How to find a long lasting cheap electric guitar
You can play cheap guitars and have them last a long time - if you know what to look for.
Take the Fender Custom Shop Merle Haggard Telecaster; it is a ridiculously expensive guitar. However, this Telecaster is very non-standard and without question costs a lot to make. It is tone chambered. It does have a center maple block with alder wings. It even has set-neck construction. No bolt-on.
Something you'll notice on the headstock of that guitar is the "TUFF DOG TELE" decal. This guitar is more than just a pretty face. It's built to take a beating. An absolutely ridiculous amount of urethane is used on this guitar, particularly on the fretboard. On most Tuff Dog Teles out of FCS, you can physically see the urethane prominently on each fret edge on the board. While true this makes it a nightmare to refret, the advantage is that it's basically impossible for this guitar to develop fret raising or fret sprouting...
...which is something you can get on some really cheap guitars for next to nothing.
And that brings me to things to look for on cheap guitars that should make them last longer compared to others.
Thick urethane maple fretboard finishing
It is typical on cheap guitars with all-maple necks to be finished in a very thick coat of urethane pretty much everywhere. Like with the Tuff Dog Tele, this does make refretting a nightmare, but at the same time makes for a very long-lasting neck. This is why made-in-Korea Squier electric guitars built back in the '90s with 1-piece maple necks still work fine today. The electronics may be falling apart by this point (easily replaced for cheap), but that neck is still going strong.
New cheaper guitars with all-maple necks still have the same way-too-much urethane finishing to this day, such as the Squier Classic Vibe '50s Stratocaster. Yes, the neck is super-shiny all over, but that's just the way it is and will in fact stand the test of time.
Does this mean all-maple necks last longer than those with rosewood fingerboards?
On cheap guitars, if the neck has the thick urethane finishing, yes. Fret wear will still be the same, but because the all-maple neck has the thick sealant on both front and back, that also covers the fret edges and helps to prevent raising and sprouting.
In addition, the thick-sealed all-maple neck is the easiest thing to clean. No wood treatment on your part is necessary since the whole thing is sealed and no open grain is present. All that's required are periodic simple cleanings with warm water and paper towels. Doesn't get any easier than that. The only unfinished parts of the neck would typically be where the bolts go in at the heel, the inside of the tuner holes and nowhere else. And since those two parts of the neck are never exposed, there's no need to treat them.
Am I saying to throw out your rosewood-fretboard guitars and go all-maple?
Not at all. I'm just saying if you want a neck that stands the best chance of lasting the longest time (aside from regular fret wear) on a cheap guitar, the all-maple neck with thick urethane sealant is it.
Consider the all-maple neck to be extra "added insurance" to give a cheap guitar the best chance of lasting longer, so to speak.
Sealed tuners with adjustable tension screw and attached with one nut
My preferred tuner is the older slotted style, but I totally admit one of the easiest to deal with is the sealed type with an adjuster tension screw on top, and tightened to the headstock via one big nut.
The Squier Affinity Telecaster has these, as does my Squier Bullet Telecaster. They are, said very honestly, a joy to deal with compared to other tuner types. Easy to adjust and easy to remove from the headstock for cleaning. They also hold tune just fine and work without complaint.
Without question, the best part about these tuners is being able to remove them just by loosening one nut. No tiny screws to deal with. It's the easiest of the easy whenever you feel like cleaning the entire neck including the headstock area.
Are these the longest lasting tuners on cheap guitars? Typically, yes. They're sealed, and that prevents gunk from getting in the tuner gears. The only thing that can really make a sealed tuner fail is not using it for extended periods of time.
Covered pickups
Some cheap guitars like the Epiphone Les Paul Special II have "open coil" pickups. These are pickups that are uncovered on the sides where you can see the coils and the ribbon holding them in place.
Yes, it looks cool and I don't deny that. But it also makes it really easy for dirt and gunk to get in there over time.
Another cheaper guitar, the ESP LTD EC100AT, has covered pickups. This doesn't mean the guitar is any better or worse, sound-wise. But it does mean it's easier to clean and maintain since the covers prevent dirt, gunk or whatever from getting inside the pickups.
The best thing you can have to make cheap guitars work better?
DeoxIT D5 is a small miracle for guitar electronics; this is especially true for cheap guitars.
On cheap guitars, it's usually the electronics where you will find the most cost cutting. Tiny potentiometers, really thin wiring, cheap switchgear and so on.
A very light spray of DeoxIT D5 on all pots and solder points truly does help a cheap guitar last longer because it does what it says on the can. Dissolves corrosion and improves connections.
Better than WD-40? For guitar electronics, absolutely. WD-40 is a lubricant and doesn't exactly dry quickly. DeoxIT D5 on the other hand is specifically formulated for electronics, dries fast, truly does help to keep the gunk and corrosion away and is altogether better.
This is great stuff for fixing and outright preventing scratchy pots and pickup selector switches. And since it's plastic-safe, it doesn't damage pick guards or other plastic parts on the guitar.
Yes, you will spend more for DeoxIT D5. It's worth it. Better to spend the money on a can of this and using it rather than having to rewire/resolder/replace electronics in your guitar over and over again.
Gretsch Electromatic Double Jet Broadway Jade GSR Limited Edition
I thought I saw the coolest looking Double Jet before, but this one is even cooler.
The last time I talked about the Gretsch Electromatic Double Jet was when I saw a two-tone version that I thought was a seriously nice looking guitar.
But this Double Jet in Broadway Jade is even better.
There's no gold hardware on this one, but that's fine because the chrome works so well here.
The look of this one is like a classic Chevy Bel-Air from the 1950s. Gleaming finish, gleaming metal and just an awesome appearance all-around.
As far as the particulars of the guitar is concerned, this body is fortunately chambered basswood to keep it light in weight. Fingerboard radius is 12", frets are medium jumbo size and pickups are Filter'Tron.
The sound is something I best describe as "twangy humbucker". It has a bit of a semi-hollow body humbucker sound to it, meaning more treble and mid with less bass.
Killer guitar as far as I'm concerned, and what a look.
The curse of the small and flat wristed, and how to work with it for watch sizing
There are certain rules I follow to work with how my wrist is shaped these days.
I got into watches in 2011. Then a few years later, I lost a bunch of weight and kept it off. Something I didn't expect to happen was that my wrist shrunk in size.
Back when I was fat, I didn't take a wrist measurement, but after I slimmed down I did.
The way you're supposed to take a wrist measurement for watch sizing is with a tape measure. The thickest point of the wrist is measured slightly loose to accommodate for watch band movement.
My wrist when measured tight is 6.5 inches, but when measured properly for a watch is 6.75 inches. That's only slightly smaller than the average man's wrist size of 7 inches.
No problem, just wear the watch tighter, right? Wrong. I have one of those wrists that's flat on top. And unfortunately, this is the absolute worst wrist shape when trying to find a watch that fits correctly.
Guys with regular rounder wrists that measure 7 to 7.5 inches around can basically wear any watch they want. But if the wrist is under 7 inches in size and a flatter shape, to say it's a challenge finding a watch that fits correct is an understatement.
Things I do to get watches that actually fit my wrist correctly
"Down under" NATO strap method
Take the Infantry IN-019, a dirt cheap diver - although I wouldn't dare take it in the water. This watch has a 42mm case size and 50mm lug-to-lug measurement. It fits me, albeit just barely.
In the standard way a NATO strap is worn, the excess and loops are positioned above the head of the watch. The alternative is to place that stuff under the wrist. For the small-and-flat wristed, this makes the NATO strap look a whole lot better.
The down under way of wearing a NATO strap can and usually does make big watches wear a lot better on small-flat wrists.
No leather, no resin
Steel bracelets and fabric straps work great on small-flat wrists.
With leather it's totally hit-or-miss. Mostly miss. The softer more pliable leather is usually the best bet, but the tradeoff is that it wears out quickly. I simply avoid it.
Resin straps almost never fit my wrist correctly unless it's something very thin and bendy. For example, the strap on the Casio CA53 fits great, but the Casio AE1000 strap does not.
Fabric works great on small-flat wrists simply for the fact you get the proper bend right at the watch case where the strap starts. This is why I can wear the G-SHOCK DW9052V without a problem. But the resin strap version of the same watch? Can't wear it. Doesn't fit right.
I have had good luck with steel bracelets provided the lug-to-lug of the case is under 51mm in length.
Hip to be square
I do regularly wear square shaped digital Casio timepieces that have a steel bracelet on it. They fit great, and square cases sit better atop a flat wrist compared to round.
Round cases, at least on my wrist, seem to move around too much even if the size is correct. Square cases for the most part stay put.
"Stubby" lugs are the best kind
Short, stubby lugs result in a shorter lug-to-lug measurement, which is exactly what a guy needs to find if he has a small-flat wrist.
Generally speaking, the Seiko SKX series is the standard example of something a man with a small-flat wrist can wear without a problem. Whether it's the 007, 009 or whatever SKX it is, you will see those short stubby lugs and know you can wear it.
I will eventually be picking one of these up. It's a 42mm, but the stubby lugs totally makes it work.
And yes, the Infantry IN-019 I have is a similar shape and lug design to the Seiko SKX. But the Seiko is obviously vastly superior in basically every way.
"All dial" is bad
If you see a watch where the bezel is really thin, that's an "all dial" watch.
This Skagen watch for example is all dial.
It's a nice minimalist piece that has a nice elegance to it, and it has a 40mm case size with short stubby lugs. But the drawback is that thin bezel. This means when a small-flat wristed man wears this, it looks like he's wearing a dinner plate on the wrist. Not a good look.
Compare that to the Timex Weekender Chrono. True, the lugs aren't stubby, but the bezel is much thicker. This watch looks smaller than the Skagen, but it's not. It's the same 40mm case size. That's how much of a difference bezel thickness can make in appearance.
It's also a huge plus that straps can be changed out very easily on the Timex. Throw on a NATO, steel bracelet, whatever, it will basically take anything.
This is another one I will be picking up at some point.
Study, study, study
I do tons of research before buying any watch and scour the internet for texts, images and videos before making the decision to buy. And even after I buy, I make darned sure I can return it easily if I find it doesn't fit right.
Most of the timepieces I buy aren't available to try in stores, so I have to buy online. Because of past research, I've avoided buying mistakes. That alone makes it worth it to spend the time researching, because it's really crappy to buy a watch, have it arrive in the mail, get all excited and then immediately disappointed because the stupid thing doesn't fit the wrist.
Will the "headcap" Squier Classic Vibe Strats be future collectibles?
I was at Guitar Center the other day and noticed one of these deep-discounted all the way down to $299 - which strongly indicates we won't be seeing these models again any time soon, if ever.
The Squier Classic Vibe Series guitars have been around a while (since 2012 if I remember correctly). You can still get the ever popular CV Stratocaster and the CV Telecaster easily.
During this run of guitars there have been a few special editions, namely the ones with matching headcap color. The '50s CV Stratocaster with a color called Sherwood Green, and the '60s CV Stratocaster with a color called Burgundy Mist.
What's the difference between '50s and '60s CV Strats? The '50s has a 1-piece maple neck, pickups that have alnico 3 magnets and a 1-ply white pick guard. The '60s has a neck with rosewood fingerboard, pickups with alnico 5 magnets and a 3-ply white-black-white pick guard.
Yes, these guitars will easily be future collectibles
It will only take a few years before either of these two Strats ramp up in value. These guitars are a genuine example of "don't know what you got until it's gone".
Classic Vibe is the best series of electrics that Squier makes, so the build quality is there. These guitars aren't toys and are right up there with Mexico build Fenders (some say they're even better).
If you want one of these, grab one now before they're gone forever
There's the possibility that after 2017 and early 2018, these headcap-matched color guitars won't be returning. So at the time I write this in late December 2017, I'd say grab one right now if you like it.
Guitar Center has deep-discounted the guitar to $299. If you can't get one there, try these searches:
One of the ugliest Stratocasters ever made
Stratocasters look terrible in green, and that brings us to talking about a rather disgusting guitar.
Green, as I've mentioned before, is an awful color for an electric guitar. Very few electrics get green right. One of the very few greens that actually looks good is Gretsch Cadillac Green, which is quite the swanky look. But on the Stratocaster, green does not work. Never has and never will.
With that being said, the 1989 Fender Stratocaster Eric Clapton Artist Series guitar in a finish called 7UP Green exists. The color is basically Candy Apple Green.
I remember this guitar back in the day when it was new. Some guitars look bad in photos but great in person. But this guitar has the exact opposite effect. It looks worse in person.
"It doesn't look bad to me", you may say when you look at it. You would be wrong.
Now to be clear, this is not a Forest Green, nor a British Racing Green, nor is it one of the nicer darker metallic greens you see on some cars. Nope. This is a candy color. As in the type of paint used on cheap bicycles and carnival rides.
There are some Stratocaster lovers that question why Fender doesn't release this as a standard color. The answer to that is simple. It's ugly.
Also bear in mind that the vast majority of other guitar makers avoid green on solid-body electrics like the plague because they too know how ugly it is.
Did Clapton himself ever dare play this ugly Strat in public?
Unfortunately, yes he did for a very brief period of time. And when he did, he wore a purple suit to go with it during one of his performances. I am not kidding. He complemented his nasty looking guitar with a purple suit along with a green shirt! He must have raided The Joker's closet that day. I guess Clapton figured if he's going to play a butt-ugly guitar, he might as well dress in a butt-ugly suit to go with it.
As far as I can tell, it was only in 1989 that Clapton was actually seen playing a 7UP Green Strat. After that he was mainly seen playing Pewter or Black Strats instead (his signature guitar was and still is available in several colors and those were two also offered at the time).
Quick facts about this particular guitar
This is the era when upper-end Strats were outfitted with Lace Sensor pickups with active electronics (meaning the guitar needs a battery, which by the way is very annoying to get to and replace) and TBX tone control. As far as the rest of the guitar is concerned, it's basically 1950s specifications for neck (save for the fact it has 22 frets) and body.
Is 7UP Green the rarest of the 1988 and 1989 Clapton Strats? Yes, it is. It's been said that only 1 out of every 2,000 Clapton Strats made at this time came in this color...
...and I know why. Fender Custom Shop must have known right away how ugly this guitar was once they saw it completed.
Supposedly, Clapton wanted this color, so I can imagine how this was handled at FCS. "Sure, Eric, we'll make a guitar in this color for you." After that conversation with Eric, the shop manager says to the team, "Wow, this thing is ugly. Okay, we'll make it, but be sure to make it in the lowest production number possible because NOBODY is going to want this thing."
Worth owning?
Only if you have a very big attachment to sparkly green, because it's really not a good guitar.
This Strat doesn't serve the player well because it has one of the worst possible configurations. You've got '50s neck and body paired with late '80s tech, which means a buzzy neck with pickups that have way too much output mated to a noisy preamp and overblown treble with the TBX. Not a good combination.
When looking at it strictly as a collector's piece, this is a hard sell due to the fugly color. Yes, it's rare. But it is a "signature" model and not significant in the guitar world. A 7UP Green EC Strat is nowhere near as valuable as Eric's "Blackie" Strat and never will be.
Ugliest Fender guitar ever made?
Maybe not the ugliest Fender guitar, but definitely one of the ugliest Artist Series guitars. There have been some serious Artist guitar stinkers out of FCS over the years, and the EC Artist in 7UP Green would definitely be in the top 5 (maybe I should make a list?)