Metal tone on stock pickups is easy
If metal is the kind of music you're playing, any modern guitar with stock pickups will work.
You can see a video of me playing the Ibanez GAX30 using what I call a rock sound but it's actually more of a metal tone. As usual, I am using my Line 6 Spider V 60 recorded direct over USB.
To be totally honest, getting a sound like this is fairly simple.
Getting an emulated sound like this means purposely using a virtual amp labeled as "British" and a virtual cabinet labeled as 4x12. Or said simpler, an emulated 100-watt Marshall half stack.
After that, the virtual effects to use to complete that '80s metal tone is a buzzy distortion like the BOSS DS-1 (I'm pretty sure every guitar modeling software and modeling amp ever made has this), and then a delay effect with around 500 to 600ms of spread between repeats.
The biggest thing to consider here is to purposely use an amp and effect combination that destroys the guitar's natural tone.
I know that sounds weird, so I'll explain it better.
Metal tone is not about hearing the natural tonal properties of the guitar and never has been. The goal is to get a processed sound where the distortion "flattens" the tone, while at the same time getting power chords and solo notes to ring out as long as possible.
This being true, stock pickups in any new solidbody guitar will work. I can do this on a single-coil Telecaster or on my Ibanez as seen above. However, I will admit most players would probably have an easier time using a guitar with humbuckers.
Do you need alnico magnet pickups? No. My Ibanez has stock ceramic magnet pickups and work just fine.
Do you need high-output pickups? No. As long as the pickup magnets aren't dead, you're fine. If they were dead, believe me, you would know it.
Do you need a special kind of guitar string? No. Just make sure what you have isn't old and worn out.
Do you need a special kind of guitar pick? Maybe. I use Fender California Clear medium picks, and they have a very pronounced strike that does help ring out the strings more. If you use a material with a softer strike like the Dunlop Tortex, try a Fender California Clear. It may or may not help with your sound. You won't know until you try one.
What you do need to do above all else is study whatever amp modeling you use now, get that 1980s British amp sound, throw a buzzy distortion in front of it and chase that with delay.
On a final note, yes the sound is a bit of a buzz box. That's normal. That was the metal sound in the '80s for the most part. Guitars sounded that way because it worked for cutting through a mix.
How to get great electric guitar clean tone the easy way
Getting great clean tone is easy with any electric guitar when you know the right stuff to use.
You can see a video of me playing my Ibanez GAX30, where the only things I did was a setup and a string change. It's 100% stock with all original hardware.
I'm mentioning this because it honestly doesn't matter what guitar you have. It could be an inexpensive GAX30 or a ridiculously expensive PRS McCarty 594. What does matter is how you approach clean tone.
Recording
I use a Line 6 Spider V 60 plugged direct into my computer. It's not required to have this amp to get good clean electric guitar sounds. But it is certainly much easier than placing a microphone to an amplifier speaker.
Recording direct, be it through a modeling amp like the Spider V 60, effects unit like the DigiTech RP360 or software, does allow for the most noise-free sound.
Effects
There are two required effects and one optional here.
Required: Compressor effect
All guitar modeling setups these days be it amp, multi-effect unit or software have several compressor effects available to you. One of them that's usually just right for recording is anything that emulates a BOSS CS-3 Compression Sustainer.
Could you use an actual BOSS CS-3 instead of emulated? Yes. If you have one, the CS-3 can be used direct and works well.
The level of compression to use depends on what pickups your guitar has. Typically, single-coil pickups require more compression because of lower overall output and humbucker pickups require less compression because of higher overall output.
Required: Delay effect
Like the compressor effect, all modeling amps, multi-effect units and software have several delay effects you can choose from. Like the CS-3, the best delay for recording is something that emulates a BOSS DD-7 Digital Delay.
The key thing to know here is to use digital delay and not analog. Where clean tone is concerned, analog delay can color the sound too much and not sound right.
The level of delay to use should be 40% or less. You do not want the delay "in your face", but rather as a nice compliment to the clean sound to fill the empty sonic space.
Optional: Chorus effect
Once again, the chorus effect is available in just about all modeling amps, multi-effect units and software.
As far as the best chorus to use, it's not one that would try to emulate any specific pedal effect but rather one that can be used with a slow rate.
Generally speaking, the way a chorus effect works is by rate adjusted from slow to fast, and density for how much of the effect is heard. For optimal clean sound, a slow rate with a mild density usually works best.
Using a scale of 1 to 10 for easier comprehension, rate would be 1 to 2, and density would be 3 to 5.
Order of effects
Compressor first, chorus (if used) second, delay last. For most people, this would be the best chain order to use to get the best sound.
How to get a nag-free Garmin GPS experience
How to get a nag-free Garmin GPS experience
This page is only for the nerdy GPS user. It's probably true hardly anyone will see this, but I'm putting it here anyway for the few of you out there that absolutely hate modern Garmin standalone GPSes and just want something 100% free of nanny nags.
Other than the very specific Garmin models I mention below, there is no modern Garmin GPS that is nag-free. All the nags are there on a system level and there is absolutely no way to get rid of them. You'll just have to get used to it with any new model available. That's just the way it is.
Take a Garmin nuvi 260W. You specifically have to seek one out with a serial number on a white sticker (as opposed to gray). That is a later revision which allows the 260 to be upgraded to have most features of the 2x5 models. It's also a model that can accept a memory card up to 32GB in size, whereas the older gray sticker serial models do not.
Of every single automotive model Garmin ever made, only the late generation 2x0 models are 100% nag-free that are actually usable.
"Usable" defined
Usable means the GPS acquires a signal quickly and accepts up to a 32GB memory card. While I would absolutely love to use the older StreetPilot 2720 model, that unit does not have any ability to upgrade its memory capacity at all, and takes a long time to acquire a signal.
The 2x0 series also can all accept direct GPS coordinate data, which is something none of the StreetPilot c3xx or c5xx models can do.
With the 2x0, you get everything you need and nothing you don't.
The one thing you'll miss but will have to get used to it
The 2x0 was made at a time before on-screen speed limits were introduced. HOWEVER, that is what makes the 2x0 series 100% nanny nag free.
What are nanny nags?
On-screen and/or audible alerts billed as "safety features" that do nothing but distract you while driving.
The first nanny nag was introduced with a firmware update affecting almost every model ending with a 5 back in August 2010. When you go over the speed limit while driving, the speed number turns red. Once there, it's impossible to shut it off whenever over the limit. You are not given a choice. That nanny nag is now there permanently. Every single time you go even 1 mile over the limit, the red number nag appears. Every model released since that time has that nanny nag built in.
At the time I write this, I'm using a DriveAssist 51 LMT-S model, and it is chock full of nags galore. In addition to the red over-limit speed indicator that never went away, now it has orange animated banners at the top of the screen for railroad tracks, curved road ahead, school zones and more. And it can't be turned off. Not possible. The best you can do is disable the tones, uncheck every alert possible, turn off Foursquare maps, turn off Parkopedia maps, and so on...
...but even with every single frickin' driver alert disabled, there are still alerts. They are always there.
Oh, but wait, it gets better. The voice now has "Real Directions", so instead of telling you "Turn right on Main Street", the unit now says "Turn right at the traffic light". Yes, Garmin actually went backwards with their directions. Instead of the voice giving you useful information telling you the street to turn to, now the voice gives you landmarks to look for periodically.
Sound good? It's not. Sometimes it will say to "turn right at the Shell" (gas station). Well, guess what, sometimes gas stations change company names and other times they just outright close. This invites incorrect directions galore over time.
Another nanny nag is Junction View. This has always been a bad idea because the entire map changes and distracts you while traveling highways and interstates. However, if you still want that, there's another option beside the 2x0 series. Keep reading.
Your 2x0 choices
You can use any 2x0 you want provided it has a white sticker serial number starting with 1G.
These are the models:
- 200
- 200W
- 250
- 250W
- 260
- 260W
- 270
If you want a QWERTY keyboard and a text-to-speech voice, get the 260W, that's a 4.3" model. If you're okay with an ABCDE keyboard, get the 260.
If you don't care about the TTS voice and want something more compact, get any of the above models not ending in W.
Updating maps
Use OSM.
If you absolutely have to have Junction View and a speed limit indicator...
...you'll have to deal with the speed limit nanny nag. There's no way around it. If you're okay with that, these are the best 3 models because they have the best screens:
- 1490 (5.0") or any variant like 1490T, 1490LM and so on.
- 40 (4.3") or any variant like 40LM
- 50 (5.0") or any variant like 50LM
My suggestion is to go with a 5.0" model unless space is a concern.
The map upgrading process is exactly the same as the 2x0, with the only difference being the map setting location, which is Settings > Map > Info.
Four more advantages of using a 2x0
No dopey menu animations
Nothing fades or slides into view when going from menu to menu. The interface is quick, simple and very efficient. This cannot be said for the 1490, 40 and 50 however as those have dopey sliding/fading menu crapola.
A 2D mode that actually works right
The 2D mode in the 1490/40/50 is worthless and has been that way ever since. What Garmin did is make the navigation map arrow very skinny for some ridiculous reason. The 2x0 on the other hand has a 2D map arrow that is thick and gets thicker on zoom when approaching a turn or destination. It works perfectly.
OFF means OFF
When you turn off a 2x0, it is truly off and not in "standby" mode sucking away battery life.
Genuinely good battery life
If the battery in your 2x0 is good or you replace it with a new one, the battery lasts up to 5 hours.
Remember that DriveAssist 51 I mentioned above? It doesn't last 30 minutes - and that's normal.
Tips on best use of a 2x0
Use Normal instead of Most for map detail
In my experience, using Most will clutter up the map rather than aid in direction. Normal has less clutter and also gives the 2x0 a slight performance advantage because it has less to draw on screen.
Remember that the vehicle icon can be pressed to quick-save a waypoint
Most people forget this part, but you can tap the vehicle icon at any time to quick-save a Favorite.
Learn how to use GPS coordinates and love it
Seasoned GPS users know that the best way to get anywhere is to use direct coordinates, and of course the 2x0 can certainly accept it.
The best coordinate format to use is h ddd.ddddd since those are the easiest to get from Google Maps while planning a trip.
Why use coordinates? Because it works no matter how old the maps are in your Garmin. Coordinates never change.
Not that I would suggest doing this, but you can use a 2x0 map-less. Set the route preference to Off Road, enter in the coordinates you want to get to, and the nuvi will draw a straight line from where you are to the destination coordinates, just like a trail GPS. All you have to do is go in the direction of that arrow as best you can, and you'll eventually get there.
If you like the 2x0, buy two
It's January 2019 as I write this, and at the moment there are many Garmin nuvi 2x0 models for sale on both Amazon and eBay. I've seen ones in good condition sell for as little as $13 shipped.
These things are considered obsolete, disposable and not collectible since smartphones are mainly used for navigation these days. This is a good thing because it keeps the 2x0 nuvis nice and cheap. But that obviously won't last forever.
The only reason I use the DriveAssist 51 now is because of its built-in dashcam. Once I get a suitable separate replacement dashcam, I can then switch back to a 2x0 and once again have a nag-free GPS.
Yes, I am willing to have two things plugged in, the 2x0 and a separate dashcam, just to get a nag-free GPS back. I miss it that much.
Is it worth it?
The 2x0 is cheap, but is it worth the time to set one up?
I can only answer that with a question.
Is a nag-free GPS valuable to you?
If you answered yes, get a 2x0 and drive happy.
How to fix neck dive for guitar and bass
There are several ways to fix this problem. We'll start with the easiest first...
...but before we do, I'll explain why this happens in the first place.
Any electric guitar or bass that does not have the front strap button positioned over the 12th fret is almost certain to have neck dive issues.
If for example you look at the Fender Stratocaster or any Strat-shaped guitar, you will notice that the front strap button is directly positioned over the 12th fret. The same is true for the Fender Jazz Bass, Fender Precision Bass, Fender Jaguar Bass and Fender Mustang Bass. All those guitars and basses have the front strap button over the 12th fret, and therefore do not have neck dive.
Other guitars, including ones in Fender's own lineup, do not position the front strap button over the 12th and therefore may have neck dive.
One of the most notorious where neck dive is a problem is, of course, the SG, be it a Gibson SG or Epiphone SG. The front strap button for that guitar is positioned on the back of the body.
Other guitars that can dive slightly are the Telecaster and Les Paul. Those guitars have the front strap button on the front side of the body, but obviously nowhere near the 12th fret.
The reason I'm telling you all this before continuing is so you don't think, "Okay, maybe if I get another SG/Les Paul/Telecaster/whatever, the neck dive won't be there." No. It will still be there and always will be, so you have to do certain things to get around the fact the guitar does not have a front strap button positioned at the 12th fret and never will.
Fix #1: Strap through the belt
This fix is 100% free and very easy. Do you wear jeans? You probably do. Do you have a belt? You probably do.
Connect your strap to the front as you normally would. For the rear button, snake the strap through your belt and then to the rear strap button.
That's it. Most of the time this works fine. You may have to flip the strap end at the rear button if using a strap with a wide end flap so it doesn't twist too much through the belt, but otherwise, that's all there is to it.
Fix #2: Strap through carabiner attached to belt loop
Most people know a carabiner as a D clip. It's the thing used for camping, hiking, fishing and other purposes when you need a quick-release clip.
When you can't snake a strap through a belt or you just don't like wearing a belt, you use this instead.
Snake the guitar strap through the carabiner first. Then clip the carabiner to your belt loop. You will have to experiment to find the best position for the carabiner on the strap. It will take a little time to find out the best position but it's worth it.
Fix #3: Traditional all-leather guitar strap
A strap where the front end is wide and the rear is skinny that has all-leather construction will grip your body better. While I do firmly believe the Ernie Ball Polypro is the best strap ever made, it does slide around (as it was designed to) when wearing it while the all-leather strap does not, and that's why it works.
Other fixes I don't recommend at all but will mention anyway
Relocating the front and/or rear strap button
This is where you physically drill holes in your guitar to relocate where the strap buttons go. On the rear, you move the position up a few inches. On the front, you move the button as far forward as possible.
I'd only do this on a guitar where you absolutely don't care if it gets wrecked or not. Once you start taking away wood, there's no going back. And those that say "just add wood filler and nobody will notice" are complete idiots. Of course it will be noticed.
Adding weight
The go-to method for this "fix" is to buy a wireless pouch that attaches to the guitar strap, fill it with fishing sinkers, then position the pouch near the rear strap button.
Does this work? Yes, but adding weight will wear you down, usually at the shoulder. Adding weight is something I would never recommend doing because it's not really a fix.
Stitching Velcro to the guitar strap
Not a good solution, and doesn't work for most people. Doing this will usually just end up pulling on your shirt and not doing much to fix neck dive at all.
Garmin car GPS in 2019 and beyond
I'm a bit of a road nerd so I like this stuff. I'll be getting back to guitar/music stuff shortly, but for now, let's talk about this "obsolete" technology.
It's New Year's Eve 2018, meaning 2019 is right around the corner. I'm still using standalone GPS instead of smartphone navigation. The model I'm using currently is the Garmin DriveAssist 51 LMT-S.
I've been using GPS since 2005, and I've logged thousands of miles using nothing but Garmin GPSes. It started with StreetPilot models, then nuvi models, then the DriveAssist.
Briefly, just this year, I tried to make do with smartphone navigation. That didn't work out. Smartphones are simply not meant for cars. If the phone is mounted on the glass, it overheats from sunlight and that same sunlight makes the screen unreadable. If the phone is mounted on a vent, the glare is reduced, but then the screen shakes like crazy while driving, making the screen once again unreadable. And I'm not about to put the phone in the cup holder and listen to voice prompts, because I need to see that map.
Why do some say standalone GPS is obsolete?
Some believe smartphones are the answer to everything. They're not. See what I said above. In automotive applications, smartphones are absolutely terrible. The screen can't be read in daylight, it overheats, and/or it shakes like a leaf on a tree while driving. Useless.
Regardless of how many features smartphone navigation adds in, if the screen can't be read and the handset can't be used reliably under normal driving conditions, again, it's useless for electronic navigation while driving.
Older GPSes I keep around
I have a bunch of older Garmin GPSes I've bought over the years, but the ones I still keep updated every time there's a new map release are my nuvi 40LM and nuvi 50LM. The 40 is the 4.3" screen and the 50LM a 5".
These two models in particular, while really basic, have the best screens Garmin ever made. Even better than the DA51 mentioned above. Matte screen, very bright backlight, and polarized sunglasses friendly. For slim models, this was as good as it got, and there has been nothing Garmin has made since that's anywhere near as good.
There are times I do miss using the 50LM because the screen is so darned good on it, but I'm not giving up the dashcam I have on the DA51, so I continue using that for now.
Why do I bother keeping those older models updated? For backup purposes. The DA51 is my primary and the 50LM is the backup should the DA51 fail. If both those failed, I have the 40LM. And if for some ridiculous reason all of those failed, then I'd fall back to using my phone, but only as a last resort.
Updating maps for free if I couldn't use Garmin maps
The go-to solution for this is OpenStreetMap. I tried OSM maps a while back. They work, but are not as good as Garmin-issued maps are.
I would however still use a Garmin with OSM map data over a smartphone just so I have a screen I can read that doesn't shake while driving.
Will smartphones ever be good for use in the car for navigation?
No.
As far as usable electronic navigation is concerned, there are three choices.
The first choice is using a Garmin GPS.
Second is an Android-based car stereo that has a GPS antenna in it. While basically the same as a smartphone, it's the best application of it in the car because it DOES NOT MOVE (meaning it doesn't shake while driving), doesn't overheat and sun glare is significantly reduced. You install an "offline GPS" app to the system, load it up with map data and that's pretty much it. Not an elegant nor an easy solution, but it's an option.
Third is buying a car that has GPS navigation in it already.
Choices 2 and 3 aren't inexpensive nor easy. Choice 1, using the Garmin GPS, is still the best option to go with for electronic navigation that's actually usable.
What should Garmin do for future automotive models?
If I had any influence over what Garmin should do concerning future automotive models, this is what I would say to them:
The big sell of standalone automotive GPS these days is dashcam. Go with that. Take something like the Dash Cam 45 and add in navigation with emphases on legibility. You already have the technology. Just look back at the old StreetPilot i2, i3 and i5 models.
All anyone wants is a little box that points them in the right direction. Use a 2D-only map view with big, bright colors (adjustable, of course), big arrows for indicating direction, easy-read text and numbers and stupidly easy menu options with buttons (no touchscreen) and that's the winner right there.
Basically, it's a flip-flop from the current lineup. Instead of "GPS + Dashcam", it's now "Dashcam + GPS". It's The Little Box That Could. It captures all the dashcam footage, and also gives basic navigation similar to what the i-series StreetPilot did.
Garmin, if you make one of these, I'd probably buy one.