The 1,000 year disc, M-DISC
This disc will supposedly last 1,000 years.
For a long time I've been saying that optical media is awful. This one isn't.
Years ago before anybody was even thinking of archiving anything, I was backing things up. Emails, photos, videos, account info and such. The current way I do it is with 7-Zip archives supplemented by PAR recovery files just in case the archive gets corrupted. The reason I do this is because I've lost data before, and it hurts every time it happens, because I've lost stuff that I'll never get back. And once you lose data enough times, you learn to back up routinely, which I do.
M-DISC a.k.a. Millennial Disc is optical media that can basically withstand any punishment you can throw at it. Heat, moisture, dirt, whatever. This is the disc that will outlive anybody.
I only see one problem with this disc. It has nothing to do with the media itself but rather concerning this simple question: Will there be any hardware that can play an M-DISC in 100 years, never mind 1,000?
Before answering that question, the 50-year question has already been answered with a yes. There is 50-year-old data that has been recovered from the technology of the time back in the late 1960s and early 1970s. And for slightly younger data, there have been tech hobbyists who have recovered data from 40-year-old media.
Tech hobbyists are a crazy bunch, because as of recent (as in the last 5 years or so) there have been more than a few who have recreated ancient antiquated hardware interfaces from scratch using 3-D printers just to get at that old data.
And that brings me to the hardware question. Yeah, you can get 1,000-year discs, but will there will be any new optical players at all even just 10 years from now? That's an unknown.
Sure, there will be giant piles of used optical players that can play the discs, but new ones? I doubt it.
Then again, given the fact insane tech hobbyists (repeat: hobbyists) have been able to save data over 40 years old, somebody will be able to read M-DISCs made today in another 40 years.
Verbatim is confident enough in the M-DISC they make that they offer a 10-year limited warranty on it even though the disc will survive far beyond that. When you see the price of these things, you'll get sticker shock for sure, but there is arguably nothing available that's tougher that will last longer than M-DISC.
The watch you buy when your smartwatch breaks
Anybody who wears a smartwatch eventually ends up wearing something like this instead.
On more than one occasion, I've seen people talking about watches like the Casio W218 where something is said along the lines of, "Yeah, well, I have a smartwatch and bought one of these cheap Casios as a backup. I liked it so much that I now wear it all the time."
I think what actually happened is a little different.
When somebody buys a smartwatch, they quickly grow to like having something on the wrist that tells the time and date at a glance. Very useful.
The decision is made at that point to buy a plain digital watch as a backup timepiece. It needs to be something square or rectangle because that's what the smartwatch shape is. They find the Casio W218. It's reasonably sized, lightweight, fits the wrist great and does the job just fine.
After that, the discovery is made that the smartwatch was never needed in the first place. What was needed was just a timepiece, and for anything else that requires mobile computing power, that's what the phone is for. This is when decision is made to just wear the Casio all the time.
Get a Casio wet and it will still work. It doesn't need charging and has a battery that lasts 5 to 7 years. Ding it up, scratch it up, whatever, it can handle it.
A plain digital Casio watch is just better at handling life, and that's why people buy these things.
This is the cheapest way to get guitar picks
I did the math, and now you'll know how cheap you can go.
For example, 300 assorted picks sells for under 15 bucks at the time of this writing.
The math says that 300 picks (with free shipping) at $14.95 means each pick is just under 5 cents per pick.
Is that the absolute cheapest? No, but darned close. It is possible to bulk order picks from China that go as low as 4 cents per pick (and you have to buy at least 600 to get a price that low), and that is the absolute rock bottom price. I could not find anything lower than that.
Who needs 300 picks?
Music teachers do. If teaching a class of students to play guitar, having many picks is necessary because kids lose them all the time.
If you want picks just for yourself, you obviously don't need 300 of them...
...but you may like the idea of a pick punch kit. A kit like that allows you to create your own custom picks. You can even buy the celluloid strips too to make things even easier.
I might get a pick punch for myself at some point. What was holding me back was that the celluloid material wasn't generally available, but now it is, so I might pick one up.
This is the Squier I'd buy had I not just bought one
It's taken a long time for Squier to get the big headstock correct on a Stratocaster, but they finally did.
Take the newly released Squier Affinity Stratocaster.
This guitar has pretty much always had the big headstock on it, but the reason I've never bought one is because the logo treatment was terrible. That's finally been fixed.
With the newer Classic Vibe, the smaller traditional headstock logo treatment is spot-on correct. And now Affinity joins the fray with a proper logo for the big headstock.
Do headstock fonts truly matter?
Absolutely.
For a lot of players, the way the headstock looks can mean the decision between buying the guitar or not.
The redesign of the Squier logo with the Q being different, along with that oh-so desirable italicized STRATOCASTER makes the Affinity Strat look so much better.
It does make sense that the bigger headstock is purposely put on a lower priced model, since it's well known that the smaller headstock has always been the better seller where Stratocaster guitars are concerned.
The last time Squier did this was with a Vintage Modified series Stratocaster. I've owned two of them. The STRATOCASTER font on the headstock however was wrong. While that wasn't the reason I parted with the guitars, I do admit that it did bother me.
However, the refreshed Affinity gets it right. The headstock shape and logos are finally correct. Good showing on Squier for the new Affinity model.
Plywood might be one of the best electric guitar tonewoods
For some people, anyway.
After buying my second 1989 Squier II Stratocaster, I was pleased to notice that it, just like my original, resonates like a beast. This is something a lot of Stratocaster players chase after.
Why does acoustic resonance matter at all with a solid-body electric guitar?
For me, it's for two reasons. The feeling of it and the acoustic sound.
Some players (and I am definitely one of them) like to feel body vibration while the guitar is being played. Feeling the vibration is a "second confirmation" the note or chord actually happened.
Hearing the note acoustically being played is a "third confirmation" the note or chord actually happened. This is only heard when playing indoors at home at a lower volume, but still nice to have.
When you hear the note or chord electrically, acoustically and feel it physically all at once, that's a desirable thing to many guitar players.
Why does plywood resonate so well in a solid-body guitar application?
I've been racking my brain trying to figure this out, and this is what I've come up with.
The first thing to know is that not all plywoods are not the same. Plywood is generally inexpensive, but there is also marine grade which is far more expensive because there are no voids between the plys.
The '89 Squier II Stratocaster is absolutely not made of marine grade plywood. It's the cheap stuff for sure, but not the cheap-as-dirt OSB particle board (that means oriented strand board).
If you search online for those who actually made guitars with plywood bodies, it's mostly guys who took the absolute cheapest OSB particle board they could find and make a guitar out of it.
The plywood used in my '89 Squier Strat is a grade above that. Certainly not premium grade, but not total bargain bin stuff either.
My best guess is that it's probably the same plywood type used in mid-grade speaker enclosures. I believe that is the secret sauce, so to speak. That's what makes it resonate so well.
Does this mean you should start building plywood body guitars?
No. Or to be more specific, not unless you're chasing after a very specific result.
It is easy to find a pre-made guitar body in a traditional tonewood like mahogany, alder, ash and so on. Heck, you can get mahogany guitar bodies easily on Amazon right now.
As crazy as this sounds, it would take more money and time to construct a plywood body. The plywood itself is cheaper, but ready-made options for solid bodies aren't generally available, so you have to fabricate it yourself.
If you are actually willing to take the time, money and effort to fabricate a body from mid-grade plywood, go for it. It might be just the thing to get the wood resonance you've been looking for...
...if that's what you want. Generally speaking, only fans of Fender and Gibson like solid-body electric guitars with tons of body resonance to them. Other players, such as hard rock and metal soloists, don't want pronounced resonance because that can make a Floyd-Rose tremolo system feel weird for their style of playing.
Both my plywood solid-body Squiers are resonance monsters. I can't say the same for the 2021 Fender Player Stratocaster I just recently returned. That guitar had a "proper" alder body, but the acoustic resonance, while there, was minimal.
I'm not saying to go buy a vintage Squier. But I am saying that if you have the means to put guitars together yourself (especially if you have the tools and equipment,) consider plywood. But be sure to use a plywood that's at least semi-good.