What is the most durable guitar pick plastic?
The answer is a plastic that sounds like the name of a final boss in a video game.
What I'm going to do here is give you the #2 and #1 most durable plastics. Plastic #2 is affordable and may be available at your local guitar store right now. Plastic #1 is ridiculously expensive, but arguably worth it.
If the Fender 351 (celluloid) or nylon picks just aren't doing the job for you, the next step up to that is delrin; the most commonly known delrin pick is the Dunlop Tortex...
...but let's say that even a delrin pick just doesn't cut it. What's next?
The next step up from that is a pick made from ultem, which is the #2 most durable plastic where guitar picks are concerned. The two that are widely available are the Clayton Ultem and Dunlop Ultex.
I do not know if the ultem used in the Clayton or Dunlop is ultem 1000 or ultem 2300, but either is certainly stronger than delrin.
I also don't know if the Dunlop Ultex is specifically ultem or some special plastic blend that is mostly ultem. Regardless of that, the Ultex is still a seriously tough pick.
Now let's say ultem isn't good enough either. What's next? What's best-of-the-best?
Torlon. Specifically, Torlon 4203. That's the #1.
I only know of one guy in Switzerland who makes these things. Each pick is hand crafted, and the purchase of just one will set you back almost three figures. I'm not endorsed by this guy; it's just a fact that he builds arguably the world's most durable guitar pick in existence.
Ultimately, it's all about how much you want to spend
I recently bought a 6-pack of Dunlop Ultex Sharp picks, and the total price paid worked out to be about a dollar per pick. This is more than double the price of Dunlop Tortex which is about 45 cents per pick when you buy a 12-pack.
The Torlon pick is literally 10,000% more expensive. That's not a typo. But again, it is handmade, made from a plastic better than ultem and is insanely tough.
Think of it this way: What you're paying for with the Torlon pick isn't for a fancy look (even though it does look great). You're buying something made from super-ultra-mega industrial strength thermoplastic.
You definitely do get what you pay for with the Torlon pick, no question about it.
There are many versions of the Torlon pick (brushed, high gloss, extreme high gloss, etc.), and all are 8mm thick by design.
I bought the "cheap '69" Squier Affinity Stratocaster
It took me 46 days to get this thing. Is this the "modern dream JV?" It might be.
I ordered this on 11 February 2022 and did not get it until 46 days later on 29 March 2022. It's the longest I've ever had to wait for a preordered guitar. And yes, that's a bit ridiculous for a sub-$300 Squier.
The most collectible Squier Stratocaster of all time is the JV series from the '80s. As far as "dream guitars" from Squier are concerned, that's as good as it gets...
...but it's not a guitar I actually want. What I've been chasing after for years is what the new Stratocaster Affinity model has. Olympic White body, big headstock with proper STRATOCASTER "swoop" font in a 1969 Fender Stratocaster style, and slotted tuner posts. In addition to that, the Affinity has a neck with good chunk to it, a single string tree and tone control wired to the bridge pickup.
The new Affinity is the one Squier finally got right. Right look, right weight (it's light), right electronics, right hardware.
This is not my first venture into getting a big-headstock Squier Strat. In 2012, I had a Vintage Modified Squier Strat. Had to go back because of bridge issues (I discovered a screw mounted improperly by the factory). In 2013, [zmzont link="squier standard stratocaster"]I briefly had a Squier Standard Stratocaster[/zmzont]. In 2015, [zmzont link="squier vintage modified 70s stratocaster"]I briefly had a Squier '70s Stratocaster[/zmzont]. Both guitars were returned. The Standard's neck didn't feel right, and the '70s model, while better, still didn't cut the mustard. All these guitars had the wrong STRATOCASTER font on the headstock, and that bothered me.
Then there is the new Affinity. This one is, again, the one Squier got right.
Love the look, but have no desire for the genuine article
By genuine, I mean actual vintage Fender.
I was born in the '70s, and all Fender Stratocasters of that era had big headstocks on them. But the one that stuck out to me the most was the late '60s and early '70s models in Olympic White that faded to yellow. However, I've no desire to actually own one.
On the actual '69 Fender Stratocaster and '70s era Strats, none of them had 5-way switches until 1977, many were boat-anchor heavy, none had a reverse wound middle pickup (for noise canceling on switch positions 2 and 4), and Fender was using very skinny fret wire in that era. Also, Strat bodies of the '70s were less contoured compared to decades before and after that to reduce production cost. To put that in basic terms, the bodies feel a little more plank-like.
All this being said, yes I very much appreciate the modern body, modern hardware and modern electronics of the Squier. I don't have to mod the guitar at all to make it do what I want since everything is already built-in.
Best big-headstock Strat from Squier ever?
I think it is, but some many prefer the Squier Classic Vibe '70s Stratocaster just because it's "more '70s" than the Affinity is (especially considering a natural finish option is available, which is a staple '70s look).
However, I didn't want a '70s. I wanted something as close to a '69 as possible, and the Affinity fits that look better, for cheaper.
I'm glad I got mine.
Older Garmin models worth getting (updated 2022 edition)
Back in 2018 I wrote about the Garmin models worth getting. Things have changed a bit, I've acquired some more Garmin GPSes since then, and these are the good ones worth getting in 2022.
These will be listed from newest to oldest.
Current (as of March 2022)
This is the very last made-for-car matte screen Garmin GPS that is being sold new. I use this regularly and yes, it's a decent unit.
You should get this book specifically written for the 52 if you intend on using one regularly so you can maximize battery life, understand how to rest the GPS signal if needed, learn your way around the unit quickly, and so on.
Out of production (but easily acquired and can be updated)
These are listed from newest to oldest.
- Garmin DriveSmart 65 - 6.95-inch, glossy screen.
- Garmin DriveSmart 61 - 6.95-inch, glossy screen.
- Garmin DriveSmart 51 - 5.0-inch, glossy screen. Like the 61 but in a 5-inch version.
- Garmin DriveSmart 50 - 5.0-inch, glossy screen. Not much difference between this one and the 51.
- Garmin nuvi 2539, 2559, 2589, 2599, 2639, 2659, 2689, 2699 - Glossy screen. Models starting with 25 are 5.0-inch, models starting with 26 are 6.0-inch. Fantastic model overall, very legible, big fonts, good processing speed.
- Garmin nuvi 57LM/LMT, 58LM/LMT, 67LM/LMT, 68LM/LMT - Matte screen. Like the 25* and 26* but in matte version. Models starting with 5 are 5.0-inch, models starting with 6 are 6.0-inch. Three versions of each exist. The one you want must end with LM (LifeTime Maps) or LMT (LifeTime Maps & Traffic). For example, if you see a "Garmin nuvi 57", no. But if you see "Garmin nuvi 57LM" or "Garmin nuvi 57LMT", yes. There are only minor differences between 55/56/57/58 and 65/66/67/68. All you have to decide is whether you want 5-inch or 6-inch.
- Garmin nuvi 2457LMT, 2497LMT, 2557LMT, 2597LMT - Matte screen. Models starting with 24 are 4.3-inch, models starting with 25 are 5-inch. The 24 is good if you barely have any room in your car and need a smaller model. The 25 is the same as the 24 in a 5-inch. Very good units overall.
7-inch models
Not many to choose from here when it comes to older stuff.
From newest to oldest:
- Garmin DriveSmart 70 - glossy screen, 7.0-inch
- Garmin nuvi 2789 - glossy scren, 7.0-inch
- Garmin nuvi 2757 - matte screen, 7.0-inch
- Garmin nuvi 2797 - matte screen, 7.0-inch
You may want to consider the Garmin DriveSmart 65 or Garmin DriveSmart 61 instead. Both are technically not 7-inch, but just barely. A regular 7-inch has a 7" diagonal screen measurement, and the 61/65 have a 6.95" diagonal. Barely a difference. For all intents and purposes, both are 7" models.
Rich's picks
For a 4.3", the nuvi 2497LMT is the best of the lot.
For a 5.0", Drive 52 and nuvi 2589.
For a 6.0", nuvi 2659, nuvi 2689, nuvi 2699.
For a 6.95"/7.0", DriveSmart 65, DriveSmart 2789.
Casio MTP-1370D, the poor man's Rolex Day-Date
It's not a Rolex, but you can definitely afford it.
The Casio MTP-1370D a technically a discontinued model, but there are still some out there new, so if you want one of these, get it now before they disappear.
What makes this Casio a poor man's Rolex Day-Date? The day display, as in the cutout at the top of the dial displaying the entire word for the day of the week where you see MONDAY instead of MON, TUESDAY instead of TUE, and so on.
The Casio 1370 does not copy the Day-Date look exactly (the Day-Date has the date at the 3 o'clock position with a cyclops magnifier), but the eye is immediately drawn to that top day cutout that the Rolex Day-Date has.
Usually, there are either Roman numerals or diamonds for hour markers on the Day-Date, but there are some models that are all sticks with smooth bezel, just like the 1370 has.
The 1370 is one of the few "long day" watches out there
There really aren't that many long day watches. A few are the Hamilton Jazzmaster Day Date, Tissot Couturier and Bulova 96C125. But all of those are far more expensive than the Casio.
I got this watch because the size is right for my 6.7" (17cm) wrist and I just really like the look of the 1370. There's something about that long day display that has elegance to it.
Official Casio measurements state the watch is 45mm lug-to-lug, 39.8mm diameter and 8.8mm thick - however - that diameter measurement is with crown. Actual diameter measurement is about 38mm.
The only thing bad about this watch is the date display at 6 o'clock. Very small. Single digit days can be read okay, but some may have to squint to read the 2-digit days...
...but who cares? The 1370 has a Rolex Day-Date look for the lowest possible price with Casio quartz reliability, whisper quiet ticking and the seconds hand hits the marks properly.
I'm happy I got mine.
What is a buffer guitar pedal?
You have either never heard of this, or know what it is but don't know what it's actually used for.
What a buffer pedal does is fix a very common problem that happens when you run multiple pedal effects. This problem I speak of is frequency loss and/or loss of signal strength.
This loss happens not only from multiple pedals but also from use of long guitar cables. When the cable is longer, the signal has to travel further, and signal strength weakens as a result before getting to the amp.
A buffer pedal mainly concentrates on preserving the higher frequencies.
How do you know if you actually need a buffer pedal or not?
You have to perform a test in two parts.
The first part is playing your guitar regularly through all your pedals in the off state (meaning plugged in but effect not applied) using your existing guitar cable that you have. Strum some chords. Don't solo. Just strum and listen for a few minutes.
The second part is plugging your guitar direct-to-amp using a short guitar cable (10 feet is fine). Do the same test. Strum and listen.
If your guitar sounds more clear and bright when plugged in direct-to-amp using a 10ft cable compared to the sound when playing through your pedal effects rig, then you need a buffer pedal.
To put it another way: Does your guitar sound like you just installed new strings with the direct-to-amp test using the 10ft cable? And does it sound "muddy" when you play through your pedal effects rig with all pedals in the off state? If the answer is yes, what you're actually hearing with the direct-to-amp sound are the higher frequencies and proper signal strength that is being lost when running through your pedal effects rig. This is indicative that yes, you need a buffer pedal.
Let your ears decide if you can actually hear a difference with plugged-in-to-pedal-effects vs. straight-to-amp. If there's "mud" when running through your effects, you will hear that difference.
Does a buffer pedal change your sound?
No. The whole point of the buffer pedal is to preserve (or said another way "undo") the tone-wrecking that happens from some pedals and/or long cables. You get your higher frequencies back and proper signal strength.
Where does a buffer pedal go in a chain of pedal effects?
Short answer: Front of the chain (as in the first pedal). Most of the time, this is where it goes.
Long answer 1: After fuzz and not before.
Fuzz effects don't "agree" all that well with buffer pedals, so if using fuzz, put the buffer after that effect and not before it.
Long answer 2: Wherever the signal gets wrecked and needs "rejuvenation". This takes a bit more explanation.
Sometimes it's the case where just one pedal effect in your rig is the culprit for wrecking your sound. It's probably a real-deal vintage pedal effect of the low impedance type. If you notice every other pedal you have in the chain is OK except just one that just drains the life out of your signal, you put a buffer pedal after it so the signal frequency and strength can be brought back up to normal before moving on to the next part of the effects chain.
And if it happens to be that your "tone wrecker" pedal (as in the one you identify as either cutting out high frequencies and/or weakening signal even when its off) is at the end of the chain, then you put the buffer pedal at the end.
There is no hard fast rule that says you must put a buffer pedal in any one specific position in the chain. But when in doubt, try it at the front first (unless using a fuzz effect).
Should you "sandwich" your pedal board with two buffers?
Sandwiching a pedal board means to put one buffer at the beginning of your effects chain, and a second at the end.
Given how cheap buffer pedals are, yes, this is an OK thing to do.
Many buffer pedals are small enough to where you can easily mount two of them of the no-control variety (meaning no control knobs) under your pedal board.
Sandwiching a pedal board with a buffer at the front and the end is definitely the easiest type of buffer installation. Get two buffers, install, done.
The only time this doesn't work is, again, if a fuzz effect is in use.
A buffer pedal is not a booster pedal (even though several have a "boost" control on them)
The boost you see on a buffer pedal is "clean boost only" for a better sound in the overall mix, or at least that's what it's supposed to be. Or to term it more accurately, "clean gain only".
A traditional booster pedal on the other hand drives the signal, as in not-clean gain.
Other things you can try before running out and getting a buffer pedal
If you have the problem where your high frequencies get cut off and/or the signal strength is weak, there are a few other things you can try first before getting a buffer pedal.
- Switch guitar cable. Is your guitar cable old? Try replacing that first.
- Are you using short cables for the pedals in your chain? If you're not, you should, because any unnecessary cable length between pedals is doing nothing but weakening your signal.
- Do you have "dirty power"? An improper power draw can make pedals (and sometimes amps) act all sorts of weird. You may want to try a power conditioner.
Remember: A buffer pedal is not some whiz-bang exciting thing
It has been said by many, very accurately, that a buffer pedal is one of the most boring guitar pedals to ever exist. Why? Its sole purpose is just to fix signal problems and nothing more.
Yes, a buffer pedal is boring, but for those that run many pedals and/or use long guitar cables, it's a necessary evil to get the higher frequencies back and keep the signal strength proper.