Casio Japan market A158 on the way
Some new songs are coming soon, but for now, a few words about a gold-tone Casio.
The Casio A158 has a gold tone face, sometimes known as a camel face. I already own an A158, but not in this colorway. I spent a few bucks more (literally, it was just around 4 bucks more) and ordered model A-158WEA-9JF.
Why did I do this? First, because the F-91W is great and the A158 is the F-91W in a steel version. Second, I didn't want an exact copy of my existing A158 since I already have one, so I figured I'd go for a gold tone. Third, I wanted a true JDM (Japanese Domestic Market) Casio. The one I have on the way is direct from Japan, hence the JF at the end of the model name.
Does this mean the watch is made in Japan? No. All A158 models are China-made as far as I know. But what I'm hoping is that I get the JDM-specific packaging which is distinctively different than North American packaging. If I don't, oh well, I lost 4 bucks. But I'm hoping I do get it.
Casio watches with North American packaging for lower tier models are nothing but decidedly cheap blue and white boring boxes.
Casio watches with Japanese packaging, while just as cheap, are made hangtag style.
It is interesting that the Japan packaging does have English on the right side, possibly because this is meant for both Japan and certain English-speaking markets.
We used to get watch product packaging like this in America, but haven't for years because this style of packaging is supposed to be displayed in the open. As anyone who lives in America knows, you can't leave stuff in the open in a store because it will get stolen quickly.
Will I actually wear my gold-tone A158 once I get it? Absolutely. To date, I've never seen anyone around here wear one. I have seen the all-gold A159 version being worn, but that's too much gold for my taste. I like the metal color bracelet with the gold face. It works nicely for a little digital timepiece and has the right balance of gold and metal color without looking too garish. Works for me.
more music coming soon
I'm writing this one not just as an announcement but also as a reminder to actually do it.
The last time I released a song was in June 2015, almost a full year ago. Yeah, it's been a while. Totally my fault...
...and I intend to rectify that fault by releasing out some new songs soon.
I find that sometimes it's necessary to put pressure on myself to get songs done, and posting this article is my way of doing that.
Setting deadlines
Setting deadlines is a thing I sometimes do, and it's something I recommend to any guitar player just looking to get songs done.
The process is this: Get the song written and recorded, no matter how bad it turns out, by X date. X is whatever date you set.
So anyway, yes, new songs are coming soon. Kind of a short announcement, but not much needs to be said. It just needs to get done and will be done.
Guitar of the week #59 - Fender FSR Jaguar HH
Note: This is an FSR (Fender Special Run) Fender guitar, meaning very limited quantity, meaning if you like it, get it now or you'll never see it again.
The Fender FSR Jaguar HH is a cool guitar. The finish is Sea Foam Pearl, and compared to the Blacktop Series guitars Fender released prior where the skirted knobs didn't work with the design at all, on this guitar they work perfectly since the original Jag had "witch hat" knobs on it. The only difference is that these are black to match the pick guard, and yes, it absolutely and totally works.
What is this guitar best characterized as? A rocker guitar. As in not a surf guitar. It's also a ridiculously easy-to-play guitar with its 24" short scale length.
Basically, what we've got here is an offset waist short scale hardtail axe with a pair of hot humbuckers in it. Stupidly easy to operate, stupidly easy to play and looks cool.
While I don't like the hardtail version of the Jazzmaster, this hardtail Jag hits all the right marks. Right color, right style, right design, right everything.
My only nitpick? I wish it used the traditional curvy "JAGUAR" logo on the headstock. Other than that, this one is a winner.
It's also a stupidly easy collectible for those of you out there that collect guitars.
Like I said above, if you like it, grab it now before it's gone.
What is the easiest Stratocaster to mod?
I've been talking a lot about my Squier Stratocaster that I sent to a luthier recently. But is a Squier Strat truly mod-friendly?
No.
More often than not, the following is always true:
- A Fender Strat body will always have a full profile while the Squier Strat body will have a slimmer profile, commonly known as a 7/8 body.
- Squier pegboard holes (where the tuners go) will be smaller, meaning they cannot fit Fender size tuners unless the holes are widened.
- Some Squier bridges have string saddles spaced closer together, meaning replacement pickups with traditional exposed pole pieces won't line up with the strings.
Ways to get around the issues mentioned above
- Don't install a high-mass tremolo block on a Squier. It won't fit, and will stick out of the back of the guitar body. No, you can't shave it down. Just don't do it. Keep the existing block.
- Tuner size depends on where the guitar was made and tuner type, and it can be annoying to figure out which tuners will fit, because most won't. The only advice I can give here is to measure the hole and try to match up a replacement set as best you can. It will not be easy.
- To avoid all pole spacing issues, only use pickups that have rails. Seymour Duncan makes a bunch of them, as do other pickup manufacturers.
If you don't want to deal with any of that crap...
You buy a made-in-Mexico Fender Standard Stratocaster. It has the full profile body, standard string spacing and standard tuner spacing that make putting replacement parts in the guitar a breeze.
The MIM Strat is the most mod-friendly Strat guitar that exists.
Here's a very quick upgrade list for a Mexico Strat:
Those two items right there make for a fairly significant upgrade. And yes, they will drop right in to a Mexico Strat.
"I don't have the money for a new Mexico Strat."
This is what I recommend if you don't have the money for a new MIM Strat:
Find the cheapest possible MIM Strat you can in a guitar store or on Craigslist near you. All that is required is that the guitar works. Find one you like, buy it and take it home.
Take off the neck and throw it out. It's probably true the previous owner messed it up somehow anyway, so it's not even worth saving.
Buy a brand new Fender Mexico Strat neck with maple or rosewood fingerboard, your choice.
Buy a new set of sealed tuners after that.
Install the tuners and attach the neck to the body. Perform some adjustments, add shim(s) if necessary.
That's it. Enjoy. If there are other mods to be made with the electronics, just do it later once you have the cash for the parts. No big deal.
I've said this before, but the most important thing on your Strat is the neck. That is the one thing that makes a guitar great or makes it totally suck.
You will be totally amazed how great that guitar feels with the new neck on it. Yes, it really does make that much of a difference.
Also remember that modding a Strat does not mean "mod it all at once." You can do it over time. Modding is supposed to be fun, so just do it at your own pace. No rushing is required.
If you've ever tried to mod a Squier Strat and continually ran into problems because things just didn't fit, you will genuinely appreciate the MIM body because pretty much everything fits on it. Yeah, you do have to spend a little to get a used MIM and a new neck for it, but if you want a Strat that's easy to mod, you really do want that MIM.
Red Squier is off to the luthier
My little guitar in Dakota Red is being reconditioned and modified.
There are 2 guitars that made me slightly e-famous on the internet. The 2010 Squier Bullet Strat in Arctic White (traded out a while ago), and the 1989 Squier Stratocaster II.
Why did I keep the '89? Because it's my first guitar. Can't trade out or sell that one. :)
My first guitar, after all these years, is finally in the shop getting some repair, restoration and modifications done to it.
I mentioned some of what was going to be done, but this is the full list:
Restorations
The top horn strap button hole is totally stripped; that's getting filled/re-drilled...
...and that is, in fact, the only restoration happening.
Repairs
Entire neck is being refretted with stainless steel fret wire.
Nut may be replaced. Luthier's discretion there where it needs to be or not.
5-way selector is being replaced. On all Samick-build Squier Strats of this era such as mine is, the blade selector was notorious for being stiff even as a brand new instrument. Yes, I'm saying it's always been super-stiff.
Tuners are being replaced, but I'm unsure whether I'll get back vintage slotted style or sealed. I had sets of both and sent both to the luthier. The slotted (which most would know as Kluson style or just vintage tuners) is new, never used and manufactured by Gotoh Japan. The sealed tuners are a real-deal vintage set from my 1993 Fender American Standard Stratocaster (I'll talk more about that guitar later). I'd prefer the slotted set installed, but of course, that set works "six on a plate" style, and at the moment it's unknown whether the spacing of the pegboard holes will allow it. If the spacing is good, the slotted set gets installed. If not, the Fender sealed tuners get installed.
Any bad wiring found under the pick guard is getting replaced.
Modifications
The rear-only (as in bridge) pickup will be getting a tone control wired in. Rear will be dedicated to Tone 2 and Mid + Front will share Tone 1. I could have had Rear + Mid share Tone 2, but doing it the way I am separates out the tone controls better.
Last but not least, I might be getting not one but two "no-load" tone controls installed. These are tone controls where 0 through 9 is regular tone control, then you hit a detent, and 10 is a position where the tone capacitor filtration is completely bypassed.
What am I not certain I'm getting these? Because of the slim profile of the Squier Strat body.
Take a Fender TBX Tone Control for example. That absolutely will not fit in a Squier slim profile Strat body. It's just not happening. Way too tall.
Fender part number 0990833000 on the other hand, which is the no-load tone kit, has a pot that is much shorter and might fit in a Squier slim body.
If the no-load pots fit under the guard, I get no-loads for both controls. If not, I have to stay with the smaller pots that fit the Squier slim Strat body.
The idea for putting in a pair of no-loads came after my concern from adding the load of a tone control to the rear pickup possibly changing the overall sound of it (something I don't want happening). The luthier said he had a few no-loads and could see if they fit. I'm hoping they do.
Tone wiring considerations aside, the big deal here are the frets, tuners and 5-way selector. Having these 3 things actually all work correct will make the guitar truly a joy to play, and make the guitar feel and play just as good as American Standard Strat if not better.