Is the Stratocaster overrated?
Is the Fender Stratocaster (I suggest the LPB color) a good guitar? Yes. Modern machining and manufacturing technologies make that possible, and it's the same the reason Squier makes such good guitars these days as well.
Personally, I think that yes, the Fender Stratocaster is an overrated guitar. Good guitar as I said above, but overrated.
Why do I think Strats are overrated?
The main reason is because too many players expect too much out of the guitar, and then get really disappointed when the guitar doesn't live up to those expectations.
For example, Strats have low-output pickups by design. They have skinny pickups mated to 250K potentiometers (meaning the volume and tone knobs) that when fed to an amplifier produces a "thin", trebly sound.
The reaction by players to this thin/trebly sound is, "Oh. I guess I need a pickup upgrade." So they go and buy higher-output pickups, then install them. But the result of that is a thin, trebly sound that's louder and noisier, but not necessarily better.
A Strat on its own cannot produce a "big" sound without a lot of help (as in a compressor). Any Strat plugged into any amp without any overdrive in use almost universally gets the same reaction by players, which is, "Gee.. this thing has no balls to it." Correct, because you're dealing with a guitar with skinny single-coil pickups in it.
In reality, what the player probably wanted was a Telecaster with its big, fat overwound rear (as in bridge) single-coil pickup, or a guitar with P90 pickups in it, or just some guitar where the single-coil pickup is physically larger with more winds on the inside.
Any Telecaster, whether a cheap Affinity, mid-grade Standard or American Standard will always "sound fatter" compared to a Strat. That big-ass overwound rear pickup really does make a difference.
Yes, you can get overwound replacement pickups for Strats, but it's just not the same. When you play a rear pickup on a Telecaster, you will probably say, "That's the sound I've been looking for!"
Am I saying that most Strat players actually want a Telecaster?
Yes.
Reasons why a Telecaster is better for most players
- No middle pickup to hit accidentally when picking or strumming.
- Volume control is away from you so you don't knock that accidentally when playing.
- No tremolo system to put the guitar out-of-tune (which on a Strat you don't use anyway because it's useless for most players).
- Rear bridge pickup has a higher output compared to a Strat.
- Rear bridge pickup actually has a tone control wired to it whereas most Strats don't.
- Front neck pickup is a mini-single with smooth, rounded edges, so even if you do smack that when picking, the pick will just roll right over it with no problem at all.
- It is a true set-it-and-forget-it guitar. The Telecaster is the kind of guitar that once set up, it does not need to be set up again for a very long time unless you switch to a much thicker string (in which you would have to readjust saddle height, redo intonation and maybe crank the truss rod a 1/4 turn to compensate for the different string tension).
- Neck is the same as the Strat. Same profile, same 9.5-inch fingerboard radius, same fret size, same amount of frets. It's the same Strat neck you already know, just mated to a Telecaster body. If you know Strat necks, you already know Tele necks. The Tele is not a guitar that's the polar opposite of a Strat. Just consider a Tele a simpler version of a Strat, so to speak.
Some players will never get used to a Strat no matter what it is
This is something not mentioned often but really needs to be said.
There are guitar players out there whose hands will never agree with the Stratocaster guitar. Or at least not the one made by Fender.
I'll put this in really simple terms. If your hands or wrists hurt when playing Strats, stop playing them. And no, throwing a bunch of a money at a more expensive Strat will not stop hand or wrist pain. If the Strat shape doesn't agree with you now, it never will.
And if the Telecaster causes the same hand or wrist pain/strain (which it might), don't play those either. Try the shorter 24.75-inch scale Les Paul or SG, or the even-shorter 24.0-inch scale Fender Jaguar or Fender Mustang. However, if the controls on the Jag or Mustang aren't to your liking, consider the American Special Mustang or a Blacktop HH Jaguar. Both those guitars are short scale, have nice-and-easy control layouts and are plug-in-and-go type of guitars. I guarantee you would be very happy with either axe.
To note, hand strain concerning guitars is not an age thing; it can happen to any player regardless of age.
Personally, I find the Jazzmaster - which does have a 25.5-inch scale length like a Strat - to be a far more comfortable player. That guitar has absolutely huge single-coil pickups, and while I love the guitar as-is, some hate the control layout. But Fender has that covered with the American Jazzmaster Special. Great guitar, offset-waist body for supremely comfortable playing, no vibrato system and a dirt simple control layout. The low-cost Squier equivalent of that is the Vintage Modified Jazzmaster Special.
Are fat-necked Strats better for older players?
Hand strain isn't an age thing, but when it comes to finger strength, that is absolutely an age thing.
For older players - which generally means guys over 50 - the fingers don't work as well as they used to. Sure, you can grip just fine, write things down with no problem and so on, but when it comes to the fingers playing fretted notes on a guitar neck, they just "don't work well". You get jittery, stuttered motions and it's enough to make you want to punch a hole in the wall out of frustration.
Some older dudes try thicker strings, but that doesn't cure the problem because the neck size is still the same.
If you're an older player that likes Strats and don't get wrist pain when playing, but do have the fingers-don't-work-very-well issue, more often than not the cure is a fat-necked Strat.
Yes, I know, you would think a thicker neck would be bad for the fingers-don't-work age issue. The opposite is true. Consider it the same as a thick vs. thin steering wheel on a car. The thicker wheel is always the preferred choice because it's just more ergonomically correct.
The two fat-neck Strat options are the Classic Series '60s Stratocaster with the "Big C" neck and the Classic Series '70s Stratocaster with the big-ass "U" shape neck.
Switching over to a fat-neck Strat will feel weird at first, but it's probably true your fingers will love it. There's a lot more wood for your hand to grab, so your fingers won't have to pinch as much, and if all goes well, you'll have very little stutter/jitter from your fingers or possibly none at all.
If the fat-neck Strat agrees with you, great. But you'll probably hate the sound of the guitar and want to swap out the pickups; that is a totally normal reaction.
What a lot of players would really like to see from Fender is modern electronics on a fat-neck Strat. But Fender doesn't do that, so you'll have to buy a fat-neck Strat and either change out the pickups and electronics yourself or just have a tech do it. Yes, this does add in extra cost, but in the end you get exactly the Strat you want. Great modern sound with an older-style fat neck.
To recap...
If you can't wrangle a good sound out of a Strat now, you never will because you've been probably trying to do it for years and never got anywhere. Try a Telecaster instead and enjoy the fat-ass overwound rear pickup. You'll like it a lot better.
If your hands hurt when playing a Strat, stop playing them and try a short-scale guitar instead.
If your hands don't hurt when playing a Strat but your fret hand fingers have a hard time fretting notes, get a fat-necked Strat.
And on a final note, something I've said before many times, know what you're buying.
Fender Stratocasters are good guitars, but they're not for everyone. And if you own one and think, "This guitar really isn't working for me...", that is not your fault. You don't "fail at guitar" if the Strat doesn't agree with you. All you need is a guitar that suits you better. Maybe that's a Telecaster. Maybe a Jaguar. Maybe something else entirely.
Go try different guitars, as in not Strats, and find one that really agrees with you. You may have to try out 10 or 20 different guitars before finding "that one", but it's worth the time because you end up being a happier guitar player.
Everything you ever wanted to know about guitar loopers
A pedal I'm considering buying is the Hotone Wally Compact Looper. The Wally basically does everything the Ditto does for less. And it looks cooler.
What does a looper pedal do?
A looper is a digital sampler that records a sample and then loops it.
Technically, a delay pedal does the same thing. And in fact, some delay pedals do double-duty as basic loopers like the DigiTech HardWire DL-8 where you can set "infinite repeats", which for all intents and purposes is looping.
Some loopers are basic while others are really advanced.
Basic vs. Advanced loopers
Basic
Basic loopers are the Wally and the Ditto. What they do is allow you to record a sample, then overdub "on top of" that sample as many times as you want and loop it.
What makes basic loopers basic is that it can only store one loop (meaning once you record a different loop, the original is erased), it has no USB for external storage, no option to save your loops for retrieval later and no daisy-chain "multitrack" capability.
Advanced
The advanced looper is, said honestly, not easy to figure out because it's a rather techy piece of equipment.
Two looper pedals that are seriously techy and powerful are the BOSS RC-3 Loop Station and the DigiTech JamMan Solo XT.
Both those pedals are very advanced in the way they do looping. Not only do they loop, but they also have a built-in simple drum machine, the ability to store loops and retrieve them later, transport sound files from the pedal to PC or laptop via USB, a massive internal memory (the Boss pedal can store up to three hours of audio), follow-along metronome light, tempo settings, etc.
Like I said, these pedals are really techy things.
DigiTech's "JamSync" technology takes it a step further and allows separate JamMan pedals to connect to each other in a pseudo-multitrack environment. Very cool that you can do that - if you can figure it all out...
...and therein lies the problem with advanced looper pedals. They are complicated. And there is no way to make them uncomplicated.
If you want a "just works" easy looper that you can figure out in less than 5 minutes, you want a Wally or a Ditto.
If you want something that has advanced features, or at bare minimum has the ability to save separate loops to retrieve later, grab an advanced looper pedal.
The best feature of the advanced looper is its ability to store and retrieve loops, no question about it. Also, it is very unlikely you will use every feature of an advanced looper since it's so technical in the way it works. But the ability to store/retrieve is worth paying for if you want a really, really fast way to capture riffs right in the pedal with no fuss at all.
Is a looper a good guitar teaching tool?
A looper is arguably one of the best guitar teaching tools you could have, because in order to use it right, you are forced to learn rhythm playing.
The more you use a looper the better your rhythm timing will get. Loopers are meant to be used for backing rhythms, so your rhythm playing will improve tremendously the more you use one.
Why do I want a looper?
My reason for wanting one is for songwriting purposes. As fast as I can come up with a riff, I can put it into the looper, play along with it and create a song quickly that way.
Yes, my R8 does have sampler/looper capability and I know how to use it. But it's not as fast or easy as a looper pedal is, hence the reason I want one.
Why do I specifically want the Wally looper? It's the best-priced proper looper for the money. The Ditto, while great, is overpriced, and doesn't even have a tempo feature like the Wally does. The Wally is not only best-priced but best-bang-for-your-buck. You can't do any better than a Wally for a good, basic looper.
Black Strat with maple fretboard options
A look of Strat I really like, which I did own at one point (more on that in a moment), is black body, white 3-ply pick guard, maple neck and fretboard.
Is this configuration of Strat easy to come by? Online, yes. In a store, no. You rarely see black Strats with a white pick guard and maple fretboard in-store because it's "too plain", but is in fact one of the coolest Strat looks you can have. Sometimes the basics just work the best.
Here are all the black-Strat-with-maple-fretboard models available. At the end will be a custom way of doing it that I'd personally do to save a few bucks for the look I want.
This is a least-to-most expensive list that's readily available to buy right now. And remember, you almost never see these in guitar stores, so you'll have to buy online to get it.
Also, one more thing. I'm skipping the signature model, "road worn"/"relic" crapola and anything that strays outside of the SSS/3-knob setup.
We start with the cheapest. I think the only bad part about the Affinity is that I don't believe it has a 3-ply pick guard. But even in 1-ply it does have the classic look.
The Standard is the one I owned before. I bought used in the hopes it was good, but it wasn't. If I bought another, it would definitely be a new one.
Standard has notable improvements over the Affinity. Basically put, everything is upgraded. Body, bridge, tuners, pickups, electronics, all of it.
My only knock against this guitar is that it's a metallic black and not gloss black. There's just a hint of metallic flake in it. Not a bad thing, but not gloss black. Still a good-looking guitar however.
After the two Squier models we make the jump right to Fender with the Mexico-made Standard model.
This particular black Strat is the one that would suit most people if you wanted a no-fuss "working man's" Strat.
Fender Classic Series '50s Stratocaster
At first glance, the '50s Strat looks identical to the Standard, but there are several things different about it.
First, 1-ply pick guard and not 3-ply, which is 1950's spec.
Second, "soft V" shape neck, which has a decidedly different feel compared to the modern C on the Standard.
Third, a rounder 7.25-inch radius compared to the flatter 9.5-inch of the Standard.
Fourth, tall/skinny "vintage" frets compared to the Standard's medium jumbo.
Fifth, vintage-style open tuners, while the Standard has sealed tuners.
Sixth, "Vintage-Style" pickups, which probably means they're more trebly in sound.
Fender Classic Series '70s Stratocaster
Lots of things change up with this one.
Big, chunky "U" shape neck, pickups where the middle is not reverse-wound (meaning all positions have 60-cycle hum), "F" style tuners, bullet truss rod, 7.25-inch radius fingerboard, vintage tall/skinny frets, 3-bolt neck plate instead of 4-bolt.
One of the best-looking, no doubt. But you have to know what you're buying into when you get one, because it really is true-to-70s spec - with one exception. Thankfully, the '70s Strat does not weigh nearly as much as a real-deal 70's Strat would. Back in that decade, Strat guitars were ridiculously heavy. Fortunately, this one isn't.
Fender American Standard Stratocaster
Thankfully, Fender offers its American Standard Strat in classic gloss black. It's the same American Standard you know, with 22-fret neck with satin urethane finish on the back, 2-point bridge and everything else that makes it an American Standard.
Fender American Vintage '56 Stratocaster
So what makes this different than a Mexico-made Classic Series '50s? A few things.
The neck shape is "thick soft V", meaning a chunky neck with a V centerline shape that's thicker than the Mexico model. Both the neck and the body are lacquer flash-coated. Electronics are also voiced slightly different and the guitar has a decidedly "true-to-1956" look, feel and sound to it.
What's the best way to get a "perfect" black Strat for cheap?
You might look at all the above options and think, "Gee.. I like black Strats, but none of the options above are anything I would go for."
I have one you would go for, but it requires minor modification to make it happen.
Buy this first:
Squier Vintage Modified '70s Stratocaster
Buy this second:
Loaded Prewired Pickguard White SSS Fender Strat Replacement Guitar Part
Put them together, and you end up with something pretty good.
No, it is not the same as the Squier Standard. The neck has a tinted color, pickups are different, tuners are different, bridge is different and all you're doing here is taking a Vintage Modified and changing black plastics to white on the body. That's it.
For most of you out there, a '70s Vintage Modified Squier Strat with white plastic treatment on the body is the perfect cheap black Strat.
How much cash can you save by going Behringer over BOSS pedals?
Fact: Most low-cost Behringer pedals are nothing more than close copies of more expensive pedals.
What that means is when when you know which pedal emulates a more popular brand, you can save a ton of money on pedal effects.
Here are a few Behringer pedals that closely emulate certain BOSS models. If you like BOSS (and who doesn't?) but are looking to save some cash, go Behringer.
BOSS: TU-3 Chromatic Tuner
Behringer equivalent: TU300 Chromatic Tuner
BOSS: MT-2 Metal Zone
Behringer equivalent: UM300 Ultra Metal
BOSS: CS-3 Compression Sustainer
Behringer equivalent: CS400 Compressor Sustainer
BOSS: RV-5 Digital Reverb
Behringer equivalent: DR600 Digital Reverb
BOSS: NS-2 Noise Suppressor
Behringer equivalent: NR300 Noise Reducer
BOSS: CH-1 SUPER Chorus
Behringer equivalent: UC200 Ultra Chorus
BOSS: BF-2 Flanger
Behringer equivalent: SF400 Super Flanger
When you're strapped for cash and need a pedal that's cheap and good, Behringer is pretty much the only name you need to know.
How much can you save? A lot. For a few of the above, the Behringer will cost $75 less than the BOSS version.
Collectible high-end Gibson electric guitars for 2014
I talk about cheap guitars a lot, but every now and then I talk about the expensive stuff. Why? Because there are a select few who do actually buy this stuff. Heck, you might be one of them.
This is obviously not all of the high-end Gibson stuff. Just a few of them. I picked the ones I personally thought were pretty cool.
With that said, here we go.
Gibson Collectors Choice 9 1959 Les Paul Believer Burst
I think flame top guitars are ridiculously overrated. However, if you're going to get one, you might as well get the best damned burst money can buy. And you really can't do better than a "believer" burst. This is the flame top that makes all other flame tops look like toys in comparison.
The rest of the guitar is built to '59 specs, and that's all you need to know. If you know vintage Les Pauls, you already know this guitar.
Would I personally buy this Paul? No. But there are those that like that super-highly-figured top stuff. This particular '59 is as good as it gets.
I've never played an L5, but I'd like to. Almost nobody carries these because Gibson doesn't make too many of them, and all command a high price tag.
The modern L5 is built to late 1950's specs. When you want something classier than a Les Paul, you get an L5.
My favorite part of the guitar is the trapeze tailpiece. It just looks cool. Well, the whole guitar looks cool, but that tailpiece (which does wrap around the side) is just a very classy touch; it's definitely meant to stay polished and shiny.
Gibson Custom 20th Anniversary 1965 Firebird VII Reissue
The Firebird is in fact my favorite Gibson electric guitar, and the Firebird VII reissue is incredible.
Why do I like this particular Firebird? For the same reason I like Fender Jazzmasters and Gretsch guitars with Bigby systems on them. This one has a Maestro vibrato system on it. And since the strings go straight to the tuning post after the nut, the tuning stability will be good.
Using a Maestro vibrato is similar to a Jazzmaster vibrato in the respect you have to get used to it, meaning it's not just a pick-up-and-play type of thing. But once you do get used to it, some seriously sweet tones come out of this thing.
Gibson Memphis 50th Anniversary 1963 ES-335
For some, this is the ES-335 they've been looking for because it hits all the right marks. It's the red guitar that's been seen thousands of times in the movies and on television. People know what this guitar is just by looking at it because it has such an iconic look to it.
The biggest complaint with early-60's ES-335 reissues is that the horns weren't right. This one does have the "slender horns" that made the original so great to begin with.
I'd personally get this one over a real-deal '63. Not just because it looks exactly like it's supposed to, but it has all the original-style electronics with two very important improvements: It's not buzzy, bongy, ringy mess of a guitar, and it won't fall apart.
Oh, there's a third reason as well. Compared to a real-deal '63, it's a bargain price.
Which would I personally buy if I had the money?
If I had the money and had to pick one, it would be either the Firebird VII or the ES335.
And to be honest, it would not be easy to choose which to go with.
The Firebird VII has the more trebly sound I like with the Maestro vibrato on it, and I would use that often.
The ES-335, while having no vibrato, is an insanely good-looking guitar, and is one of those axes that defined the rock and roll music genre because of the sound it belts out. A lot of people think it was the Les Paul that made rock what it is. No, it was the ES335 that had more influence. Way more influence. It was and still is the better guitar compared to a Paul. Maybe the Paul saw more stage time, but the 335 is what saw more studio time, and that's the one you heard more often.
Like I said, tough choice. :)