How to play fast surf music
It's not easy, but it sounds great.
When I started playing Jazzmaster guitars, I researched the history instrument and found out it first became popular as a surf music guitar. The instrument was designed for jazz, but instead launched an entirely new music genre instead that doesn't sound like jazz at all.
Now of course, the Jazzmaster isn't the only guitar "built for surf". The Stratocaster was actually first used for surf, then the Jazzmaster, then the Jaguar. There are also several other guitars that capture the surf sound.
There are two required things for surf tone and two optional things.
Required thing #1 is a rear (as in bridge) pickup with a high treble response. If it's a single-coil pickup, it's already trebly enough. If it's a dual-coil (as in humbucker), it has to be something like a TV Jones pickup, e.g. something you'd see in a Gretsch guitar.
Required thing #2 is reverb for the "drip" sound. The best reverb for this is a real reverb tank, or a really good spring reverb emulator like the BOSS FRV-1.
Optional thing #1 is a guitar that has "slow" vibrato. The reason this is optional is because there are several surf songs that don't use vibrato at all, such as Baja by The Astronauts. "Slow" vibrato is on the Jazzmaster and Jaguar. It's also on any guitar with a Bigsby vibrato system on it. Epiphone has some good Bigsby-equipped options.
Optional thing #2 is a compressor effect such as a BOSS CS-3, MXR Dyna Comp or even a cheap Behringer CS400. When you need a little boost in your notes without using overdrive, compression is the best thing to use for that.
Playing fast surf music
Surf music is basically a mix of Mexican and Middle Eastern guitar styles.
The biggest difference to my ears between Mexican/Middle Eastern and surf is the former has a subdued even flow to the music while the latter is very in-your-face and brash.
Dick Dale, the man who started the whole instrumental surf music craze, has some songs that are really, really fast. One of them is The Wedge. This is a tough song to play.
There are a few different ways to play fast notes where you strike the string up and down using a pick. The way Dick Dale does it is what any guitar teacher would call the "wrong" way, which I call a strongarm method.
Dick when playing this song strikes his strings hard and he uses his whole forearm to do it. Also, to note, Dick installs his strings upside down where the bass strings are on bottom and treble strings on top. You don't have to do this, but that's the way puts strings on a Strat.
My "modern strongarm" technique
This is still strongarm style but uses standard tuning with strings in standard locations and the picking is different.
I use light gauge 9-42 strings (Dunlop DEN0942, specifically) and a celluloid pick of medium thickness that makes a very pronounced strike when it hits the strings. I use Fender 351 usually, but recently I tried the Fender California Clear and really like that one too.
When I play fast up/down notes, it's a bit of a hybrid between the "right" (using the wrist) and "wrong" (using the forearm) way.
I can't play the way Dick does nor do I want to, because I'm not about to flip the string positions on my Jazzmaster, switch to strings that feel like bridge cables and use long forearm movements just to get a surf sound.
I find a combination of the "right" and "wrong" way to play fast notes works best for playing surf music today. It works on just about any guitar. The only guitar type it wouldn't work on is anything with a Floyd-Rose system on it. Everything else should be good, provided the rear pickup has a good treble response to it and you have some spring reverb ready, be it true or emulated.
It would actually be very difficult to play like Dick Dale on a stock Jazzmaster or Jaguar for one reason. If you play like Dick does and do the old-style strongarm thing, you'll knock the strings right out of the string saddle grooves. There are replacement bridges for Jazzes and Jags that cure this "problem", but it's only a problem for those that beat on strings like a barbarian.
In other words, don't play like a barbarian and you won't knock the strings out of the saddle grooves. If you do play like a barbarian, don't play Jazzmasters or Jaguars and stick to Stratocasters and Telecasters instead.
What can you do to play surf music fast?
My modern strongarm method uses a combination of wrist and forearm movement along with a pick with a very pronounced strike.
You can use that method, but there's also another you can try that I call "weight throwing".
Instead of picking notes strongarm style, you can alternatively use a 100% wrist movement and purposely use a very heavy pick with a smooth edge that has some real weight to it.
Now when I say "very heavy", I do mean something with some chunk to it where you can really feel the weight in your hand.
If this sounds like something you want to try, I recommend the Dunlop Big Stubby pick. These picks come in 1mm, 2mm and 3mm thicknesses. Skip the 1mm size entirely and going straight to 2mm or 3mm because you really want that chunk.
For some players, it's sometimes easier to up/down pick fast using a large, heavier pick instead of the smaller, lightweight variety. You may have muscles in your picking hand that react better to a pick with some weight to it.
Physically heavier picks may also help for those who experience numbness in the picking hand and/or wrist. Since you're literally throwing more weight around, this may help with actually feeling what's going on there more. I obviously cannot guarantee a super-heavy pick will help get any feeling back, but it's worth a try and hardly costs anything.
The good and bad of vintage size frets
You really have to know what you're in for with this fret size before buying a guitar that has them.
Take the Fender American Vintage '65 Stratocaster. Its specifications state that its fret size is "vintage-style".
What does that mean? Small frets, just like Fender (along with many other guitar companies) used to make them.
The good and bad of vintage size frets
I'll list the good stuff first and then the bad stuff.
Good: Chorders choice
Smaller frets make for a very comfortable electric guitar to chord on. Guys and gals who only play cowboy chords and never go past the 5th fret get along just fine with smaller frets.
Good: You can actually feel the fretboard wood
Something vintage size frets does allow for is the fingers to actually feel the fretboard wood; this is especially noticeable with your index finger when holding down barre chords. What you will notice is that on a modern electric with medium jumbo size (or larger) frets, all you feel on the index finger when holding a barre chord is steel from the strings. When holding the same style chord on an electric with vintage size frets, you will be able to actually feel fretboard wood between the strings with your index finger...
...and does that really matter? It does if you chord often, as it can add in an additional level of comfort when playing.
Bad: Fretting out
Vintage size frets are no-bend territory for the most part. And by that I mean string bends beyond 1 semitone. This is the #1 reason why guitar players don't use small frets.
When you buy a vintage-style electric guitar, such as the '65 Strat, what you get is small frets installed into a really round fretboard. That combination will lead straight to no-bend territory.
Yes, you can set your action low, use string vibrato and so on, but try to go past a 1 semitone bend (especially on the higher frets) and the notes will "squeak" right out. That's just the way it is.
Bad: Fret buzz
This is the #2 reason why many guitar players don't like the vintage fret size.
A perfectly set up vintage reissue Fender like the '65 Strat will buzz. Expecting a 100% vintage-spec Fender or Gibson electric to be completely buzz-free, while certainly not impossible, is unrealistic; this is something you just have to accept.
Chances are you probably watch guitar video demos on YouTube from time to time. For demos of true vintage or reissue vintage electrics, you'll notice a lot of players won't play "clean" and use overdrive on everything. Why? To specifically avoid fret buzz. Overdrive and distortion hides buzzy sounding frets very easily.
For videos on YouTube that are like that, I squarely blame the player and not the guitar. One who knows how to play on vintage size frets properly can do so with very little fret buzz heard. One who doesn't know will of course grab a pick that's 2mm thick, crank up the overdrive and bang away on the strings like an idiot.
What can you do to get along with vintage size frets better?
1. Use a thinner, flappier pick
I just tried Fender California Clear picks recently, and those are pretty darned good. Nice attack, very flappy. The medium thickness in particular is amazing.
If however your fingers sweat a lot and you need something with better grip, try Dunlop Tortex in the thinner sizes of .50mm (red) and .60mm (orange). The .73mm (yellow) is one you probably already know. That one is too thick. Try something a little thinner when playing a guitar with vintage size frets.
Why bother with thinner, flappier picks? You get good string ring with less string strike, meaning less fret buzz.
2. Use thicker strings
Since you're in no-bend territory, bump up a string size. This will require setting up your guitar again (truss rod adjustment, saddle height adjustment, and so on), but the thicker strings in combination with a thinner pick really does make a difference.
To note: This is not a string buzz cure. But it should give you a little more volume, and that helps when using a thinner pick.
3. Stop soloing and don't fear fret buzz
Here's a tidbit of info that will make you think.
A modern "perfect" guitar is the Ibanez GRX20. I'm not kidding.
That very cheap guitar has a thin neck, big frets, a fretboard with a super-flat 16-inch radius and has a pair of high-output humbuckers that, obviously, don't hum.
The GRX20 is modern electric guitar perfection. Yes, really. No fret buzz, no pickup hum, easy soloing; it's all there, and cheap! The dream has been realized! Right?
Maybe not. The guitar has the same problem with every guitar built for rock or metal. No personality. Sure, you get a guitar that totally works and does the job it's supposed to do, but the instrument doesn't inspire you to play, and neither will any other electric specifically built for rock of metal.
Then there's the Fender '65 AV Strat. Not perfect. Quite imperfect, in fact. And expensive. The pickups aren't "hot". Pickup selector positions 1, 3 and 5 will, of course, have hum noise. And there's the little frets that will buzz...
...but the guitar has loads of personality to it. Or at least it will in the hands of the right player who knows how to wield one.
If you play a '65 AV Strat or any other vintage reissue Fender, yes you will be dealing with a quirky mess of an instrument. That guitar will essentially force you to stop doing crazy soloing and come up with different ways of playing to keep the fret buzz to a minimum. And I honestly don't consider that a bad thing.
Guitars with personality and character are what make you keep playing. If you play one with little vintage size frets on it, yeah, you will have to get used to it...
...but it might end up being the most fun guitar you ever own.
Guitar of the week #78 - ESP LGL200SBT (George Lynch Signature)
This guitar is so stupid...
...so why am I featuring it? I'll tell you why in a moment. What you need to know right now is that I'm talking about the LGL200SBT model, also known as the ESP LTD GL-200 SBT George Lynch Signature.
It's totally possible that some who read this have no idea who George Lynch is, so here's a quick rundown:
George Lynch was in an '80s hair metal band called Dokken and then in his own band called Lynch Mob which to the best of my knowledge still performs regularly.
I personally take no influence from George for my personal playing style because that's just not my thing.
There are two main reasons why this guitar is stupid.
First, it just looks stupid. I remember when I first saw one of these in a guitar store a long time ago and honestly thought it was a joke. But it's not. The infamous tiger stripe is what George likes, supposedly. And that reverse "hockey stick" headstock... yuck.
Second, the guitar represents everything about guitar playing I wish would die and go away forever. Shredding, glam metal, a refusal to let the '80s go... all of that is represented by the Lynch guitar. I just hate it.
So anyway, some quick specs for you. The guitar is obviously designed to be a hard rockin', fast playin' beast. Basswood body, 3-piece neck with a thin U-shape, extra-flat 14" fretboard radius, 22 extra-jumbo size frets for easy soloing, ESP-designed pickups, Floyd-Rose Special tremolo system.
This axe is definitely designed as a soloist guitar. One knob, two pickups. How do you switch between the pickups? The lone knob is a push/pull.
I will admit that this guitar looks very nice in person. The tiger stripe finish definitely turns heads, that's for sure.
Why am I featuring this stupid guitar?
One reason. Price.
For as long as I've been playing guitar, I've seen ESP Lynch models in guitar stores, and they've always been expensive. I can remember them commanding a hefty price tag back in the day.
This one, however, sells for a very reasonable price. Dare I say, it's almost cheap.
Some guitar players have always wanted a Lynch guitar but could never afford one. Well, you can afford this one.
BONUS: "Kamikaze" model
This is the other style of guitar fans of Lynch signature models like, and it's called the GL200K model.
Same price as the Tiger Stripe version? Yes. Same price, same specs.
Which do I like better? I actually think the Kamikaze model has a cooler look to it. Not as famous (infamous?) as the Tiger Stripe, but not a bad look... not that I'd ever own one.
But hey, if you like these Lynch models, get yourself one. These are the best prices I've ever seen for these specific models. It's LTD-branded so it doesn't have the super-duper high-grade luthier quality of the ESP custom shop, but you can't expect that for the low prices these models sell for. You will however get the real deal metal machine that a Lynch signature guitar is supposed to be.
My cheap Casio watch collection
So this is where things are five-and-a-half years later.
In 2011, I unintentionally started a Casio digital watch collection. I say unintentionally because I wasn't intending on collecting watches at all. But here it is almost 5.5 years later, and now I own a bunch of them.
The one that started it all is model F-28W. This model is no longer made, but I still own the watch and will get a replacement strap for it someday.
The rest are models AE1200WH-1A (with modified insert), W93H, F-91W, A158W, A158WEA, B640WD-1A and A500WA.
Cost
Cheapest of the bunch is the F-91W bought for about $10 and the most expensive was the A500WA bought for about $29. The rest of them were between $15 and $25.
The daily wearer
The watch I wear daily is the AE1200 because I do have legitimate need for its specific features. The AE1200 has 5 alarms, and there have been days where I've used all 5. It also has a countdown timer, and I do use that regularly.
I use the W93H only as a timer for when I do my workouts. It has a countdown timer with auto-repeat. The AE1200 has a timer also, but doesn't the have auto-repeat feature.
Resin strap only
I don't wear any watch with a steel bracelet these days because Florida heat + steel bracelet is a bad combination. The bracelet sticks, marks up my skin and just looks bad even with the slightest sweat.
I've learned the hard way that leather, canvas and nylon watch straps don't work well with Florida heat either. None of them stick from sweat, but do periodically stink from it. Remember, it's fabric, and fabric soaks up liquid, which includes sweat.
The resin strap is the best for Florida heat. If the strap starts to stick to the skin from sweat, loosen one notch and you're good to go. If a lot of sweat gets on the strap, find a sink and wash the strap off. Very easy.
For a super duper cleaning, use Windex or dish soap on the strap. Works great.
What do I do with all the Casio watches I don't wear?
They stay boxed for those where I saved the boxes. The others are in a little plastic container I have. I can't sell the watches because they're really not worth anything. I haven't thrown any of them out because they all still work just fine and they hardly take up any space.
This is usually how most people end up with cheap Casio digital watch collections. It's normal to go through a bunch of different models before you find one that really works for you. For me, I decided on the AE1200 model (unless something else comes along that I like better that's cheap).
Again, I did not intend to have a Casio watch collection. It just kinda happened.
Guitar of the week #77 - Jackson Pro Series Rhoads RRT-3
The best looking V style guitar ever to exist? Yes.
Take the Jackson Pro Series Rhoads RRT-3 model; it's priced below that of a Fender American Standard Stratocaster.
I don't claim for one second that this guitar has the best sound, the best action, the best vibrato system or the best stability...
...but it is the best looking V guitar ever made.
The interesting thing about this particular look is that on any other guitar it would look terrible. White + black pinstripe + gold hardware doesn't work on any guitar except this one. I can't even tell you why it works other than it just does.
Some guitars are very age-specific. For example, a big hollow body electric like the Gretsch G2420 looks stupid in the hands on a teenager the same as any Ibanez JEM looks stupid in the hands of old guys...
...but for some strange reason, this Rhoads V dressed up as seen above escapes being tied to a specific age group.
Would I ever own one? If I had the disposable cash to spend on it, yes I would. It's just a cool guitar with a rock-and-roll attitude dressed up in a tuxedo. A weird combo, to be sure, but again, the look just works.
Also, on a final note, I have owned a Rhoads style V shape guitar before, and it is without question the best-balanced out of all the V shapes. It's lightweight and there is no neck dive. That's as good as it gets with a V shape guitar.