of them in one huge room. When I went to Disney World as a kid, they also had a rather large arcade section.
As a kid, I also got to experience the "perfect arcade room" a few times, which was a dimly lit room of about 20 to 30 machines that had galaxy carpeting everywhere. Weird but cool experience. Dark room, a haze of smoke in the air (everyone smoked cigarettes back then), flashing marquees and screens everywhere and a bunch of different noises from the machines all going off all at once in combination with people talking at the same time.
What made video arcade games truly start declining?
A lot of people blame home consoles such as the Nintendo Entertainment System and Sega Genesis for the decline of arcades.
That wasn't the reason.
There are three main reasons people stopped playing arcade games.
Reason 1: Disrepair
Given that most businesses knew absolutely nothing about arcade machine maintenance and wouldn't spend a penny on them for repairs since they were leased, once one fell into disrepair, it stayed that way.
It was very common to find machines with screen burn-in, loose joysticks, bad buttons, bad steering wheels and gear shift levers that didn't work right, coin boxes with bad springs that didn't register when a quarter was inserted, and so on.
Reason 2: Fights
Nobody ever mentions the fighting but this was a real thing.
I never got into a fight over a video arcade machine, but there were plenty of others that did. Kids would fight over the dumbest things with video games. It happened with adults too sometimes.
Fights happened often enough to where some arcades would actually employ a bouncer just to keep people in check. If you saw a musclehead big dude in a black t-shirt standing in the corner not playing games but just watching everywhere, that was the bouncer. And you knew right then and there that the room wasn't a good place to be and to get the hell out of there.
Reason 3: Greed
This is the main reason people stopped playing arcade machines.
People could deal with half-working machines and the occasional fight that broke out. But when the price-per-play started going up, that's when players said "screw this".
For a long time, the price per play was 25 cents. But then there were machines that appeared where it was 50 cents a play. Double the price. And it just wasn't worth it. No matter how fancy the game, 50 cents for 5 minutes or less of play was just too much.
But it didn't stop there. Machines appeared that were 75 cents a play, $1 a play, and at worst, $2 a play.
It was very common to see those high-priced machines in pristine condition. Why? Easy answer. Nobody played them...
...and that's what killed video game arcades. Instead of getting 20 minutes of play from a dollar, now that only lasted a few minutes. Total ripoff.
Are modern video games suffering the same fate?
Yes and no.
Where console gaming is concerned, yes it is. When greed happens and the price gets too high, people stop buying.
The majority of new console games no matter what the console is are all overpriced. Super Mario Odyssey for example is almost 60 bucks. That turns a lot of people off, myself included.
Where smartphone and tablet gaming is concerned, no it isn't.
Apps for phones and tablets are either free or sell for cheap. Whether iPhone, iPad or Android, there's tons of games out there.
Are they as advanced as console games? Not in the slightest. But the price is right, and that's why people play them more.
If you're a retro gamer...
...don't bother with the arcade machines other than the one listed at top. Seriously, don't. I owned a full size JAMMA style cabinet at one point. It was big, stupid, clunky, ate electricity for breakfast, it's just... no. Don't do it.
The better option is to use a new retro game system. Plug in and go. Easy. And cheap.
It really is all about price
If you're going to game, do it cheap. Or if you're going to spend some decent money on gaming, make very sure it's something that will last a while.
With the cocktail table machine, that will last a good long while and provide years of enjoyment. No question about it.
With modern new consoles, screw 'em. Not worth the money.
With retro consoles, I'd say just pick something where you can get at least a year of play out of it. You'll be spending $50 to $100 for retro stuff, and if that lasts a year, then yeah, you got your money's worth.
Should you buy a Nash guitar?
These are the Fender copy guitars that players both love and hate at the same time.
Nash guitars are all made in the USA, all made with premium woods, all have premium hardware installed, all are finished using nothing but nitro. The model that most who know about this brand are familiar with is the Nash S57.
Guitarists love Nash because you get premium grade guitars at around 40% less (sometimes even less than that) of what you would otherwise pay to get the same from the Fender Custom Shop.
Guitarists hate Nash because as far as I can tell, every one of them is a "relic" (meaning distressed-on-purpose when built), and the vast majority of the models they have are Fender copies...
...and if you're wondering how Nash is able to get away with such a close match of Fender guitars (especially the headstock) without being sued off the face of the planet by Fender, that I can't say. Maybe they have an agreement with Fender and are licensed to use their headstock designs. Maybe something else. I honestly don't know.
The other model Nash fans are most familiar with is the Nash T52. Aside from that, primary models of Nash are T (Telecaster), E (Esquire), S (Stratocaster) and JM (Jazzmaster). Nash's own model is the Wayfarer. They also have "non-traditional" where they'll take a design and do something special with it. An example of that is they sometimes make 12-string T models.
Are Nash guitars passé since so many people hate "relic" guitars?
Here's my take on that.
I do wish Nash would produce at least one guitar that is not distressed at all. They currently don't do this. The closest you can get to a not-distressed guitar is one with "light aging". I went through a bunch of their T models on their web site, and they all have that aging crapola going on.
And if you think you can contact them and request a custom order for a non-distressed model, think again, because they don't do that. Nash states outright that you cannot buy direct from them, so no custom orders. Not possible. The fact they even mention this means some buyers - possibly many - have asked this question before. Is it possible to request a custom order through an authorized Nash dealer? That's also an unknown. Maybe it's possible, but I doubt it.
What this means is that with all Nash guitars, what you see out there is what you get.
There is also something I take into consideration however. There is a niche market for distressed electric guitars. There are players who really like the distressed look but hate the high price of the Fender Custom Shop.
I'll put this in perspective for you. When you buy a relic model from Fender Custom Shop, you're spending some significant coin. When you want that FCS relic, you're going pay for it and pay big. But then there's Nash who has pretty much the same thing and it's almost half the price. In this respect, Nash guitars are a bargain. Remember, these aren't Asian guitars. These are American.
So in other words, a Nash is the closest you can get to a Fender Custom Shop relic model with a much nicer price while still buying an American guitar.
There is something else about Nash guitars that cannot be denied. They are good guitars. Really good, actually. So good that Nash warranties all their instruments for two years (which exceeds the standard Fender 1-year warranty, by the way). Nash is confident enough in their builds to take care of any issues that may happen for an entire 24 months. In this day and age, that's darned impressive.
Am I saying you can buy a Nash with confidence? Yes.
Whether you agree with the idea of distressed guitars or not, Nash does stand by their work. They do have a specific niche they cater to (guys who like distressed guitars without the FCS price tag), do it well, and what you get is truly good. There's just no arguing that point.
My only real complaint is what I said above. I really wish Nash would offer at least one non-distressed model. If they did a Mary Kay S-57 model with no distressing, that for some guitarists would be the perfect Strat look. (And yes I am saying the distressing ruins that guitar, take a look and see for yourself).
How to make it easier to hold bar chords
This type of chord is difficult to hold for some, but there are ways to make it easier.
Three things to note up front:
First, it is okay to write out this style of chord as bar chord. Technically, it's supposed to be written as barre chord. But whether you write it as bar, barr or barre, it all means the same thing and they're all pronounced the same way.
Second, while what I'm about to say will totally work on an acoustic guitar (even for the inexpensive-but-good Jasmine S35), this applies to both acoustic and electric.
Third, I'm going to specifically be focusing on steel-string guitars because that's the kind people have difficulty with when trying to hold down bar chords. An acoustic guitar with nylon strings (such as the Fender MC-1) is by very nature much easier to hold down chords with. But that style of guitar isn't meant to be played with a pick, and the kind people want to know about is the one you can play with a pick, which of course is the steel-string.
Using thin strings
Thinner strings does make it easier to hold down bar chords.
I personally use the next-to-thinnest electric guitar string there is, which is a gauge set from .008 to .038, also known as "extra super light". The only set lighter than that starts with .007, such as this Reverend Willy's set that is .007 to .038. Do I recommend .007? No, I don't. That's too thin, even for me.
Where acoustic guitar strings are concerned, the lightest you can go before the strings start buzzing and flopping all over the place is .010 to .047, such as the D'Addario EXP10 set.
Detuning to Eb
For some people, a simple detune from standard E to E-flat works wonders. The overall string tension is loosened and sometimes that's all you need to do to make it easier to hold down bar chords.
Using a guitar with a shorter scale neck
The standard scale length on most guitars is the Fender standard (even if the guitar is not made by Fender,) 25.5 inches. This is the measurement from the string saddle to the nut and not the entire length of the guitar.
A guitar with a shorter scale length, such as the Epiphone Les Paul with its 24.75 inch scale or the Fender Duo-Sonic with its 24.0 inch scale, will make it easier for you to hold bar chords. A shorter scale length means the overall string tension will be slightly looser compared to using a guitar with a standard scale length.
Lowering the string saddles (if possible)
On most acoustic guitars, there's no way to lower the string saddle mechanically. Your only option there is to physically file it down. But I absolutely do not recommend that unless you're familiar with how to install a replacement saddle. This means knowing how to pull out the old saddle with pliers and then pressing in a new one. That may sound simple but it's almost too easy to seriously screw up your guitar if you've never done it before, so again, I don't recommend it.
With electric guitars, lowering the string height is fortunately easy. It is either done by lowering the entire bridge (like on a Les Paul) or lowering each individual string saddle (like on a Stratocaster or Telecaster.)
You will have to experiment with string height to see what works best for you.
Using a flatter neck bow
This is one that's a little scary for some, because it does require adjustment of the truss rod, and you have to know what you're doing before you do it.
Before continuing, know that this mostly affects just the middle of the neck, as in frets 7 through 12, because that's where the bow is on most guitars.
In other words, if you specifically have difficulty holding bar chords in the 7 through 12 fret range and only there, doing what I'm about to say may help.
If your guitar is properly set up where you can hold chords properly in the fret 1-6 range and the string height is to your liking, but anything after fret 7 gets more difficult, it is most likely true the neck needs a tightening of the truss rod.
What does a tightening of the truss rod do? It will bring the strings closer to the middle of the neck since tightening the rod decreases neck bow, i.e. makes it flatter.
How much should you tighten? Only a small amount. A clockwise 1/4 turn should be enough to bring the strings closer to the middle of the neck to make holding bar chords there easier.
Again, I have to stress to only do this if you specifically have difficulty holding down bar chords in the middle of the neck. If you have difficulty holding down bar chords across the entire neck, try detuning to Eb, try thinner strings, try lowering string height.
"I've tried everything above and I still can't do it"
Follow the advice above and try a guitar that has a short scale neck. I mentioned the Fender Duo-Sonic above, but a very cheap option is the Squier Bullet Mustang. That guitar with an .008 to .038 string set is pretty much as "light and loose" as you can get away with. Set that guitar with low action and a flat bow of the neck and that's as easy as it gets to hold down bar chords where steel-string guitars are concerned.
What are cowboy chords?
Using nothing but cowboy chords is arguably the easiest way to play guitar. And in fact, most people play guitar using nothing but these chords.
Cowboy chord is another name for open chord. It is a chord played on the guitar that uses open strings and only requires three of your fret hand fingers to make (index, middle and ring fingers).
How many cowboy chords are there? Eight. Five major and three minor.
These are the chords:
- E major
- E minor
- A major
- A minor
- D major
- D minor
- G major
- C major
Cowboy chords are used in many songs. Everything from Louie, Louie to Fortunate Son to Sweet Child O' Mine to Take On Me to Another Brick in the Wall to Yellow Submarine... and believe me, I could list many more. Every one of those songs uses a variation of the 8 cowboy chords.
Cowboy chord use is why your only acoustic guitar should be a 12-fret
Where acoustic guitars are concerned, there are the traditional 12-fret kind, i.e. your standard full-size dreadnought or smaller parlor acoustic guitar, and then the cutaway kind that gives you access to frets higher than the 12th.
If you want an acoustic that rings the best (and you should), go with a 12-fret. Chances are very likely you're only going to play cowboy chords on it, maybe use a capo from time to time, and that's pretty much it.
Seriously, think about it. Are you going to do high-fret soloing on your acoustic? Of course not. Get the 12-fret.
Cowboy chord use is the reason many vintage guitars only show wear at the first 5 frets
On both the front and back of the neck, it's usually true that on well-used electric guitars, the most wear is shown from frets 1 to 5. This is totally normal. In fact, it's so normal that it's expected.
It's rare you ever see worn frets after fret #5. And where the back of the neck is concerned, any gloss from frets 1 through 5 will be dulled away after years of use. This is true no matter how the neck was finished, be it nitrocellulose lacquer, urethane or something else. The only real difference is that nitro will flake off and expose the wood grain while urethane won't and instead just show a duller look.
Cowboy chord use is also why it's OK to do a partial refret if the guitar needs it
If you or someone else is going to refret your guitar and all the wear is at the first 5 frets, then a partial refret of the neck is fine. No need to spend the extra money on 21 to 24 fret wire replacements if only the first 5 are worn out.
Yes, there are exceptions to the rule. If on a refret you're going to switch fret material from nickel/silver to stainless steel, you might as well do a full refret there. But for nickel/silver (which the vast majority of electric guitars use), a partial refret is fine. After installation of the new frets, a fret leveling and a proper polishing with 0000 steel wool, you'd never know that new frets were installed at the first 5.
Bass guitars for church and worship players
I don't talk about bass guitars very often, but as much as people say that bass players aren't needed anymore, they are - especially in a worship setting.
The place where you see bassists quite often are in churches. Stage types for churches come in all sizes, from small cathedrals all the way to full blown arena style venues that somewhat resemble a rock show (yes, really).
Bass players look for very specific things with certain basses for use in worship settings, and these are some that fit the bill nicely.
(Note: I'm purposely listing 4-string models but may do an article later on basses with more strings, such as the Schecter Stiletto Studio-6.)
This is absolutely perfect for church playing. The look is right, the EMG 35HZ pickups are right (responsive, quiet and a very nice place to rest the thumb), the shape is right, and most importantly the price is right.
The Stiletto Custom-4 is a no-brainer buy for church bassists.
This is another no-brainer buy for bassists, but for a totally different reason compared to the Stiletto Custom-4. The GSR200 model has two major selling points. First, it's cheap. Second, it's pretty much the best bass for the price it sells for. There are other basses as cheap as the GSR200, but you get the most for the money with the Ibanez. And by "most for the money", I mean "everything works like it's supposed to and won't fall apart in a year".
The other nice thing about the GSR200 is that it's arguably the best cheap bass that covers the most tonal range. Why? The P/J pickup layout and four control knobs (volume and tone for each pickup.) That's actually really good on a bass priced as low as the GSR200 is.
When you look at this one, you'll probably say to yourself, "This looks almost identical to the Ibanez GSR200. Why show it?" The reason is something I guarantee you missed. The P pickup. On the Ibanez, the P pickup is mounted flipped while the Yamaha has a traditional Fender Precision Bass P pickup orientation.
Why does this matter? Because some bassists rest their thumb on the P pickup, and many are used to the Fender style orientation. But then there are other bassists who actually prefer the P pickup flipped because it feels better to rest the thumb with the pickup mounted that way.
Is the P pickup's tone affected based on orientation? No. I'm sure some bass players would disagree with me, but I've never heard a significant difference in a P pickup's tone based on just that.
Oh, and there is one more cool thing about the Yamaha over the Ibanez. Truss rod adjustment. It's at the heel and done so in the best possible way. There's a channel there where you can insert a wrench very easily to make relief adjustments. No need to take the neck off, no truss rod cover plate to remove (it's always open), and you don't even need to detune the strings. The channel was very smartly designed with proper length and a raised "lip" so you have plenty of room to get a wrench in there with absolutely no danger of scratching the body. It really doesn't get any better than that.
Squier Vintage Modified '70s Jazz Bass
You can go cheap and buy the Squier Affinity Jazz Bass, but spend a little extra and you get a much better bass with the VM '70s Jazz from Squier.
The Affinity model gets the job done, but you will probably find yourself fighting with the instrument from time to time, and that's no fun at all. The VM model just outright feels like a proper Jazz Bass. Yes, it's Squier, but it easily captures that "feels like Fender" vibe. Everything is where it's supposed to be and it is a mod-friendly Jazz, so it's ready for upgrades later on.
VM '70s Jazz is one that can easily be used to gig regularly and reliably with. Can't say the same for the Affinity.
If you play bass, you knew the tried-and-true Fender Jazz Bass would make an appearance here, and for good reasons.
The trusty Fender J Standard (and yes I am specifically talking about the Mexico made J) is a bass you can rely on. It just works. But that's not really its main selling point.
What really makes the J Standard a good buy is the unbelievable amount of mods and upgrades out there for it. Unless stated otherwise, anything third party made that "fits Fender Jazz Bass" will fit the Mexico made J.
I'll say it another way. If you want a Fender you can mod, get the J Standard. If on the other hand you have no intention of modding the bass, get the USA made Professional Jazz instead.
What about the more ritzy expensive stuff?
If you're more than just a casual bass player, you've probably drooled over an Alembic or maybe a Sadowsky, Pedulla or Dingwall bass. These are all fine instruments, but are out-of-reach for most bass players. Not everyone has $3,000 or more to drop on an instrument.
My advice for church and worship bassists is to use a bass that looks nice but isn't a trophy queen. Church gigs are still gigs whether you get paid for it or not, and you need a bass that can take a knock.
Remember that getting a ding or a nick in a bass you paid $600 or less for doesn't hurt nearly as much as one you paid over $3,000 for.