Squier Classic Vibe Starcaster vs. Affinity Starcaster
It's half the guitar but still a great deal on a semi-hollow body electric.
To begin, yes the Starcaster has made a return as a Squier.
There is the "full" Starcaster in Classic Vibe flavor, and the Affinity flavor.
The Classic Vibe is more expensive than the Affinity. CV has chrome cover pickups, body binding, pick guard, four controls instead of just two and vintage style slotted tuners instead of sealed.
There are two things the Affinity model of the Starcaster has over the Classic Vibe.
First is the headstock treatment. Some people really don't like the black stripe. The Affinity eliminates that stripe.
Second is the fact you get a semi-hollow with dual humbuckers for such a low price.
The Affinity Starcaster is a 2019 semi-hollow electric selling new at a 2010 price. That's actually quite impressive.
Whether you go Classic Vibe or Affinity, both of these are very decent semi-hollow electrics for what they sell for.
How to update ZOOM R8 firmware
I had someone message me about this recently so I decided to put an article together since the process may be unfamiliar to some.
Disclaimer
Follow these instructions to update your ZOOM R8 at your own risk. I won't be held responsible if you lose all your data.
Step 1. BACK UP YOUR MEMORY CARD FIRST
The R8 erases the memory card during the update, so you have to back it up first.
Take out the memory card from the R8.
Plug it in to a PC or laptop.
Copy all the contents of the card somewhere on your computer where you will remember it.
REPEAT: COPY ALL THE CONTENTS. AS IN THE WHOLE CARD. ALL OF IT. If you don't, YOU WILL LOSE ALL YOUR PROJECT FILES.
The card will contain a folder called ZOOM_R8, and within that 3 more folders LOOP, PROJECT and SYS. This is where all your stuff is.
Depending on how many projects you have on your memory card, it may take a long time to copy it all locally to a backup folder on your computer. This is normal.
When copying the card to a local backup location on your computer, DO NOT MULTITASK. Don't use your web browser. Don't run any other programs. Don't let your screen "sleep". Let the copy happen without any interruptions to make sure everything is copied over with no file corruption.
It is suggested, although not required, to make two copies of the memory card.
Step 2. Download the firmware update
Go to the ZOOM web site and download the latest firmware update for the R8 model. It will be a ZIP file.
Step 3. Open the ZIP and extract the firmware file
Windows natively supports ZIP files. Double-click the downloaded file ZIP to open it.
The first thing you will see in the ZIP is a folder. Double-click to enter it.
In this folder will be 3 files. The only one you want is R8SYS.BIN.
Copy R8SYS.BIN to a place where you will remember it.
Step 4. Put your R8's SD card in your computer and copy over the BIN file
When you insert the SD card to your computer, it will be automatically assigned a drive letter. Usually it will be E, but it may be something else like F or G, whatever drive letter is available first to Windows.
Copy R8SYS.BIN to the root of the SD card, which means "not in a folder". If for example the SD card is assigned to drive letter E, copy R8SYS.BIN directly to E.
Step 5. DID YOU BACK UP YOUR MEMORY CARD FIRST?
I hope you did, because in the next steps you're about to erase it.
Confused? Read step 1 again.
Step 6. Remove SD card from the computer and put it back into the R8
Self-explanatory.
Step 7. Connect USB power to the R8
Don't perform this update on battery power. Use USB. You can use a USB cable plugged directly to your computer if you don't have anything that plugs into the wall.
Step 8. While holding PLAY, power on the R8
Press the LEFT ARROW KEY on the R8 to highlight OK.
Press ENTER on the R8 to continue.
Wait. The upgrade process takes 1 to 2 minutes to complete.
Step 9. Power off the R8 when safe to do so, wait 10 seconds, power back on
You will see the splash screen with the updated firmware version momentarily, then the R8 will bring you to the main project screen.
...but as you will notice, all projects that were on the memory card are gone.
You did remember to back up your project files first like I told you, RIGHT?
If you didn't, this tutorial is over and it sucks to be you because you didn't follow directions!
If you did, good! Proceed to the next step.
Step 10. Prepare to copy back all your project files to your SD card
Take the SD card out of the R8 and put it into your computer.
Delete all files on the SD card. Yes, it's OK to do this. STOP. Read what I just said again. I said delete the files on the SD card. I did not say "delete your copied backup files". Don't be stupid by deleting the backup. You're just clearing the card to copy over your backup data.
Step 11. Copy back all your project files to the SD card
Copy the backup you made earlier to the SD card. It should be a folder called ZOOM_R8, with the three subfolders LOOP, PROJECT and SYS.
When copying your data, DO NOT MULTITASK. Don't use your web browser or anything else while the copy is taking place to ensure no files copy over incorrectly.
When the file copy is finished, proceed to the next step.
Step 12. Put the SD card back in the R8
Self-explanatory.
Step 13. Power on the R8
Your R8 should now be exactly the way that it was with all your project files ready-to-use.
"Is this process the same for replacing the SD memory card in my R8?"
Yes.
If the SD memory card in your R8 is over 3 years old or you just want to bump up to something with more memory capacity, this is how you go about it:
Get a new memory card. The R8 supports up to 32GB. Anything bigger than that won't work. You can use SD or a microSD within an SD adapter. You do not need "ultra high speed" or "extreme" cards because this is only audio and not video files. A 5-pack of 32GB cards will ensure that you don't have to buy more cards for a good long time.
Put a new card into the R8 and format it using the R8 directly.
After that, follow steps 1, 11 and 12. That's it. The only difference is that instead of copying your project files to your old card, copy them to the new one, put in the R8, boot, done.
Who can afford a $5,000 guitar?
The answer to this question is not what you think it is.
Where things go into "too expensive" for most guitar buyers is when the guitar is the price of a fairly decent 10-year-old used car. At the time I write this, that tipping point price is $5,000 USD. For that cost, you can get any number of cars or trucks with under 100,000 miles that will run for a few years, depending on what it is.
To be clear, five grand will buy you a whole car.
Even though this is true, guitars that sell for this kind of money such as the Gibson 125th Anniversary Hummingbird seen above do sell regularly.
But why?
Let's find out.
When America is not in a recession, people buy stuff
When the nation isn't in a recession, it's not necessarily true that people are making more money. But it is true that more people can afford finance payments.
As a general rule, guys who spend thousands of dollars on just one guitar rarely pay for it all at once. It will be financed. In fact, you will see on that link for that guitar that it can be financed for $230/month for 24 months.
When the American economy is doing well, guitars like the Hummingbird do get sold because buyers are confident enough they can either ride the 24 months out, or maybe ride 12 to 18 months and then pay the whole thing off early (which you can do).
Some guys will even buy the guitar just as a means to rebuild credit. When the economy is good but your credit is bad and you keep getting denied over and over again, chances are Guitar Center's finance program will approve you anyway.
When America is in a recession, priorities change
It's been over 10 years since America has been in a recession, and many economists say one will happen in mid or late 2020. Should you be worried about this? Not really, because economists often get things wrong. But they are correct the nation is overdue for a recession.
In times of recession, people come to the realization very quickly that absolutely nobody needs anything in a guitar store. What typically happens is that guitar stores go into panic mode and immediately make every attempt to dump the expensive inventory, even if it means selling guitars barely above cost. After that a shift happens where many stores will refuse stocking anything that sells for over $2K, and then the store just rides out the recession until things start getting better again.
What I'm seeing right now in the Guitar Center stores I've been to is many over-$2K choices. The economy is doing well, buyers are confident enough to finance $2K to $5K, so sure, GC will stock them since most will move.
But when the next recession hits, those same stores will flush out that expensive inventory quick.
When is the best time to buy that expensive guitar?
There are some who believe the best time to buy expensive guitars is when the economy is at its worst so you get the best deal.
I disagree with this.
In times of a better economy, there are few significant advantages.
For really expensive guitars, warranty service (should the guitar require any) takes 1 to 3 months to get back to you in a good economy, and 3 to 8 months when it's bad because of downsizing.
Inventory of more expensive guitars is more plentiful in a good economy, so if you get a dud, it can be replaced. In a bad economy, you could be stuck with the dud because replacement guitars might not even exist.
For expensive guitars with custom parts, the same applies. Good economy = replacement parts available. Bad economy = get on a waiting list with no guarantee you'll ever get the part.
Should you finance a guitar?
I've said before that financing a guitar is a really bad idea, however... if you actually need to purchase a "big" thing in an effort to rebuild credit and are confident enough you can swing a 2-year term, then yes, go for it.
For credit rebuilding purposes, yes it is easier to buy one moderately big thing instead of many little things. And by moderately big, $5K works for that purpose.
Would I personally go for the Hummingbird?
No, because I prefer electrics.
If I was intent on spending $5K, my choice would be guitar + combo amp, old-school style. Namely, a USA-made G&L Comanche and Fender Custom Deluxe '64 1x12 combo.
For those not familiar with the Comanche, it has "Z" coil pickups, sorta/kinda like a Precision Bass pickup where it has all the character of Strat single-coil with no hum. It's actually a really cool pickup design. And yes the guitar is available in a much less expensive Tribute import model. You don't need to blow over 2 grand to get one.
How to backup and restore Line 6 Spider V amp presets
This is easy once you know how it's done.
I received an email asking how to do this, and rather than put it all in a reply I decided to put together a quick article about it.
If you own a Line 6 Spider V guitar amplifier, be it a V 30, V 60, V 120, V 240 or V 240HC, the easiest way to back up all your custom presets is to use the Spider V Remote software.
The software is free, but unfortunately does not contain a help file telling you how to do anything. There is probably online documentation for this on the Line 6 web site, but I couldn't find it.
Once you see how this is done, you'll say to yourself, "Oh, okay that was actually pretty easy." Yes, it is once you're actually told what to do.
Why back up?
The main reason to back up your presets is for whenever you perform a Spider V system update. Periodically, Line 6 will release an amplifier software update that adds in new features and/or applies fixes. It is a smart idea to back up your presets before applying any updates so you don't lose anything.
Step 1. Get the drivers
(Important note: If you are prompted to create a Line 6 online account during any of this, do so.)
If you've never plugged in your Line 6 Spider V amp to your PC or laptop before, you'll probably need the drivers.
Go to the Line 6 web site software area.
Choose your amplifier from that page to get the drivers, and install them.
Step 2. Connect the Spider V amp to your PC with a USB cable
Check the back of your Spider V amp first to make sure USB is selected. You will see a small slider switch. One side will be marked iPhone/iPod, and the other MAC/PC ANDROID. You want the switch to have MAC/PC ANDROID selected, otherwise the USB connection won't work.
After you do that, connect the USB cable to the amp and then to your PC. Windows will detect it since you already have the drivers installed. It may take 1 to 2 minutes before the first detection is complete.
Once successfully detected, leave the amp on and connected via USB.
Step 3. Download and install the Line 6 Spider V Remote Software
Go to the Line 6 web site software area.
Choose your amplifier on that page, then your operating system.
On the next page, you'll be prompted to download the software and then install it to your PC. Do so.
Step 4. Launch the Spider V Remote software and back up your presets
When you launch the Spider V Remote software, it will first read all the presets and then bring you to the main screen.
After that happens, click Backup.
A small window will appear asking you what you want for the name of the backup file, and where you want to save it.
Name the file whatever you want, or just take the name the software gives you.
Save your backup file (it will be just one master file) in a place where you will remember it.
After saving your file, you're done and the backup is complete.
Step 5. Restoring a backup
Repeat the instructions in step 4 above, but instead of clicking Backup, click Restore.
You will be asked where your backup file is. Navigate to where the backup is located, and perform the Restore process.
Note: Restoring takes slightly longer than backing up; this is normal.
How do I perform a system software update?
Use the Line 6 Updater software. Go to the Line 6 web site software area like you did before, choose your amp, then Line 6 Updater and your operating system. You will be prompted to download the updater software.
After downloading, install the software.
Before launching the Updater, make sure your amp is turned on and plugged in via USB first.
Once you've connected your amp via USB, launcher the Updater and follow the instructions it gives you.
Remember: Back up your presets first before performing any updates.
Cheap guitar string 3-pack sets that are actually good
When you play guitar, you buy a lot of strings. There's no reason to spend any more than you have to.
In places like Guitar Center, guitar strings are usually sold as single packs and it's not often you find 3-pack sets. I don't know why this is but that's the way they sell strings.
More often than not, most guitar players prefer to buy string sets in packs of 3 simply because you can actually use them before they rust. Sure, you could get a 10-pack or even a 25-pack, but will you use all those strings before rust sets in? Nope. This is why you buy in sets of 3.
Quick list of generally available 3-pack sets:
- D'Addario EXL120 9-42 3-pack
- D'Addario EXL110 10-46 3-pack
- D'Addario EXL115 11-49 3-pack
- Ernie Ball Super Slinky 2223 9-42 3-pack
- Ernie Ball Super Slinky 2221 10-46 3-pack
- Ernie Ball Super Slinky 2220 11-48 3-pack
- Cleartone 10-46 3-pack (not exactly cheap but some players really like these)
- Fender 250 9-42 3-pack
- Fender 250 10-46 3-pack
...and for the acoustic players:
- D'Addario Phosphor Bronze 10-47 3-pack
- D'Addario Phosphor Bronze 12-53 3-pack
- D'Addario Phosphor Bronze 13-56 3-pack
- Ernie Ball Earthwood 12-54 3-pack
Is it worth it to buy coated strings?
Coated strings are only good for guitars you play infrequently.
You don't buy coated strings for longer string life, because with regular play they don't really last any longer than non-coated strings do.
You buy coated strings for guitars that spend most of the time in storage. The #1 reason to buy coated is for corrosion resistance.
For electrics, sure, you can get coated electric string 3-packs in 9-42 sets or 10-46 sets. You will pay more for those. But again, I'd only get those for guitars that aren't played often and stay in storage most of the time.
For acoustic strings, you could get coated strings but don't really need to. The D'Addario Phosphor Bronze is already corrosion resistant and cheap to buy, so just get a 3-pack of those.