How to score good guitar parts cheap
I've said before that buying any guitar "with upgrades" isn't necessarily the way to go. However, there is one instance where it is an advantage...
...and that's when buying a guitar for parts rather than for the guitar itself.
When I searched for a parts guitar before writing this, I found one selling for $279 with free shipping. Cheap. But this is what it has in it:
- Grover locking tuners
- DiMarzio Area T neck pickup
- DiMarzio Area T Hot bridge pickup
- Gotoh bridge with intonated brass saddles
- Bourns 500K potentiometers
- Oak Grigsby 3-way switch
- Switchcraft output jack
- Hard case
Now when you put all those parts and accessories together were you to buy them separate, the value of all that is...
Get ready for this...
...about $415.
That's just the parts and case if all bought new, without the guitar.
Yes, it's true that desoldering the pickups and deconstructing the guitar is necessary just to get all the parts out of it. But the point is that all that stuff is acquired for about $135 less than if bought new outright.
Why is the guitar selling low when the total value of the parts should make it higher?
Two reasons.
First, any guitar "upgraded" with parts that it didn't have when sold new means it's non-original. And non-original means devalued.
Second, the fact the parts are in use means every single thing in the guitar is technically used, even if it was installed yesterday. That's another devaluation.
Seeking out specific parts? You may get lucky with "upgraded" guitars
Try a search for "guitar with upgrades" and see what you find. You might be able to score some real good parts and/or accessories far cheaper than if you bought new.
What not to buy in bulk for guitar
Certain things are okay to buy in bulk for guitar while others aren't.
I've personally made the mistake before of overbuying certain things while I ultimately had to throw out what I bought, which meant wasted money.
Generally speaking, the question to ask yourself whenever buying anything in bulk for guitar is: Will this still be useful in 3 months? If the answer is no, don't buy it.
For example, buying picks in bulk is fine because they pretty much last forever. Buying 9-volt batteries in bulk (for pedal effects and such) is also fine because those have a shelf life that lasts for years.
This is the stuff to avoid buying in bulk:
Guitar strings
Even with all the corrosion-resistant technology out there, coated strings from Elixir and so on, buying strings in bulk is usually a bad idea.
Generally speaking, the maximum amount of sets you should buy for any one guitar is a three pack, and that's presuming you go through a set of strings per month.
Buying in bulk, such as D'Addario EXL110-10P (10 sets of strings) is only advisable if you own multiple guitars and plan on going through all 10 sets in less than 90 days. After 90 days, don't be surprised if you see rust on the plain (as in unwound) strings fresh out of the pack.
Potentiometers
It's very easy to buy these things in bulk because they're cheap. Heck, you can get 25 of these things for under 30 bucks.
Now I know some of you will read that and think, "Ooh! Nice! I'm buying a bunch!" Whoa there, Tex. You don't need 25 frickin' potentiometers. In fact, you don't even need 10. Do you run a guitar repair shop? Didn't think so. Only buy what you need.
Glue
If you work on guitars at all, you're going to be using glue at some point. You may see Starbond bulk glue sets and may want one.
For this one I'd say yes, buy a set - but only the set you need. From that link you'll see there's all sorts of different thicknesses, grades and colors to choose from.
It's too easy to just keeping buying set after set after set of this stuff. Before you know it, all of a sudden you realize you've spent over 200 bucks. On frickin' glue.
Study what kind of glue you need for your guitar repair work and get the right set the first time.
Casio B650WD review
This is the spiritual successor to the A158, and most likely the last of my F-91W type style Casio watch purchases.
Originally, there was the F-91W, released in 1991. After that came the A158 which uses the same module as the F-91W. After a few years the F105W and A168 are released with the better "ElectroLuminescent" night light (Casio's version of Indiglo.) Fast-forward several more years later and the F108 model is released, which is similar to the F-91W, but with modernized larger display, thicker digit segments and while having an LED night light is much better than the original.
Fast-forward again to 2017 and two new models appear. The W217H and very recently at the time I write this the B650WD.
The W217H and B650WD are the only models released that are what I consider to be true spiritual successors to the F-91W and A158. Both have identical functionality and similar styling that made the '90s originals so good to begin with.
Complaints
The metal bracelet on the B650WD is a hair-puller, and the light button is a bit stiff.
Those are the only two complaints I have. And I can eliminate one of those complaints just by getting a W217H model, should I choose to get one later.
Compliments
Face is very easy to read.
Night light is vastly superior to the F-91W/A158. While not EL, the amber light easily lights up the entire display for really easy night reading.
Full 20-second alarm is carried over from the original F-91W/A158. Most Casio digital timepieces only have a 10-second alarm.
Beep tone is about the same volume as the F-91W/A158. It can be heard without a problem.
Buttons are larger compared to the '90s originals and easier to press.
Case is slightly heavier but fits much better on the wrist. The larger design allows the watch to lay more flatly, which is a very welcome thing. The lugs are also angled downward which further helps the watch to have such a great fit.
Overall design is more clean. Compared to the A158, several printed words have been removed. "LITHIUM" is gone, "12-24H" is gone and "WR" is gone. Two printed words have been added, "ILLUMINATOR" and "5 BAR" at the bottom, but done so in a way that if I didn't tell you about them, you probably wouldn't even have noticed (that's a good thing.)
Has a battery life claimed to be 7 years.
Better than the original?
Technically, yes, the B650WD is better than the A158...
...but the A158 still has something the B650WD doesn't have, and that's nostalgia factor.
The F-91W and A158 have a design that's almost 27 years old. I'm happy Casio still makes these watches and honestly hope they never stop making them.
I'd say just own both since they're cheap enough.
Unintentional '80s nostalgia
An unintentional peculiarity about the B650WD and only that model is that it looks something straight out of the early '80s. More specifically, "what people thought was a futuristic look in the 1980s."
A futuristic '80s appearance is basically an industrial design that's square, silver and shiny. And that's exactly what the B650WD is.
When I catch a reflection of me wearing this watch in a mirror, I genuinely do get that future-'80s style vibe from it.
Is this good? Yes, absolutely. Most inexpensive (and even a few expensive) digital watches have terrible "gamer" styling while the B650WD is much more elegant in its look.
For a cheap digital, the B650WD model might arguably be the best looking you can get for the price. I'm happy to own mine.
How to use the DigiTech JamMan Solo XT looper pedal
Yes, I bought one of these. And it's complicated.
This is a (somewhat) quick overview on how to get up and running with the DigiTech JamMan Solo XT looper pedal. There will be more info on how it compares to the BOSS RC-3 Loop Station after it.
Memory card stuff
Capacity
The most memory capacity the pedal can support is 32GB, which for audio alone is a monster amount of space that can fit up to 32 hours of record time. The microSD card I recommend is a 32GB Class 10. It does not matter whether the card is UHS (ultra high speed) compliant or not, due to the fact this is just audio data. Remember that this pedal is not a digital camera, so it will take no advantage of UHS speeds. If you buy a card that is UHS compliant, the pedal will still be able to use it without a problem, but just know you won't see any access speed advantage between UHS and non-UHS.
Formatting the memory card
If the card already has a file system on it: With the pedal powered off, insert the card, then power on the pedal. After that, press and hold the STORE button for 6 seconds until the LED display reads For for "Format." Press STORE once and the display then reads F?, which is the equivalent of an "Are you sure?" Press and hold STORE for 2 seconds. Once the display reads buS (which means "busy"), let go of the STORE button. Once formatting is complete, the display will show the last memory number location you were on, indicating the card is ready to use.
If the card DOES NOT have a file system on it: With the pedal powered off, insert the card, then power on the pedal. If the display shows nF, that means the JamMan has detected there is no file system on the memory card and needs to create one. Press STORE and the display will show F?, then press and hold STORE again for 2 seconds. The display will show buS, format the card, and when finished the display will show the last used memory location number. At that point the card is ready to use.
If the card has audio data already on it but the JamMan won't read the card: The contacts on the card are probably slightly tarnished from oxidation and didn't make a good connection with the JamMan. Power off the pedal, pop out the card, pop it back in again, power on the pedal and that should take care of the problem.
Recording a basic loop
Press the SETUP button 8 times until the display reads Pdl for "Pedal." It will alternate back and forth between On or OFF. Use the down arrow button to switch to OFF, then press the pedal switch to exit. What this does is set the pedal to record when it detects audio instead of using the built-in metronome.
Turn the RHYTHM LEVEL knob all the way off.
Turn the LOOP LEVEL knob to 12 o'clock (half way.)
Press the pedal switch. The LED directly above the switch will start flashing red. This lets you know the pedal is armed and ready to record.
Play your guitar (or bass or whatever instrument you have plugged in to the pedal.) The LED will stop blinking, remain red and turn solid, indicating recording has started. When finished, press the pedal switch again to end the recording. If all went well, when you press the switch, the recording will start looping and you're finished.
I will be writing more on this later in a book
Yes, I do plan on writing a book on how to use this pedal because one definitely needs to be written. The manual provided with the pedal is adequate but could be improved upon, so I have one of those in the works. [Edit: Book now available!]
DigiTech JamMan Solo XT vs. BOSS RC-3 Loop Station
The RC-3 is the direct competition to the JamMan Solo XT.
These are the basics of what you need to know if trying to decide which to go with.
Are both pedals complicated?
Yes. Both are advanced looper pedals and they are complicated by nature. Tons of options exist in each. If you want a simple looper, then I strongly recommend skipping both pedals and instead getting a BOSS RC-1, which is a greatly simplified RC-3. If you want something even simpler than that, there's the TC Electronic Ditto. One knob, one switch. It doesn't get any simpler than that.
Advantages of the RC-3 over the JamMan
- Has slightly better drum machine
- Can operate by battery alone
- 3 hours internal memory record time
Advantages of the JamMan Solo XT over the RC-3
- Doesn't operate by battery, but does come included with power supply right out of the box
- Can be upgraded to 32 hours record time with addition of 32GB memory card
- Easier to back up. Just pop out the memory card, put into computer or tablet, copy files, done.
- Shows BPM (beats per minute). A major complaint about the RC-3 is that it does not display BPM. The JamMan Solo XT does, and yes you can set the BPM manually.
- Can fade in/out loops
- Has the ability to reverse audio... not that you would ever need to do that, but it's there
- Costs $50 less than the RC-3
In the end, the JamMan Solo XT is the better pedal. It can be upgraded for cheap, has more features, has rugged construction just like the RC-3 and you get more for the money.
Like the RC-3, the JamMan is also a major upgrade over any standard simple looper. You'll probably never use 100% of the features the pedal has, but that's fine, because better to have too many features than not enough.
The #1 complaint about the Solo XT?
This only matters to those who use loopers a lot.
The Solo XT does not have any way to separate the click track from the audio on a separate channel (and neither does the RC-3.) For that, the larger and more expensive JamMan Stereo is required.
When you look at the JamMan Stereo, there is an output jack on the back that says "RHYTHM OUT". If you want to separate your click track from recorded audio, that's what you use.
The vast majority of guitar players who use loopers don't need this feature. But in case you do, now you know what to use.
JamMan Solo XT is a complicated pedal, but it is the best for the money
There is no other looper I know of that packs as much as the Solo XT does into a standard size floor pedal. It is the most and best you can get for the price, so if you want the best bang for the buck looper, get yourself one.
And again, yes a book is in the works for this. I'll have one released soon. [Edit: Book is available now!]
2017 Collectible - Fender American Special Stratocaster Mystic Seafoam
This is one to get just for the color.
We've already seen a Mystic Seafoam Telecaster and a Mystic Seafoam Jazzmaster, but now Fender has released Mystic Seafoam Stratocaster. And it just so happens that it's the most affordable of the lot since it's an American Special model and not American Professional.
Is this particular Strat any different compared to other Fender American Special Strats? Not that I can tell. Same measurements, same electronics, same neck, same pickups.
The only thing that makes this one stick out is the color. At the time I write this, it's not even listed on Fender's web site as an option, but yes, it certainly does exist.
Out of the finish options for new American Fender guitars this year, Mystic Seafoam is the best of the bunch. Think of it as a Candy Apple Red in a teal-like color. It has about the same amount of metallic flake as CAR but with a blue/green hue to it.
The Special is a good guitar, so if you were thinking about getting one, go for the Mystic Seafoam. It is an easy collectible due to the fact it is the sole Strat model offered in that color, and also the only Special model offered in that color as well.