making peace with windows 11
Microsoft will be ending support for Windows 10 in 75 days from the day I post this, so now was the time to just get 11 installed and be done with that mess.
No, I have not switched back to Windows. I've been using Linux for over 2 years now on my main computer, I really like it, and there's no way I would go back to Windows as my daily driver.
However, on my second computer (an old Dell Latitude), I need Windows on that for two things. Updating my Garmin navigators, and the rare occasion (as in so rare it's fewer than 5 times a year) when I need to print something. I could make the printer work with Linux, but since I print so rarely, it's not worth the bother.
This is actually my second (or maybe third?) go at Win11. I hated 11 so much before that I just said screw it and went back to 10. But again, it's 75 days before support ends, so... yeah, time for 11.
My Windows 11 installation is 99.8% bone stock. The only non-stock things I did was install the OS skipping all the BitLocker stuff and using a local account. The Win11 ISO was from Microsoft directly, but I made my USB stick installer using Rufus, allowing me to skip BitLocker and the "required" Microsoft account. Aside from that, everything in the OS is bog standard.
Okay, that's not true. I did run O&O ShutUp10++ to modify some settings, but that semi-broke the Start menu in Win11. I undid all the changes, went back to bog standard after that and stayed there.
My complaints about 11 haven't changed.
I still hate the fact the taskbar cannot be moved, cannot be resized, and cannot be made smaller.
I still hate the way the right-click context menu works.
I still hate that all the settings you need to change to turn off bloat (as much as can be done) are sprawled out all over the OS, including one that's a total doozy to get to that I'll detail in a moment. There's Win11 Settings, there's legacy settings stuff using Windows 7 style windows for things that weren't integrated into Settings, there's legacy settings from as far back as Windows 2000 (or earlier!) still floating around... the whole thing is a mess. And even after you're done clicking all over the place to find every setting you need to change, you're not done, because there's also Edge browser.
Edge browser has its own settings and permissions, some of which are integrated into Windows, some not. And there's a ton of them.
It takes - and I kid you not - at least a solid hour to go through all the settings in bog standard Win11 just to disable the bloat. All the "Settings" settings, all the legacy settings, all the Edge settings. I am not kidding when I say it's a mess.
Years ago, it used to be the PC manufacturer that put all the bloat in a new computer when you bought it. Those who remember those bad old days spent a lot of time uninstalling garbage trial software. It was ridiculous.
In modern times, it's Windows itself bloating up everything with its stock installation.
Once time (and a lot of it) has been put into disabling all the bloat, Win11 then runs fairly well.
There is one positive I can give to Windows that I've probably said here before. Out of all modern operating systems that exist, Windows by far has the best legacy software support. I have software over 20 years old that will still run in modern Windows. That's basically not possible on a Mac nor in Linux. And even if ancient software doesn't run exactly correct in modern Windows, it will still, y'know, run.
Some third-party programs that are only for Windows are still the best you'll ever find. Three examples of that are Everything by voidtools (absolute best search utility), Irfanview (absolute best image viewer), and Notepad++ (absolute best text editor). And for those that would wonder why Notepad++ is the best, it's because of the macro ability. Absolutely nothing comes close to how much you can do with macros in Notepad++.
While I can mostly get the same functionality in Linux, Windows-only programs like the above are top shelf stuff, and all free.
However, this doesn't fix how stupid Windows can sometimes be. And this is where I talk about a doozy of a setting so buried that you would never find it on your own.
Ready? Here we go.
Where's the keyboard repeat rate setting in Windows 11? Go ahead, try to find it in Settings. It's not there.
To find that setting, you have to:
- Win+R to bring up the run dialog.
- Type control, then click OK for the OLD Control Panel.
- In the Control Panel, click the tiny "Category" at top right and choose "Large Icons".
- Click Keyboard and now you can adjust the repeat rate.
Yes, this is how you're supposed to adjust the keyboard repeat rate.
How do I know this? Microsoft Copilot states so verbatim if you ask about it.
Copilot also goes on to say hey, you could also perform a registry edit to do the same thing if you wanted to. Yeah, I'm sure Joe and Jane average computer user would totally be comfortable doing that, right?
It is literally impossible to get to the keyboard repeat rate setting using only the mouse. Win11 shipped this way. The keyboard is the primary interface for a computer, and Microsoft decided to just leave out any way to adjust the repeat rate in Settings.
For anything positive I could say about Windows, it's stuff like this that immediately punches it down.
But as the title of this article states, I've made my peace with Windows 11. On the second computer I have it installed on, I've accepted its awfulness. Win11 was bad out of the gate, it's still bad, that will never change, and that's just the way it is.
Whenever I encounter a dumb thing in Windows now, all I think to myself is yep, there's yet another reason I don't use this trash as my daily driver OS. I get in Win11, get whatever done I need to, then shut down that computer and go right back to Linux.
battle of the cool mist humidifiers
I said in the quest for a humidifier that doesn't suck that I would list off the other humidifiers I tried out, so here it is.
Money was spent on all this, so if you're looking to get a humidifier or replace one, this will give you some good insight on what NOT to buy.
Before I begin, I'm still using the Frida Baby 3-in-1; that hasn't changed because it's still the best of the lot. Easy carry handle, easy refill, easy cleaning, infinite-adjust control knob, and it just works. There is however one thing that I personally don't have a problem with, but others might. Tank size. You might want something larger. If so, keep reading.
I'm going to list these off from worst to second best, being the best one was the Frida.
Equate Cool Mist Humidifier
This one literally didn't last 5 minutes before it broke.
I unpacked it carefully, filled the tank halfway with cool tap water, ran it, then the tank cracked and it started leaking all over the place.
Total garbage.
Safety 1st Everyday Cool Mist Humidifier
This one actually works, but just barely as it hardly generates any mist at all. Maybe this would be good for an office cubicle, a very small bathroom, or a baby crib, but not much else.
It is also infuriating that the front "button" isn't a button but a touch point with no tactile response at all. Also notice there is no knob present. You get 3 mist settings and that's it, and there's barely a difference from one to the next.
Not total garbage, but still garbage.
Safety 1st Easy-Fill Cool Mist Humidifier
True to its word, this is easy to fill. Also, notice it has a knob, and it's infinite-adjust. Very good.
And then things go downhill from there because it does not throw a good amount of mist. This is again something only meant for small spaces.
Vicks FilterFree Cool Mist Humidifier
Now we're talking.
Out of all the humidifiers I tried (including the Frida), this is the only one that throws a lot of mist on max setting. If you can't find this at your local department store, try Amazon.
It holds a full gallon of water, and there is a space that acts as a carry handle in the back. There is a side compartment for "VapoPads" to add scent, but it's not necessary to use one. You can leave the side compartment empty and the humidifier will still work as it should, but still, nice to have the option.
The tank is made of good material and doesn't feel flimsy. Front knob is large, infinite-adjust and has a light on it to let you know the unit is on. Operation is as easy as it gets.
There are only two issues with this particular humidifier.
First, the tank is tall, so it can't be filled in a bathroom sink. You'll have to bring it to the kitchen to do that.
Second, light dripping noises are heard if you go anywhere past a 1/4 turn. This is not a flaw but rather just how the mechanism for this particular humidifier works.
The dripping noise is not loud, but there. And this is the only reason I don't use this in my bedroom. It is otherwise a solid, well-designed, good humidifier.
For a 1-gal humidifier that can truly throw some mist and can run at maximum misting for almost 3 days before needing a refill, you can't get any better than the Vicks.
However.. I'm using the Frida because it barely makes any dripping noise (basically silent), I can refill the tank in a bathroom sink, or leave the humidifier where it is, pull the top off and refill with a measuring cup, water bottle, jug or whatever.
It is convenience reasons that made the Frida win out in the end. Or more specifically, convenience for me. You might want the bigger tank and more mist. If so, then you want the Vicks. But it will make light dripping noises and there's no way around that unless you run it at the lowest setting.
the quest for a humidifier that doesn't suck
It is ridiculous what I had to go through just to find a replacement humidifier that works like it should. Mostly.
A few years back, I acquired an AquaOasis cool mist humidifier. And it was perfect...
...until they changed it.
I'll explain the changes in a moment, but the original had an infinite-adjust style adjustment knob, threw a lot of mist, ran quietly, operated on plain tap water, and did its job. That thing was amazing.
After years of use, the one I had started making weird noises. No matter what I did to try and fix it, nope, not happening. I had to replace it.
Naturally, since I had such a good experience with the first one, I bought another. And it's terrible. Runs louder with an annoying whine, the infinite-adjust is gone and replaced with a 3-click, doesn't throw anywhere near as much mist as the first one did, the tank has changed and doesn't hold as much water... it's just bad.
Now I had to find another humidifier that would actually work.
After acquiring FIVE DIFFERENT HUMIDIFIERS (and yes, I will be writing an article on that soon, because the crap I had to go through was ridiculous), I finally found one that worked for me. It's the Frida Baby 3-in-1.
What I wanted was a humidifier that:
- Ran on tap water
- Ran quietly
- Has an infinite-adjust knob
- Does not require filters just to work
- Has a decently sized tank so it can run for at least 2 days
- Is easy to refill
- Is easy to clean
- Throws a decent amount of mist
And WOW, what a tall order THAT is.
The Frida, even with it's very annoying cutesy language on the box like "all in the deets" (groan...), does mostly satisfy all my requirements.
My only complaint is that I have to run it at maximum all the time just to get some mostly-good mist out of it.
Again, I will go over all the other humidifiers I went through just to find one that doesn't suck. Actually, I found two, and I'll post that here soon.
hss guitars - i get it now
I used to hate HSS electric guitars, but now after owning one I actually like and play regularly, they do make sense...
...if designed correctly, which certain Yamaha Pacifica models are.
Pacifica was really designed correct out of the gate.
I have the second-to-lowest cost Pacifica guitar for this, the PAC112VM. The lowest cost is the PAC112V, with the only difference being that model has a rosewood fingerboard instead of maple. The highest cost model for this particular part of the series is the PAC612VIIFM (which includes the highfalutin options of Seymour Duncan pickups, Grover locking tuners, Graph Tech TUSQ nut and a Wilkinson VS50 6 vibrato bridge).
And no, the PAC612VIIFM is not the most expensive Pacifica Yamaha makes. The two highest tiers are the Standard Plus and the top of the line Professional.
Although, in all honesty, if I do buy another Pacifica in the future, it would be the two-pickup PAC311H (or maybe the 611H). That one is a humbucker + P90, and also has the split-coil option, meaning I can split the humbucker and get twangy Telecaster-like sounds out of it.
The two big problems with the vast majority of HSS guitars...
...is that the humbucker is too loud, and the potentiometer used for the volume control makes the single-coil pickups "screech" too much.
Usually it's the case where the humbucker's output dwarfs the other two single-coil pickups. This means the volume effectively "drops off a cliff" when you switch from humbucker-alone to anything else.
Humbuckers work well with a 500K potentiometer as the volume control because it brings out more treble response. Switch to anything other than humbucker-alone, and the treble is now too high.
The Pacifica thankfully mostly gets around this by having a lower output humbucker, and a volume potentiometer that for whatever reason doesn't "screech out" the single-coil pickups when in use.
I say mostly because yes, the humbucker is still louder than the single-coils, but not in a way where it dwarfs them. It's plenty usable enough, which I appreciate. And I can split it to single-coil whenever I want to get a Strat-style sound on the bridge side.
Sometimes, you just want a humbucker
I also used to hate humbuckers before getting my Pacifica PAC112VM. Prior to Pacifica, every guitar I ever bought with humbuckers just didn't sound right no matter what I tried.
Using both coils sometimes works out really nicely, and not just for rock. Going clean with a lower volume works fantastically well for soft jazz chords. No, it's obviously not the same as using an ES-335, but still, nice to have.
What I needed was the right HSS
The PAC112VM is the first HSS I've ever actually liked. Perfect? No, but darned close.
What the Pacifica has shown me more than anything else is that an HSS doesn't suck when actually designed right.
The only unfortunate part is that in the under-$1,000 range for electrics, Yamaha and Ibanez are the only two brands that make HSS axes that don't suck.
For example, the Charvel Pro-Mod DK24 HSS is great (and the truss rod adjustment at neck side is brilliant), but it's over a grand. G&L Fullerton Deluxe Legacy HSS? Also great, but also 4 figures. Suhr Classic S HSS? Again, great, and prepare for sticker shock on that one.
It's either go Yamaha, go Ibanez or put together your own custom wired HSS guitar if you want to stay under a grand.
HSS can be great, but you have to do your homework on it to get the right one. Yamaha and Ibanez thankfully make getting a good one easier without putting you in the poorhouse.
an advantage of a pacifica over a stratocaster guitar
I had to perform some minor maintenance on my Yamaha Pacifica PAC112VM guitar recently, and had a nice surprise.
What periodically happens is that after a while, either the volume or the tone controls will start developing a scratching noise whenever they're used. All electric guitars do this at some point. When it happens, this doesn't make the guitar unplayable, but it's annoying to deal with. Fortunately, you can fix this yourself.
The fix for this is to spray a little DeoxIT D5 into the potentiometer that has the scratchy noise. On the potentiometer itself will be a small cutout specifically to add lubrication. Once a little spritz of DeoxIT is sprayed in there, turn the control back and forth so the lubrication gets where it needs to go. Once the scratchy noise stops, you're done.
The Stratocaster way...
On the Stratocaster guitar, performing this simple maintenance task is a very annoying process, because to do it properly, the pick guard has to come ALL THE WAY OFF to get to the spray points of the potentiometers.
First, the strings have to be taken off first. I suppose you could loosen them, remove from the tuner posts and then reattach later, but good luck getting already-used strings to rewrap correctly on those posts, because you'll need it.
Second, ALL the screws of the pick guard have to be removed.
Third, flip back the guard to expose the potentiometers. Do this carefully, or you're guaranteed to pull a wire and break a solder connection.
Fourth, spray the DeoxIT into the potentiometer that needs it, then turn the knob that's scratchy back and forth to spread the lubrication properly...
...except now there's another problem on top of the one you're trying to fix. You can't really test whether the lubrication actually worked unless you put the guard back (still with screws out), reattach one string, tighten it enough so it makes a note, plug in the guitar, pluck string and then test to see if you still hear the scratching noise. So OKAY, put the stupid guard back temporarily, attach a string, pluck, test for scratchy noise. If the scratch is still there, guess what? REMOVE STRING AGAIN and repeat until that noise is gone.
Fifth, when mostly confident that you eliminated the scratching noise, you put the pick guard back, put back all the screws and string up.
But hang on, yet another problem may and probably will happen. Even if your test is successful, there's still the chance the scratching will return once the guitar is played in seated or standing position. YOU LOSE! GOOD DAY, SIR! DO IT ALL OVER AGAIN.
Yeah, very annoying.
Ever see a Stratocaster with a pick guard that's broken near the output jack? I know exactly why that happens. It's from the owner doing the "spray and pray" in an attempt to fix a scratchy potentiometer. Instead of properly doing the maintenance, that idiot decided to take out a few pick guard screws, bend the pick guard up, spray around the potentiometer that's scratching and hope it fixes the problem. After doing that enough times, the pick guard plastic snaps.
The Pacifica way...
Flip guitar over, loosen 3 screws for the rear plate and remove, spray DeoxIT on the potentiometer that needs it, test. If the first spray doesn't fix it 100%, flip the guitar over and spray again. Do so until scratching is gone. If any DeoxIT comes through on top where the knobs are, dab clean with a paper towel. Reattach 3 screws.
DONE.
No need to take off the strings, and the guitar can be left fully tuned to pitch while doing this. No need to remove the pick guard. You don't even need to take off either of the 2 control knobs.
That's darned convenient.
Are there any Fender Stratocaster models that aren't as annoying when going to fix a scratchy volume control?
Just one.
Fender Aerodyne Special Stratocaster. No pick guard. Controls accessed through a 4-screw rear control plate. The same applies to the Fender Aerodyne Special Stratocaster HSS.
An Aerodyne model is really the only way to get a true Fender branded Stratocaster that's actually easy to maintain.
Or just get a Pacifica PAC112V instead.