My weird offset guitar preferences
I can't do Jaguar, but can do Jazzmaster.
It is totally true that the offset guitar (i.e. offset waist style body shape where upper portion leans toward the neck and the lower leans away from the bridge) does make for a much more comfortable play in the seated position.
Of the offset guitars out there, one I've not tried a long while is a "full" Mustang (meaning Mustang with vibrato such as the Squier Classic Vibe '60s Mustang). That specific guitar is on my to-do list to try out again. The last time I played one was over 10 years ago and I think it was a Fender Japan MG73 Mustang.
As for the Jaguar, yes, I have owned one before...
...and quickly returned it because I felt discomfort on my picking hand palm.
There are a few things going on specific to the Jag that my picking hand really doesn't like.
First are the "shark teeth" on either side of the pickup. Depending on guitar, sometimes these stick up past the pickup cover, sometimes they don't. It's rare that I pick up a Jag where the shark teeth actually pose a discomfort problem however.
Second are the rounded ears of the Jag pickup covers that can stick up out of the pick guard. Jazzmaster pickup covers have 4 little ears but they're on the sides, whereas ears Jaguar pickup covers have two larger ears on the top and bottom.
Third are the pick guard screws. One screw in particular. The Jag has one placed just ahead of the bridge right where the palm can rub on it, whereas the Jazzmaster has the same screw further back that's placed almost directly above the bridge and out of the palm's way.
When you look at the Mustang with vibrato, yeah it has that same annoying pick guard screw just ahead of the bridge... maybe. I don't know at this point if that screw in the Mustang would annoy my picking hand or not since I've not played a "full" Mustang in over a decade. Maybe that screw is placed where it wouldn't bother me. I won't know until I try the guitar later.
Oddly enough, the Telecaster vintage style "ashtray" bridge doesn't bother me at all. That's not an offset guitar, but that bridge style is a good example of something that annoys a lot of players because it has prominent metal "flaps" that stick up. If for example you look at the Fender American Vintage II 1963 Telecaster, oh yeah, those period correct flaps are on the top and bottom of the bridge are there just like they're supposed to be. It doesn't bother me in the slightest to play one of those. But I know most players would prefer the totally flat Fender Player Telecaster bridge instead. The dirt cheap Squier Sonic Telecaster also has the flat Tele bridge.
Since I know some would ask, what was the point of those flaps on the Tele bridge? Answer: To place a bridge cover if you wanted to. That cover is where the "ashtray" nickname came from. Guys would take off the bridge cover and literally use it as an ashtray. The bridge itself was never the ashtray part.
And why did Fender even offer a bridge cover? Answer: It's most likely due to the fact that many steel guitars (an inspiration for the original Telecaster design) had a cover to hide where the strings were installed to add a little more class to the instrument.
Back to the Jag.
It's that one pick guard screw and pickup cover ears that make the Jag a no-go for me.
On different Jaguars, yes, I said the only thing holding me back from the Contemporary Jaguar HH ST was the scale length. But then I remembered, "Oh, right... forgot about that pick guard screw thing." It's really easy to forget little-but-important things like that when you've not played a certain style of guitar for a while. So while true the HH ST doesn't have the pickup ears, it still has that annoying - for me - screw.
There's really only one proper way to fix that pick guard screw problem. It's not taking the screw out (looks dumb), nor is it switching the screw to flat top instead of rounded top (also looks dumb). To get everything all symmetrical and looking nice, I'd have to custom order a new pick guard with every hole drilled except that one. Or just get a guard with the pickup holes but not screw holes and drill them myself. Either way, ridiculous. I'm not doing that.
Yes, there are Jags with no pick guard such as the Modern Player from 2012, but "Full Jag" requires all 3 plates of the pick guard to be there so both the rhythm and lead circuits can be housed correctly. If you go all-in with Jag, all of the pick guard stuff has to be there and that's just the way it is...
...hence why I'll be trying a Mustang next. The Jazzmaster I just bought is staying, to be sure. But I'd still like to try a different offset guitar just to see if there's something other than Jazzmaster that suits me. That might be a Mustang, or possibly something else entirely like a Guild Surfliner.
I bought a Jazzmaster. Again.
This was the only way to get a "full kit" Jazzmaster at the price I wanted (mostly).
As I just said recently, I wanted to go Jazzmaster again and I had entertained the idea of either buying a J Mascis model or building (as in parting together) one myself.
As luck would have it, there was something else available. A Squier Classic Vibe '60's model in Daphne Blue that was $80 off. I could not say no to that. It was at a local Guitar Center, brand new, in a color I liked, and there was absolutely no way I could build one that would beat that price.
I mostly got the price I wanted, meaning I think I spent 30 bucks too much. In fact, I know I did, because Guitar Center did in fact have another Squier CV '60s Jazzmaster model in Surf Green that was $30 less... but was out of stock. Oh, well.
Aside from price, there was another reason I passed on the J Mascis model. It has what I consider to be "wrong spot" placement for the vibrato system. Fender has this going on with a few models and the Mascis Squier has the same thing. The vibrato is physically placed closer to the bridge. I have no idea why. But what I do know is that when I used that differently spaced system, it doesn't feel right.
I've not even owned the guitar a day, but oh yeah, it feels very familiar, almost like it hasn't been years since I owned one. Some guitars are like that. You pick one up and it just feels like home.
Here's a quick rundown on what I mean by a "full kit" Jazzmaster: It means a Jazzmaster where there are two circuits with full controls, a 1meg linear taper volume control potentiometer, a 1meg audio taper tone potentiometer, Jazzmaster specific pickups (meaning not P90), and a properly spaced vibrato system.
Getting a full kit Jazzmaster from anybody other than Fender or Squier is a big ask. More often than not, what you'll find are half-Jazzmaster guitars. There will be a lead circuit but no rhythm circuit, or the pots will be wrong, or the vibrato system will be wrong, or the pick guard style will be wrong. And so on, and so on.
At the price I got mine for, it was an easy decision to commit and make the buy.
Possibly the perfect guitar (for some)
Have you ever come across a guitar that answered ALL the requests guitar players have been making for years? This guitar is one of them.
Take the Squier Contemporary Jaguar HH ST.
"Oh. Another Squier..", you may say.
Before you push this one aside, don't. This is absolutely not just an appearance package. What you're getting here is Fender Aerodyne level features and build quality here.
Yes, this is one of those guitars where if it said "Fender" on the headstock, the price would be well north of $1,000, but it's nowhere near that.
This Jag is Strat, Tele, Jazzmaster and Les Paul together into one guitar.
Pickups are hot "Atomic" humbuckers which can be split and which can be used in series OR parallel at the flick of a switch.
The neck is close to a "Modern C" shape Fender style, but with 24.0" scale length and 12" fingerboard radius - and it's roasted maple on the back.
Tremolo? None. Vibrato? Also none. This means maximum tuning stability from the Gibson-esque bridge and tailpiece.
And speaking of which, this is all top-loader, making it not only ridiculously easy-to-play but ready for thicker strings as well.
Tuners are vintage on top with the open slot (old school) but sealed in the back (new school). Best of both worlds.
The control knobs are proper metal instead of those awful plastic pointy knobs that are typical to Jaguar guitars.
The headstock logo is silver and raised - just like on the Fender Aerodyne guitars.
You'll see two colors from the listing. Skyburst Metallic and Shoreline Gold.
I almost bought this.
Yeah, I was really close to going for this one.
I didn't go for it because I prefer the Jazzmaster 25.5" scale over the Jag 24.0". That's literally the only reason I passed on this. Everything else is spot-on.
If there ever were a modern Squier Aerodyne, this Jag is absolutely it.
Why I haven't bought a guitar in a while
This mainly has to do with price, lack of information and going custom since nobody builds exactly what I like - that I know of.
While true I can get dirt new cheap guitars easily, I'm at that point in my guitar playing life where to get what I want, I have to build it. And by that I mean part together a guitar.
The main issue I have is getting a good neck that doesn't break the bank. Yes, you can get cheap guitar necks all frickin' day as well, but the thing I run into often are two pieces of information NOT listed. The first is neck shape and the second is neck depth.
Shape is easy enough to understand. For electrics, it's C, D, U or V. Unfortunately, this bit of info which is rather important isn't stated on a ton of guitar neck listings.
Neck depth information is just 2 numbers, but again, rather important ones. The 1st fret depth measurement and the same for the 12th fret. An example of this would be 0.82" 1st fret neck depth and 0.96" 12th fret neck depth. Sometimes you'll see these measurements in millimeters.
On the vast majority of listings for guitar necks, you'll either get no info on shape or depth, just the shape info, or just the depth info.
What would the IDEAL guitar neck listing be?
That's an easy answer. Type (so you know what body type it will attach to), neck shape, 1st fret and 12th fret depth, fret type/shape (e.g. medium jumbo, narrow/tall, etc.)
Example: Fender USA/Mexico Stratocaster compatible neck, C shape, 0.82" 1st fret, 0.96" 12th fret, 6105 Medium Jumbo Narrow frets (which is .095" x .047" for those interested for nickel/silver or stainless steel).
Yes, I have considered custom ordering a neck...
...but I can't justify spending $300+ on such a thing. That's for just the neck with frets. No tuners and no nut.
Furthermore, this creates a bit of a rabbit hole. If I spend that kind of scratch on a neck, then of course I'd have to spend a mint on a decent guitar body, electronics, and... whoops now I spent over a grand.
Nope, not doing that.
I have another problem in that...
...I'd like to go Jazzmaster again. And WOW is it difficult finding a low-cost Jazzmaster body with both the upper and lower bout routs.
I'll explain.
Jazzmaster/Jaguar bodies can be bought, obviously. The problem is that most of them only have the lower bout rout, which is the body cavity under the pickups. A proper Jazzmaster also has another cavity over the pickups where a separate toggle switch and two thumb controls go.
If I'm going to go Jazzmaster again, I want the full two-circuit pickup system and not single circuit. For that, I need a body with both the upper and lower bout routs and there's no way around that. Finding one of those for a low price however... yeah, I haven't found one yet.
Oh, and there's another problem. A lot of sellers who have Jazzmaster bodies don't have the posts drilled for the bridge either nor have the screw holes drilled for the vibrato system at the rear.
"You're asking a lot...", you may say. No, I'm not. You can find Strat bodies all day long with all the holes predrilled, even for the pick guard. If I want a vintage-style Strat body with the 6 screw holes predrilled for the bridge, two predrilled holes for the tremolo claw in the back, thru-body hole predrilled for the ground wire and pick guard holes predrilled, yep, no problem. I could buy one of those right now. If you're in Strat/Tele town, you're all set. If you're in Jazz/Jag town, no you're not.
The search continues (or maybe not?)
I'd like to put together my own guitar using a neck that has the measurements I prefer, so right now I'm still on the hunt for all the right parts at the right price.
HOWEVER... if it ends up being that all the pieces put together blows over a grand in cost, then it's actually cheaper to buy a new Squier or Fender. It might be a Squier J Mascis Jazzmaster. Yes, an artist model. That's a darned good guitar. I don't like the Adjust-O-Matic bridge, but that can easily be swapped out.
Unless a miracle happens, I'll keep playing the Strats I have for the rest of '23 and then make my choice for what to get next in '24.
Playing electric guitars unplugged is necessary
You can tell a lot about an electric guitar by not plugging it in.
While true the whole point of an electric guitar is to have its sound amplified, it's actually a very good idea to play these things unplugged first for two main reasons:
1. It's much easier to hear weird sounds (if any).
2. It's much easier to know if the guitar feels right or not.
"Weird sounds" defined
Buzzing, rattling, creaking, squeaking, unintended ringing and so on. Anything non-musical, as in non-musical noises.
A few examples:
If you bend a string and hear a creaking noise, that's not good. You'd most likely never hear that when plugged in, but it really sticks out when unplugged.
If you play a hard chord, stop it with your picking hand and hear ringing, where's that coming from? Is that string ring after the nut in the headstock area? Under the pick guard (if the guitar has one)? Behind the bridge if there is string travel there? If the guitar makes noises like this, you'll hear them when playing unplugged.
The electric sound works against you when testing for feel
I've said this before and will say it again - what makes or breaks a guitar is the neck, and that has everything to do with your fret hand and not your ears. If you have an amplified sound blaring out while testing out a guitar, that's a distraction. You should play unplugged first, and if you don't hear weird noises and the feel agrees with you, then plug in afterward.
Some guitars I tried out recently
I have a video of me playing 100% unplugged. The guitars seen in the video are the following:
- Squier Sonic Telecaster (new)
- Squier Affinity Telecaster (new)
- Squier Paranormal Super-Sonic (new)
- Squier Sonic Stratocaster HT (new)
- Squier Affinity Telecaster (used)
- Squier Affinity Stratocaster (used)
Because some guys are interested in this info, the guitar with the best vibration and projection was the Sonic Strat HT. For some reason, that guitar really rings out in the right ways. And it's fortunately dirt cheap.